are these suitable for a mash tun ??

[swaps]

Hi all,
Thinking about making a mash tun and have seen this on email http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DOG-CAT-PET-R ... 337b63e628

says they are very rigid and food grade plastic. are thise auitable for putting an element in and boiling the mash ?

Is there anywhere that does this sort of thing cheap ready made ?? I can do the job myself but if I can buy it ready made at a decent price It may be worth saving the time.

Thanks Alan

 

[Mark1964]

yes but you may need lots of insulation around it. That one looks big a 40 litre one would be large enough we have an 80 litre one we use to store grain in and thats massive. Also you would need a tap

 

[Kev888]

Yes you can mash in them (with insulation and/or RIMS/HERMS). They aren't rated for boiling temperatures, but that wouldn't be an issue for the mash - even during a mashout you're probably looking at 75-80c max.

Some people push them beyond their ratings and use them as boilers too, but thats a risk they choose to take rather than a safe recomendation.

Cheers
kev

 

[swaps]

Thanks All,
just the point about it being big, its only 30 litres. Would you go bigger ?

Alan

 

[graysalchemy]

I have the 60L ones. I have a HLT and boiler both with two kettle elements in them and never had a problem in over 2 years. I seem to remember the plastic used is rated to 100+c but I may be wrong.

If I was building again I would go stainless steel from the outset but it is more expensive.

I also use a 60l for a mash tun. A bit overkill but when you do 55L of a 1080 beer you need the space.

I also have three for fermenters.

 

[Kev888]

I seem to remember the plastic used is rated to 100+c but I may be wrong.

Not wrong - as a material it won't melt at 100c, though it will begin to soften/weaken a bit. The barrels themselves however, which are subject to uneven stress when filled with liquid, are only rated by the manufacturers to 75c 'hot fill' - which means a temporary peak that will then cool. (I've got a HDPE conical FV, which is even less uniform in terms of stress loading, and thats only rated to 55c).

As so many people get away with it though, I suspect its partly due to them making allowances for the various manufacturing variations and tolerances; there have been a couple of instances of sagging and (over time) cracking around the shoulder between base and wall, whilst other people haven't had problems at all.

Cheers
kev

 

[evanvine]

are thise auitable for putting an element in and boiling the mash ?

You don't boil the mash!
If you are considering using one as a Boiler after sparging, I see no problems once you have fitted the elements.

 

[silverbrewer]

I am considdering using massive (about 50 gallon) ones of these to be the outer cover on the insulation around my stainless equipment. Trouble is, they are brown, look a bit ugly, and make the brewery look like a farm yard :cry:

A few weeks ago I was standing in one tamping down some insulation and as I stepped out I caught my foot on the rim and the whole shebang toppled over like a stack of er...stuff...and I landed **** first on the rockery, which hurt like hell. If SWMBO had been there to see it she would still be laughing now!!!!!

Rog, Sutton Coldfield.

 

[swaps]

Thanks All,
Is there a easy eliment to use ? I would be looking to buy the complete unit. Hope fully something I could just cut the hole , push through and tight up, Bobs you uncle !! I suspect its more difficult that this so any information of parts / guides on how to do it would be great. I too would want to go the 2 element route.

Thanks Alan

 

[Kev888]

Probably the easiest to fit is a traditional style kettle element, which does pretty much as you say with no need to hack wiring or anything. Such as this one, and I've also seen them in copperkettle and Hop and grape. This is the 2.4kw IEC version - which means it takes a standard kettle lead that places like homebase do; you can still get elements that take the old round plugs but these plugs/leads are more costly and harder to find.

Some people have found it beneficial to replace the nut with a metal one to account for the extra pressure in a bigger tank, such as this or this

Cheers
Kev

 

[swaps]

Thanks Kev,
Very useful.

Alan