Boiler Automation Electrical Advice Required

[Fil]

The SCR on page 3 is only 220v ac

ebay search kicked out this option
http://www.ebay.com/itm/10000W-AC-2...672655?hash=item5afffaa3cf:g:GI4AAOSwzJ5XbQ5H for about a tenner?

 

[BREWERS DROOP]

Still only 220volt not 240v

 

[Fil]

Im not an electrician but think as long as the rated voltage difference is within 10% your fine, and the voltage on devices is generally a minimum operating voltage level. but before pulling a trigger i would double check that, however if you go the resistance controlled ssr route you dont have any problems

 

[donchiquon]

Not for pid use, that is for control with a variable resistor, not a dc voltage

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/24V-380V-...021254?hash=item1c55599fc6:g:ZvYAAOSwgQ9V1D9T

is the sort of thing you want, if you squint at the pic you will see a + and - marked on the control terminals (3 n 4) indicating DC voltage control while the one you linked to has a zigzag+ arrow symbol between the control terminals

add a 500k pot to the ssr you linked to and you have a dial up and down power controller

Ahah! Thanks again Fil. I notice that it doesn't come with a heatsink, but I think I've found a model that does...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/222122322848?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

Will this one be ok?...I've checked the terminals and they indicate DC, so that looks ok.

If so I'll order. Then I just need to find a big enough ice cream tub to put it all in :lol:

 

[Fil]

looks ok to me too.. fwiw the heatsinks can be bought separately for about £1.50 you just need a couple of m4 iirc machine screws circa 6mm long to atatch..

 

[Chippy_Tea]

Still not had an update from ink bird regarding controlling a 5.5kw element off a 30amp supply.

I have asked Inkbird to have a look at your post. :thumb:

 

[Smileyr8]

So you want the TA4-SSR version...

Hi Fil,

I found these 2 on Ebay could you take a look and see if they are the correct type, they look correct to me but could just do with a second pair of eyes..

Digital PID Temperature Controller Thermostat SSR Output ITC100VL AC 12V 24V

Digital F/C SSR Control Output (1 Alarm) PID Temperature Controller Thermostat

 

[Fil]

the 1st one is for a 12v to 24v a/c power supply, so fine if you have one already sorted but a bit of a pita if you plan to use uk mains power.

the second looks ok,

fwiw i use the sestos branded pids which seem to be a close copy of the auber pid documented in http://auberins.com/images/Manual/Manual version 3.4.pdf

http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_f....H0.Xsestos+pid.TRS0&_nkw=sestos+pid&_sacat=0

 

[Smileyr8]

the second looks ok

Thanks for the input mate, this PID stuff is a minefield if you are not 100% sure what you are after.

Going to order the second one.

 

[peebee]

Still only 220volt not 240v

Went through this in another thread, but here go:

220V? 240V? Do either actually exist in UK? The voltage is a nominal value which will swing about within defined tolerances. The UK is nominally 230V, it was changed from nominally 240V a while back (1993?) but not widely advertised because the change fell within the previous tolerances (the new tolerances where +10%, -6%; I believe the lower tolerance was to widen but not sure if it happened).

Well that's how it was drummed into me. I'm not an electrician, but I've had no reason to doubt this explanation.

 

[peebee]

Still not had an update from ink bird regarding controlling a 5.5kw element off a 30amp supply.

Shouldn't be a problem. I have 6kw elements and worked on them drawing 26-27A. But the elements (one at a time!) are on a 45A fused circuit to accommodate another element (2kw) and some other brewery bits.

There's a 100A fuse that the lecy company terminate to, so everything in the house mustn't exceed this.

 

[BREWERS DROOP]

Spoke with my electrician today,your right 240v is now 220v just like 3 phase 415v to 400v
The elements i have 5.5kw he said 5500 devide by 220v gives the amperage you require which in this case is 25amp no more and no less as it can over volt and vice versa.
He also stated its better to buy one proper controller already made from a company who deal with controllers than trying to botch several parts from China off ebay,and it will be safe,but costly and CE approved.
So i am still waiting for a company in yorkshire to get back to me to see how much.
Ditching the gas is becoming a costly route :-(

 

[BREWERS DROOP]

Shouldn't be a problem. I have 6kw elements and worked on them drawing 26-27A. But the elements (one at a time!) are on a 45A fused circuit to accommodate another element (2kw) and some other brewery bits.

There's a 100A fuse that the lecy company terminate to, so everything in the house mustn't exceed this.

What electrical control equipment do you use PB?

 

[Bigcol49]

Watts = Amps x Volts (all I remember from GCE Physics) so a 30 amp circuit can take 6.6 kW, a 45 amp circuit, 9.9 kW.

 

[Fil]

Thanks for the input mate, this PID stuff is a minefield if you are not 100% sure what you are after.

Going to order the second one.

A pid is total overkill imho unless used with herms or rims systems where the accuracy is required. But are a fun brew toy if you want one.. these things are designed to maximise efficiency in industrial sized jobs where a fraction of a degree overshoot in temperature can represent a significant fuel input and cost.

It will only work if the correct tuning parameters are applied, P I and D, its easiest to let the device perform an autotune to derive these for itself, when autotuning use the same volume you intend to brew with and heat it upto 40-50C before applying the pid in auto tune mode with your strike target temp set. IT will take longer than a heat up will take, and it may well overshoot the target a few times, just let it do its thing it may take a few hours, however once finished it should be tuned to perform to your needs and could save you a penny or two each brew on electricity costs

you can always diy your own pid controller with an arduino and the arduino PID Library

 

[BREWERS DROOP]

Agree,all i need is a good quality controller for my element so i can adjust the temperature instead of switching the element on and off manually,and to control the final boil in the hlt.

 

[Smileyr8]

A pid is total overkill imho unless used with herms or rims systems where the accuracy is required.

Probably so but I like you say it's all good brew day toys and has to be better than what I am doing currently and fingers crossed it won't require me to stand over attending the mash temperatures and stirring to normalise. I really don't care about saving a few pennies.

 

[Fil]

another option which requires a bit more diy is to hack a v1.0 stc1000 controller with the one vessel brew controller s/w.
https://github.com/matsstaff/stc1000p/blob/master/ovbsc/README.md


I like my brew toys .....

 

[peebee]

What electrical control equipment do you use PB?

Auber Instruments PIDs with some "generic" SSRs. And a whole lot of wiring you don't need know about just here! But if you want a scare: http://www.thehomebrewforum.co.uk/showthread.php?t=63149.

 

[Inkbird]

Thanks @Fil! All ordered! :thumb:

Any idea what spec of SSR will I need to pair it with to control a 1600W element? Is this the right flavour?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Solid-Sta...320536?hash=item4affb03f58:g:X04AAOSw1h5XQWiZ

Thanks!

Hi,
For the SSR,please kindly note that you need to use on PID thermosat. Usually, most of the SSR are universal. You can try Inkbird with ITC-100VH+25A/40A SSR+K sensor. Link for your reference:

ITC-100VH+25A SSR+K sensor http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00HVA23CK


ITC-100VH+40A SSR+K sensor http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00ADHNSGI

Any questions,please leave me a message.