30l Urn-conversion All grain Method

[MikeBullAudio]

Hello all,

I Have acquired a 30L urn that i want to use for all grain BIAB style brewing, I was just wondering if anyone already did this and their methods?

I have a couple of questions related to this aswell...
If i was to do a full volume BIAB method brew, what kind of volumes do you think i could achieve?
How much volume is required in a mash tun for 5kg of grain for example?

I understand that as a standalone boiler the volume is probably big enough for 20l batches, but currently i do not have the space/time/money to look at a coolbox style extra vessel for mashing.
Trying to keep it single vessel if at all possible/economical

sorry if this has been covered before but I couldn't find the specifics

Thanks in advance for your help guys, i haven't posted but have already learnt so much from reading these pages.

Mike

 

[cushyno]

Not doing full volume BIAB I can't say for sure. This online calculator may help: Brew in a Bag (BIAB) Calculator ~

It depends on the size of your grain bill and your willingness to stir as it approaches boil to avoid the hot break boiling over.

Just plugging your numbers into the calculate it suggests that 30L kettle and grain absorbtion of 0.9L/kg you'd need to aim for a batch size of 18L.

Some brewers go for a higher SG wort and then "liquor back" adding more water after removing the grains or at end of boil.

 

[Ronnie23]

I do just that. Started with a cooler but this is easier and I can do the same size batches. Don't really use the cooler anymore.

30l boiler
23l batches
Sparge in a separate bucket although you could do no sparge.
Recirculating mash

Any questions just ask

 

[MikeBullAudio]

Excellent to hear! What would be your typical brew day method? Just to get an idea of what volumes and when?

Mike

 

[Ronnie23]

Measure out my water the night before and treat.

Heat strike water, mash and recirculate - the Mrs makes me do it on a work day so I'm in no rush. Sometimes it'll be a few hours. Water wise, I'll use around 20l for the mash regardless of the grist. Some might argue I could put a bit more thought in.

Take bag out. Measure how much more volume I need and sparge that amount - I've got a nice bit of copper tube I use for the measurement, good but of kit really. I'll need around 27l for the boil with evaporation and trub losses for 23l in the fermenter - this will be a function of your kit to a degree but you'll figure it out.

Sparge, boil, chill and Bob's your uncle.

 

[Dogtooth]

There are a number of ways you can make your urn fit for brewing.
This guy does a good tap conversion

It's also a good idea to include a weldless thermometer or even a sight glass

There's plenty of info on BIAB brewing out there.
BIAB brewer is pretty technical & takes a lot of digesting - but has some pretty impressive software to download.
https://biabrewer.info/viewforum.php?f=47&sid=de4679cddcc41e20d529bbb275ff9810But to be honest, I'm with Ronnie23.
When it comes down to it, BIAB is about keeping brewing clear and simple.
I have a 30l urn for 19l BIAB brews (BTW, If you don't already have a bag, this guy makes really good ones BrewinaBag) but still regularly use a demijohn & 10l stockpot for 5l brews.
Why? because it's an easy way to make good quality beer from scratch & for me, as a comparative beginner, it's the best way to understand the fundamentals of brewing.

 

[pilgrimhudd]

I'm the same as ronnie and dogtooth although I have a 25l klarstein so the most I do is 17/18l batches. I have tried liquoring back in the past but can't seem to get it right and tend to overshoot. More often than not I do 10l batches now, I seem to enjoy it more and feel that you can experiment a bit more.