All set for BIAB, but no wort chiller.

[daf]

After 18 months of kits, I've got a 50l pot from The Malt Miller, with tap and hop filter. Got a thermometer too which I had fun with testing the wok ring on the hob's power...will get the water up to strike temp in around 35 minutes. I've a voile net curtain to use as the bag.

Next I got the grain and hops for a Tim Taylor Landlord....but I held off cracking on as I have no wort chiller yet.

Shall I go for it....or wait while I make a copper immersion chiller? BQ have 20m of 10mm copper.tubing for about £22...

 

[LeithR]

You can do an overnight cool, using one of these. All you do is syphon the hot wart into a sterilised cube, once full squeeze the air out of it and screw the lid on tight then leave it out in the cold overnight. It will be ready to bring into the house in the morning to com up to ambient temp. Transfer this to your FV and pitch the yeast. thats it, you are off and running!!

Good luck. :thumb:

 

[daf]

That looks good, what sort of shop sells them?

 

[31bb3]

I've heard of using pop bottles full of ice to chill just obviously be careful not to go over the top of the boiler

 

[daf]

If I had a spare freezer I'd use frozen pop bottles I guess, but there's no capacity in our fridge freezer to freeze nothing.

Are these jerry cans okay? I read that 23 litres will fit in a 20 litre one?

http://www.ampulla.co.uk/Shop-For-Plast ... 0-112-450/

 

[MyQul]

I BIAB to but don't use a wort chiller - I use Ice. I do Maxi-BIAB so can freeze my dilution water. This is of course is not an option for you doing regular BIAB. But I also use some of my 500ml coopers oxi-bar pet bottlestoo. If you don't have any you could just go to a supermarket buy some 2L bottles of water for about 20p own label. All told i've found it takes about 9-10L of ice to get near boiling wort to 19 degree C

 

[MyQul]

You can do an overnight cool, using one of these. All you do is syphon the hot wart into a sterilised cube, once full squeeze the air out of it and screw the lid on tight then leave it out in the cold overnight. It will be ready to bring into the house in the morning to com up to ambient temp. Transfer this to your FV and pitch the yeast. thats it, you are off and running!!

Good luck. :thumb:

Be warned. I considered the no chill method. Looking nto it i found DMS (an off flavour) can be produced which put me off

http://www.homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index. ... ill_Method

 

[daf]

This says otherwise.

http://www.jimsbeerkit.co.uk/forum/view ... 7&start=15

 

[MyQul]

This says otherwise.

http://www.jimsbeerkit.co.uk/forum/view ... 7&start=15

Did'nt read all the thread but If no chill is the only option you've got I'd go for it. Better than not brewing :thumb:

 

[czechneck]

I do BIAB and have no wort chiller.

What I do is empty the boiled worth into the FV, clean the mash tun, then put the FV into the clean mash tun. Then I fill it full of cold water, allow the wort to cool a bit, empty the water, fill it up etc. Takes about an hour to get it down to pitching temp.

The only difficulty is that you need to have a mash tun big enough to fit your entire FV into. But if you've got that, it's pretty straightforward.

 

[Pjam]

I make as much ice as I can store. It does cool the wort a little but amazing how quick it melts. I think it's best to stand your pot in the sink, run water from tap for a few minutes ............. then stand in the ice.

 

[rpt]

This is what I use as a no-chill cube. I don't think DMS is a problem with today's well modified malts from the UK. You might have issues with Bohemian floor malted pilsner malt, or something like that!

 

[Pjam]

This is what I use as a no-chill cube.

Make a secondary FV too :idea:

 

[balli1990]

I use exactly the same no chill cube as RPT has advertised. Excellent seal, as the wort cools the air space collapses and sucks the sides in a bit.
You know if you have an infection (haven't had one yet) because the sides will swell outwards rather than suck inwards. No need to squeeze the air out either as some people suggest the temp of the wort will ensure the cube is sanitary (sanitise before use as well obv) I lay my cube on its side for a bit to pasteurise the dead space.

Just be careful of hot side aeration when transferring to a cube.

 

[clibit]

You can stand the pot in a sink full of cold water and let the tap run slowly, or stand it in a large garden trug thingy full of cold water and change the water as it gets warm. Stirring the water around the pot helps. I still don't have a wort chiller or fermentation temp control, I've spent next to nothing on beer making equipment, but have made loads of really good AG beer. Where there's a will there's a way. I partly went for AG to avoid the high cost of kits and save money! Don't understand people waiting til they can afford to build a complete brewery and the stables for a shire horse before doing AG. Just get on with it. Sew a bag and stick some grain in it and get a thermometer for £3! The women brewsters of the medieval period didn't have brewing fridges, stc controllers, conical fermenters and wort chillers. :thumb: :drink: :

Edit: There's obviously nothing wrong with these pieces equipment, they are good things, you just don't need to wait til you have them. :!: Get started and add as you go, as you realise you really need/want something. :drink:

Stick a bag or net curtain in a pot of water at about 65C, add some grains, wrap in towels, leave an hour, lift the bag out and drain, bring to the boil, chuck hops in at various points, put the pot in the sink to cool, pour into a bucket via a sieve, sprinkle yeast at about 18-20C, put the lid on. Result: Much better beer than kits, if you sanitise well and keep an eye on the temperatures.

 

[daf]

I use exactly the same no chill cube as RPT has advertised. Excellent seal, as the wort cools the air space collapses and sucks the sides in a bit.
You know if you have an infection (haven't had one yet) because the sides will swell outwards rather than suck inwards. No need to squeeze the air out either as some people suggest the temp of the wort will ensure the cube is sanitary (sanitise before use as well obv) I lay my cube on its side for a bit to pasteurise the dead space.

Just be careful of hot side aeration when transferring to a cube.

That's been debunked...especially as oxygen in the wort is desirable.

http://forum.northernbrewer.com/viewtop ... 5&t=107842

I'll still get a silicon tube to transfer it, but only because I don't want to splash hot sugary liquid on myself!

 

[LeithR]

Hi there daf,
You can get these cubes from various sources, the link I gave you earlier I think indicated they were £2 a go but you should be able to get them for free if you approach some of your local companies, especially ones which are involved in food manufacture. Just ensure that the plastic it is made of is of "Food Quality" and has the correct marking impressed into the plastic.

 

[balli1990]

Hey daf,
Thanks for that link, have always been worried about HSA but I guess I can stop worrying now. :

 

[Duxuk]

Stick a bag or net curtain in a pot of water at about 65C, add some grains, wrap in towels, leave an hour, lift the bag out and drain, bring to the boil, chuck hops in at various points, put the pot in the sink to cool, pour into a bucket via a sieve, sprinkle yeast at about 18-20C, put the lid on. Result: Much better beer than kits, if you sanitise well and keep an eye on the temperatures.

This sounds like one of my brew days! I use a second net as the hop filter. I leave in the FV to cool, usually pitching before bed time. This year I will, however, build a chiller. I suppose I'll have to adjust my hopping to account for the lower amount of isomerisation.

 

[Scott33b]

This is probably the wrong way to brew, but I use a buffalo boiler (BIAB). After the boil I just turn off, put the lid on and leave overnight. Next morning filter into the FV (temp is usually 22)
And add yeast. Only done 2 though so not an expert by any way!