Autosparge?

[pith-head]

Hi, would any one here know if this Blichmann AutoSparge is any good and if it is, would it fit into a plastic brew bin, or in to a plastic brew heat boiler? Here is the link. http://www.the-home-brew-shop.co.uk/acatalog/Blichmann-Equipment-Auto-sparge.html#.U9rTwaOCAnc

Thanks.

 

[alby]

it's simple it works, a solution for fly sparking, should fit into plastic bucket, think it attaches to 1/2" bps thread nipple???

I used to batch sparge before I got this, fly sparking kinda increases mash tun brew length capacity and for me is't simpler to fly sparge nowadays, basically its a cistern ball valve to keep constant high level, fine for gravity water feeds or mag-pumps...

 

[chastuck]

Save yourself some money. Just loosely coil a silicon hose on top of the grain bed from the sparge inlet. Try to adjust the sparge in and out flow so that there is 1 to 2 inches of water above the grain bed. The hose will either float or just sink below the surface. The auto sparge just adds another level of complication and can be difficult to clean and is liable to blockages.

 

[pith-head]

Thanks alby and chastuck, could either of you tell me where i could get some silicon hose? I have never heard of this before, so i am kinda lost with it.

Thanks.

 

[chastuck]

You can get the hose from The Malt Miller website. Get the 21mm od. Also have a look at The Electric Brewery website to see how to sparge with the tube.

 

[alby]

The blichmann is a luxury, but like most of there stuff well thought out and saves time and effort by delivering a proven solution.

> it includes the silicone hose and has a ball or float to keep the hose from sinking

> the level/cistern valve is easy to adjust to the water inlet level you want, set it and forget it, the value is that saves you having to set/adjust the inlet flow, letting you concentrate on getting the more important sparge outlet flow right

> what is there to clean ? nought !
its just water you are running through a valve ?

> complicated not, its simple and I am sure if you had to go and source individually the bits the postage would soon overtake the cost of the blichmann (It is just a valve with a ball float for setting the level)

> block? again never had something block passing water throught it

the float arm is easily screwed on/off so it doesn't get it the way when doughing in or emptying the mash tun

the level adjust can be reversed to get finer settings on the level, not much to it

it's a luxury in life, but then again so is 'soap' !

Save yourself some money. Just loosely coil a silicon hose on top of the grain bed from the sparge inlet. Try to adjust the sparge in and out flow so that there is 1 to 2 inches of water above the grain bed. The hose will either float or just sink below the surface. The auto sparge just adds another level of complication and can be difficult to clean and is liable to blockages.

 

[chastuck]

Each to his own in brewing I guess and we all have our own preferred methods. I bought an Autosparge to use and tried it several times, but then sold it on as I just couldn't see the point of it. I found the autosparge an unnecessary complication that required extra work, extra cleaning, and sometimes clogged due to the small holes if some grain is inadvertently circulated (which it nearly always does until the mash bed settles). As a permanently installed device it also get in the way, making cleaning the mash tun more difficult.

 

[pith-head]

Thanks again guys, i am truly grateful to you both, i'll post back how i get on, but it will be a while though, i am looking to the future somewhat and it will be my first shot at brewing properly as opposed to doing a kit. I will post back with the results when i do it, i believe i may need more equipment yet anyway. Thanks again for your advice. :smile:

 

[Dads_Ale]

I believe the home brew shop also sell a rotating sparge arm that may be worth considering.
I have used the same one for over 15 years and would not be without it.

 

[pith-head]

Thanks Dads - Ale, i will check that out. Thanks.

 

[pith-head]

I believe the home brew shop also sell a rotating sparge arm that may be worth considering.
I have used the same one for over 15 years and would not be without it.

Could i just ask which sparge tool you use and where you got. Thanks again.

 

[Dads_Ale]

Could i just ask which sparge tool you use and where you got. Thanks again.

I use one similar to this
http://www.the-home-brew-shop.co.uk/acatalog/Stainless_Steel_Rotating_Sparge_Arm.html#.U-EiZ3x0yM8

Albeit mine uses a different support system. They also do one with a wider support.
As said previously I have had mine for 15 years and wouldn't just know it I managed to lose the two small silicone end stoppers during last Saturdays brewing session.

These are gravity fed so you need your HLT higher than the mash tun (or they would probably work with a pump). The flow does slow down as the level drops in the HLT so it pays to have plenty in to start with

 

[pith-head]

I use one similar to this
http://www.the-home-brew-shop.co.uk/acatalog/Stainless_Steel_Rotating_Sparge_Arm.html#.U-EiZ3x0yM8

Albeit mine uses a different support system. They also do one with a wider support.
As said previously I have had mine for 15 years and wouldn't just know it I managed to lose the two small silicone end stoppers during last Saturdays brewing session.

These are gravity fed so you need your HLT higher than the mash tun (or they would probably work with a pump). The flow does slow down as the level drops in the HLT so it pays to have plenty in to start with

Thanks Dads_Ale i'l check it out further.

 

[fisherman]

I have a lentgh of silicon pipe from my HLT with a drilled wine cork two inches from the end that slides anywhere i want it .So the pipe floats just above the bed of grain. Not very easy to justify a auto sparge on a 50 ltre brew.

 

[pith-head]

Thanks fisherman, that sounds very interesting, could i just ask what a HLT is?