Do_you_realise
Active Member
Hey,
I am now one week through fermentation in my garage with the water bath and aquarium heater setup. I used a BetterBrew IPA kit with 1.5kg Coopers Light Malt Extract instead of the 1kg brewer's sugar. I will be dry hopping with Motueka and/or Chinook (no idea what Chinook is like but bought some on a whim) in the next night or two just because hops.
First query: with this kit, and considering the (hopeful) extra body provided by using LME instead of sugar... how much Motueka by weight should I dry hop with?? Is it even wise doing this with my first kit? I'm desperate to put my own twist on things sooner rather than later.
Before I dry hop I may siphon 2 or 3 bottles worth of my wort/beer(/whatever it's called at this point?!) from the FV into a cleaned/sanitised 2L Coke bottle, fit the lid lightly, and float this inside the FV to maintain the same temperature but not be affected by the hops, just so I can compare the flavour of the kit to the effect my dry hopping has had.
Second query: is this a terrible idea?!
Hoping to bottle this in a week or two - the BetterBrew packet instructions say 10 days but seeing as I've added LME perhaps I should leave it a full two weeks, or longer, depending on SG readings.
My third and final query is about the ideal conditions (hah!) to condition these bottles in. My garage has averaged about 5 celsius for the past week but the water bath has been at 19-20 celsius throughout. I could move the filled bottles inside the house or to my bedroom but the temperature there is on average still quite low and tends to swing dramatically depending on when we put the heating on, cook, or when I say "sod it" and put the electric heater on in my room.
- What is the ideal temperature for bottle conditioning an IPA kit such as this one?
- Does it matter to have a stable temperature when conditioning?
- How long should they be at temperature before moved into storage (bear in mind that storage will be in the garage, which is quite cold)?
- If a constant and accurate temperature is important I'm considering a last resort of piling my bottles up in the FV, filling it with water, and sitting the FV back in the water bath just to maintain the correct temperature. Any glaring errors with this idea?
Cheers... sorry for the long post!
I am now one week through fermentation in my garage with the water bath and aquarium heater setup. I used a BetterBrew IPA kit with 1.5kg Coopers Light Malt Extract instead of the 1kg brewer's sugar. I will be dry hopping with Motueka and/or Chinook (no idea what Chinook is like but bought some on a whim) in the next night or two just because hops.
First query: with this kit, and considering the (hopeful) extra body provided by using LME instead of sugar... how much Motueka by weight should I dry hop with?? Is it even wise doing this with my first kit? I'm desperate to put my own twist on things sooner rather than later.
Before I dry hop I may siphon 2 or 3 bottles worth of my wort/beer(/whatever it's called at this point?!) from the FV into a cleaned/sanitised 2L Coke bottle, fit the lid lightly, and float this inside the FV to maintain the same temperature but not be affected by the hops, just so I can compare the flavour of the kit to the effect my dry hopping has had.
Second query: is this a terrible idea?!
Hoping to bottle this in a week or two - the BetterBrew packet instructions say 10 days but seeing as I've added LME perhaps I should leave it a full two weeks, or longer, depending on SG readings.
My third and final query is about the ideal conditions (hah!) to condition these bottles in. My garage has averaged about 5 celsius for the past week but the water bath has been at 19-20 celsius throughout. I could move the filled bottles inside the house or to my bedroom but the temperature there is on average still quite low and tends to swing dramatically depending on when we put the heating on, cook, or when I say "sod it" and put the electric heater on in my room.
- What is the ideal temperature for bottle conditioning an IPA kit such as this one?
- Does it matter to have a stable temperature when conditioning?
- How long should they be at temperature before moved into storage (bear in mind that storage will be in the garage, which is quite cold)?
- If a constant and accurate temperature is important I'm considering a last resort of piling my bottles up in the FV, filling it with water, and sitting the FV back in the water bath just to maintain the correct temperature. Any glaring errors with this idea?
Cheers... sorry for the long post!