Ace micro brewer

[appositive]

I wouldnt recommend taking anything apart until you have checked to see if there is a warranty that came with it. Taking things apart generally voids the warranty.

It's good advice, thanks. I'm prone to try and fix it myself - I'm betting returning it to retailer will cost more for shipping than buying a replacement burner - but it is under warranty, and I'll kick myself if it's a bigger problem and I void the warranty.

I have enough beer to last a couple months... I'll try to navigate the warranty process. I purchased it through klarstein directly; will report back once I get their response.

 

[mgkpancake]

It's good advice, thanks. I'm prone to try and fix it myself - I'm betting returning it to retailer will cost more for shipping than buying a replacement burner - but it is under warranty, and I'll kick myself if it's a bigger problem and I void the warranty.

I have enough beer to last a couple months... I'll try to navigate the warranty process. I purchased it through klarstein directly; will report back once I get their response.

Sadly, the unit failed me too. I 'navigated' their warranty process and it was pretty easy. They didn't even hesitate after I showed them a video where I tested the element. Shot off an email explaining the whole thing and I had a box at my door in TWO days! Now to be fair, I did drill holes in it so they still let me warranty it thankfully. Interesting to know your outcome! Now that I have an extra kettle, I'll experiment with it down the road (new element, etc.) once these babies reach a year old and we lose out on our warranty I want to eventually show how it can be replaced (I have zero experience with this :mrgreen:)

Heres a video of me replacing it:

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LP0YnJ50keM&t=1s[/ame]

 

[soupdragon]

I don't like the sound of this.
Two element fails on machines only a few months old. Got mine around the same time too, how many brews have you done before the element packed up?

Cheers. Tom

 

[Chippy_Tea]

I don't like the sound of this.
Two element fails on machines only a few months old. Got mine around the same time too, how many brews have you done before the element packed up?

Cheers. Tom

I agree, several members have a GF and have had no problems let's hope these are teething problems and they get to the bottom of it or it will put potential customers off.

 

[mgkpancake]

I don't like the sound of this.
Two element fails on machines only a few months old. Got mine around the same time too, how many brews have you done before the element packed up?

Cheers. Tom

Sadly 2 batches before mine went south. They have sold hundreds so this is a very small percentage. The gentleman and I just happen to post in the forums :mrgreen::grin::grin::grin: and I happen to make videos about these things

No in all seriousness, I feel this was just a fluke. Hopefully since this is out there other people will come forward and post their thoughts too to identify the issues and get it warrantied before its up!

 

[mgkpancake]

I agree, several members have a GF and have had no problems let's hope these are teething problems and they get to the bottom of it or it will put potential customers off.

The chances are slim that its just me and the other guy. But I think just putting it out there that it is happening will help other owners hopefully.

I think every manufacturer will have their small percentage of failure. I know hundreds of other guys(facebook group) who have done 8-10 batches on theirs no problem so far. Fingers crossed. :whistle:

 

[dps51]

hi i have the Klarstein which is the like the ace system
I have done 10 brews in mine with no problems so hopefully yours is just a one off
hope you get it worked out

 

[appositive]

Sadly, the unit failed me too. I 'navigated' their warranty process and it was pretty easy. They didn't even hesitate after I showed them a video where I tested the element. Shot off an email explaining the whole thing and I had a box at my door in TWO days! Now to be fair, I did drill holes in it so they still let me warranty it thankfully. Interesting to know your outcome! Now that I have an extra kettle, I'll experiment with it down the road (new element, etc.) once these babies reach a year old and we lose out on our warranty I want to eventually show how it can be replaced (I have zero experience with this :mrgreen:)

Heres a video of me replacing it:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LP0YnJ50keM&t=1s

Thanks for this response, and thanks even more for the detailed video! That's a lot of work to produce, and it helps me out tremendously.

The retailer I bought from (hi fi tower) offered me a partial refund of 60 pounds, or suggested that I return the unit to them for replacement. The trouble is that I am in Italy, and would have to return it to the UK (or maybe Berlin?), and the return is at my own cost. This will be pricy... so I was prone to accept the offer of 60 pounds and complete the repair myself.

But seeing in your video that the burner elements are fused to the body of the kettle, it looks like I'll need the retailer's help to provide a new kettle. So I'm going to ask that they send me a new kettle unit with burners installed, as you had done, instead of giving me the money.

I don't think I'm dealing with the same people you are... so far as I can tell, the 'hi-fi tower' retailer I'm working with is effectively klarstein (or a subsidiary thereof), so this is their product (in that they have imported in bulk from China and put their brand on it). So far they have been super-polite and helpful.

Will report back when I know more. Again, MP, thanks for the video and information... I owe you a beer.

 

[chesters-mild]

Wow MGKPANCAKE that is some rig you have in Denver! :thumb:
Not so much a homebrew setup - more a microbrewery, It's bigger than my flat!
Cheers

 

[mgkpancake]

Thanks for this response, and thanks even more for the detailed video! That's a lot of work to produce, and it helps me out tremendously.

The retailer I bought from (hi fi tower) offered me a partial refund of 60 pounds, or suggested that I return the unit to them for replacement. The trouble is that I am in Italy, and would have to return it to the UK (or maybe Berlin?), and the return is at my own cost. This will be pricy... so I was prone to accept the offer of 60 pounds and complete the repair myself.

But seeing in your video that the burner elements are fused to the body of the kettle, it looks like I'll need the retailer's help to provide a new kettle. So I'm going to ask that they send me a new kettle unit with burners installed, as you had done, instead of giving me the money.

I don't think I'm dealing with the same people you are... so far as I can tell, the 'hi-fi tower' retailer I'm working with is effectively klarstein (or a subsidiary thereof), so this is their product (in that they have imported in bulk from China and put their brand on it). So far they have been super-polite and helpful.

Will report back when I know more. Again, MP, thanks for the video and information... I owe you a beer.

Hi mate! What I would do is call Ian @ Ace Trading. Shoot him an email after your phone call detailing your issues. They can send the parts out separately and I've been told is about $135 US (from the manufacturer). So I don't know what it will cost for you. Ace phone number is 01977 798888 and email is [email protected]

The only reason why I know this stuff is that I talked to the manufacturer directly and I'm sure it helped influence ACE's decision. Considering you bought from another retailer he may not help. Regardless, I know you can get the kettle separately, I bet your retailer might have access too!

I'm going to fix the broken kettle(scrape thermal paste, replace element) and make a video for everyone down the road. Partly because, I drilled the holes perfectly on this one and the new replaced one I kinda screwed up so it doesn't look as good :lol::lol:

 

[soupdragon]

I'm going to fix the broken kettle(scrape thermal paste, replace element) and make a video for everyone down the road. Partly because, I drilled the holes perfectly on this one and the new replaced one I kinda screwed up so it doesn't look as good :lol::

Now that could come in handy :thumb:

Cheers. Tom

 

[RobShamrock]

Hey Gang, waiting on delivery of mine, and I'm working on some beersmith receipes in advance to be ready to go when it arrives, anyone got the equipment profile locked in for the ACE, I think I came across it on the forum somewhere in the past couple weeks but despite my re looking cant seem to track it down again, any advice appreciated for profile settings

 

[mgkpancake]

Hey Gang, waiting on delivery of mine, and I'm working on some beersmith receipes in advance to be ready to go when it arrives, anyone got the equipment profile locked in for the ACE, I think I came across it on the forum somewhere in the past couple weeks but despite my re looking cant seem to track it down again, any advice appreciated for profile settings

https://goo.gl/photos/21JrXv8VkcKMoiqL6

That's what I use. Its based off of a grainfather profile. The volumes are off and need some tweaking but these work for me.

 

[Leyther]

Hi chaps, first post. I have one of these, bought directly from China via Alibaba, it comes from a factory called Guten. I now live in Aus and a few of us have these units now, I've only done 2 brews on mine, not had any issues with the element thankfully but wandering if its possibly caused by running the element too high for too long.

I generally program mine like this:
S1 - 73C, 1 min, 2500W - This is to heat the water before mashing in
S2 - 67C, 60min, 1500W - Mash time, I actually find setting the power higher causes the temp to fluctuate more, hence around 1500W it seems to be more stable
S3 - 78C, 15m, 2000W - Mash out if you do this step
S4 - Boiling, 60-90m, 1800w, I find this gives a nice boil

Of my two brews only had minor residue on the heating element and that was easily wiped off the paper towel.

I have encountered 1 issue with mine so far, the temperature was reading all over the place and even when the water was almost boiling it was reading 1C. I ended up taking it apart and finding that the temperature cable had come disconnected from the PCB, which could have been caused by me as I checked the pump was clean of trub after my first brew. Anyway reconected and expected that to be it, however it continued to do the same which put the brewday in jeopardy. Eventually moved the machine back into the garage and turned on and it was now working ok, hence I suspect the connection isn't great. Managed to get the brewday on without further issue, but one to keep an eye on.

On the + side I contacted the company in China immediately via Alibaba and they responded within the hour, asked me to send them video of the issue so they are willing to help out and honour their warranty.

My 2nd brew day went well, put on a double IPA but was aiming for 20L into the fermentor but ended up with only 16L, I used beersmith for the planning but obviously my equipment profile was out, hence thanks to magic pancake for posting his profile. My DIPA might end up being a barley wine, 21.8 on the refractometer!!

 

[mgkpancake]

Hi chaps, first post. I have one of these, bought directly from China via Alibaba, it comes from a factory called Guten. I now live in Aus and a few of us have these units now, I've only done 2 brews on mine, not had any issues with the element thankfully but wandering if its possibly caused by running the element too high for too long.

I generally program mine like this:
S1 - 73C, 1 min, 2500W - This is to heat the water before mashing in
S2 - 67C, 60min, 1500W - Mash time, I actually find setting the power higher causes the temp to fluctuate more, hence around 1500W it seems to be more stable
S3 - 78C, 15m, 2000W - Mash out if you do this step
S4 - Boiling, 60-90m, 1800w, I find this gives a nice boil

Of my two brews only had minor residue on the heating element and that was easily wiped off the paper towel.

I have encountered 1 issue with mine so far, the temperature was reading all over the place and even when the water was almost boiling it was reading 1C. I ended up taking it apart and finding that the temperature cable had come disconnected from the PCB, which could have been caused by me as I checked the pump was clean of trub after my first brew. Anyway reconected and expected that to be it, however it continued to do the same which put the brewday in jeopardy. Eventually moved the machine back into the garage and turned on and it was now working ok, hence I suspect the connection isn't great. Managed to get the brewday on without further issue, but one to keep an eye on.

On the + side I contacted the company in China immediately via Alibaba and they responded within the hour, asked me to send them video of the issue so they are willing to help out and honour their warranty.

My 2nd brew day went well, put on a double IPA but was aiming for 20L into the fermentor but ended up with only 16L, I used beersmith for the planning but obviously my equipment profile was out, hence thanks to magic pancake for posting his profile. My DIPA might end up being a barley wine, 21.8 on the refractometer!!

Mine gets stuck at 99C at hard rolling boil. I've swapped the sensor with a replacement from Guten so I'm going to see if that addresses it and will report back. I found that the Ace is not accurate on the inside of the kettle, its about a liter and a half off.

Good to hear your beer is going to be boozy at least :)

I've been so busy with life lately and not able to do some things. I'll keep everyone posted.

I've been wanting to do some other mods like a sight glass (I had a regular one but realized it wasn't what I wanted. Gonna hack saw the metal feed pipe and replace it with a clear high pressure hose. :lol:

Let me mess this thing up at least so you don't have to. I'll post a brew video in a couple of weeks!

 

[dps51]

so what power setting do you use to get a good rolling boil
and is that with the lid on or off
I use 1700w with lid on

 

[mgkpancake]

so what power setting do you use to get a good rolling boil
and is that with the lid on or off
I use 1700w with lid on

Ive done full on 2500w(no relay switching, full power) and seen people do 2400w (where it switches the relay on and off during). Last brew was 2200w and saw a good rolling boil (with the lid off- I never brew with lid on unless I'm mashing- funny thing: brulosophy did experiment and couldn't get people to taste the difference between lid on and lid off- but I'll stick to what science has mentioned what could happen if I did leave the lid on- precursors to dms, volatiles, etc).

I generally program mine like this:
S1 - 73C, 1 min, 2500W - This is to heat the water before mashing in
S2 - 67C, 60min, 1500W - Mash time, I actually find setting the power higher causes the temp to fluctuate more, hence around 1500W it seems to be more stable
S3 - 78C, 15m, 2000W - Mash out if you do this step
S4 - Boiling, 60-90m, 1800w, I find this gives a nice boil

^^^ This. I found on the Ace to be the going consensus on doing 2500w for 1 minutes at strike water temps and then doing mash between 1000w-1500w for the hour for starch conversions. I found mash out raises efficiency by a noticeable amount so I would recommend that.

 

[Leyther]

so what power setting do you use to get a good rolling boil
and is that with the lid on or off
I use 1700w with lid on

I made the mistake of lid on with my first brew, went to make a cuppa, came back to a garage full of slop, lesson learnt, if it can boil over it will!!.

Also I've since discovered you should not have the lid on as the boil evaporates DMS, if you have the lid on that can sit on the lid as condensate and fall back into the wort which can give you off corn flavours in your brew. Although I didn't notice that in my first brew which actually is developing into a great beer (Dr Smurto Golden Ale - its a classic Aussie recipe that a lot of people do for their first AG), saying that I only had the lid on for about 10mins.

 

[Pavros]

How do people clean their Ace after use?
Is there a special cleaner to use?

The reason I'm asking is that I suffer from asthma and have to be careful as chlorine-based cleaners may trigger an attack. I changed from VWP to Chemipro Oxi for all my plastic after an attack a couple of years ago but now that I have an Ace, I'm wondering what other people use.

My local HBS suggested either the Grainfather cleaner (which can give off chlorine fumes) or Antiformin S, which I know nothing about.

 

[Fil]

for baked on crud and calcified deposits on the element get stuck in asap with a ss scrubbie or green scubbie pad, im in a hard water area and on kettle elements can get 2mm+ of brewday crud encasing elements, But if caught soon after draining/rinsing its soft and crumbly and responds to a brief stint of elbow grease needing only a little effort to remove to reveal clean shiny metal.

i have since moved to lwd elements and only get a light dusting of crud even so it reacts just the same, if cleaned asap its simple to remove, if left for an hour or more it can set solid needing a chemical acid treatment.

citric acid is freley available but lemon juice, vinegar will both work to and can be kept in contact with elements with a tissue medium if you have a limited supply.

as for cleaning post crud removal a good rinse is all thats needed for the pot. generic unscented laundry oxi is a good soak cleaner and works well recirculatng through pump and plumbing. 1-2 scoops per 5 gallons of warm water is plenty, dont mix strong and leave to cool it can deposit hard to disolve crystals that can weld themselves to surfaces..

hot side equipment needs to be clean but not sterile, the boil takes care of all the sanitary concerns.. and you want to avoid using soaps and detergents as much as possible as they have difficult to rinse off traces that are head retention killers.. so a simple scrub off with a ss scrubbue in water is generally all the cleaning needed.. pumps and pipes with hidden surfaces you cant physically wipe however will benefit from a mild oxi solution soak/recirculation, followed by a good rinse.