BIAB Do I Don’t I

[MashBag]

Get a buffalo, with a knob for both brewing and bbq's

 

[Nicks90]

Accuracy of ±1°C(1.8°F). Debatable, when most are focusing on a narrow range of 63°C to 68°C for control over enzyme activity and fermentability.

That's interesting and not something I had considered before.
So as I mash at 66 or 67c for the majority of my brews, what effect would it actually have if the mash was 65 (-1) or 68 (+1) in that range?

I don't know of a online calc thing that would say the impact

 

[Sadfield]

So as I mash at 66 or 67c for the majority of my brews, what effect would it actually have if the mash was 65 (-1) or 68 (+1) in that range?

You'd be mashing with predominantly a different enzyme, from a light body beer towards a full bodied beer.

From Beersmith...

• Light Body Mash 60-65 C (140-149 F) and 5.1-5.3 pH – This optimizes the activity of beta amylase, which will result in shorter sugar chains that are highly fermentable and fewer unfermentable dextrins. This gives you a high yeast attenuation rate and lower final gravity for the beer. This will give a light refreshing body for lagers and other lighter beers.
• Medium Body Mash 67 C (153 F) and 5.2-5.5 pH – At this temperature both alpha and beta amylase will be active to a moderate degree, producing a medium body beer with plenty of fermentables but also some dextrins.
• Full Body Mash 70 C (156-158 F) and 5.3-5.6 pH – A full body mash exploits the peak alpha amylase range by hitting its sweet spot. This leaves a higher percentage of dextrins and longer starch chains and less fermentables. This gives lower attenuation and a higher final gravity for a fuller bodied beer for something like a stout or porter.

It's all a question of how much control you require. This level of accuracy is useless IF you're tweaking the mash temp a calculator like Beersmith.

 

[MashBag]

That's interesting and not something I had considered before.
So as I mash at 66 or 67c for the majority of my brews, what effect would it actually have if the mash was 65 (-1) or 68 (+1) in that range?

Generally speaking lower 60's give a dryer (more fermentable) beer. Higher more biscuit & malt flavours (less fermentable, so sweeter finish)

 

[old dog new tricks]

Quick question, I have an 8 ltr stock pot could i use that for a 4.5 ltr batch?

My thoughts are if really tight for space sparge into a FV (I have 2 of the 25 ltr plastic type) then add back in for the boil.

never made beer not even a kit so new ground for me. Happy to make a small gallon batch see how it goes.

Any advice before i try this eg would i better trying a kit first?

thanks

Alan

 

[AlBrew]

Quick question, I have an 8 ltr stock pot could i use that for a 4.5 ltr batch?

My thoughts are if really tight for space sparge into a FV (I have 2 of the 25 ltr plastic type) then add back in for the boil.

never made beer not even a kit so new ground for me. Happy to make a small gallon batch see how it goes.

Any advice before i try this eg would i better trying a kit first?

thanks

Alan

That would probably work, if you're boiling with say 5.5 litres of mash you'll probably hit 4.5l to ferment if you keep a close eye on it during the boil. You can always top up with boiled water in the FV if you end up undershooting.

I've recently made the switch from kits to AG BIAB and really liking the results, as long as you have the time to put into it it really delivers a superior end product.

My 19l stock pot gets me 16litres in the FV with a small sparge and a small top up, just wish I had bought a bigger pot now!

 

[old dog new tricks]

That would probably work, if you're boiling with say 5.5 litres of mash you'll probably hit 4.5l to ferment if you keep a close eye on it during the boil. You can always top up with boiled water in the FV if you end up undershooting.

I've recently made the switch from kits to AG BIAB and really liking the results, as long as you have the time to put into it it really delivers a superior end product.

My 19l stock pot gets me 16litres in the FV with a small sparge and a small top up, just wish I had bought a bigger pot now!

cheers just trying this as cider and wine drinker mostly but fancy trying a mexican beer for my son and guiness clone for myself.

Trying to use what i have laying about

 

[MashBag]

Excited to try it, I didn’t tell wife how much . Also got Dave lines books off of eBay had them in the 80s but redundancy prevented beer brewing or consumption

@JeffDragon7

So.. how is it going?

 

[Berry454]

I’ve always thought grain brewing was heavy on time and lots of expensive equipment, recently i saw a video by the Malt Miller on BIAB £60 for bucket with element etc.
60 minutes mash 60 minutes boil, so my questions are as follows

1 is it really that simple. Ie 2 hours to brew
2 is the result of these BIAB brews much better than kits
3 can all grain brews be done this way


Any advice would be gratefully received

TIA

I can’t even get a partial grain kit completed (no cooling) in 2 hours never mind a BIAB brew!

As said here looking at least 4 hours and often more for all gain brewing.

1.5kg extract kits - All grain is sooooo much better.
3kg extract kits - making the same recipe all grain and with extract isn’t significantly different but the all grain is still better.
Partial grain kits - Very very close to all grain. Not a significant difference at all overall.

I find partial grain brewing to be an excellent middle ground between extract kits and all grain. I’ve brewed the Dark Rock Punk IPA kits in both partial grain and all grain. Honestly couldn’t say one was better than the other by any means.