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Ah, youd be a scummer then :P, i dont buy any of my raw mats from 4u2brew, as they are pricey, equipment isnt bad price though, for hops and grain i use maltmiller, very good quality and a good price as well

dry hopping does not increase bitterness, boiling hops increases bitterness thats why you use a hop with a higher AA rating on the intial boil, this is to release the alpha acids and counter act the sugar sweetness of the beer, dry hopping adds flavour and aroma, that is why you use aroma hops...

Hi, welcome to the forum, i love my beers hoppy hoppy hoppy, i have a basic rule of thumb and thats 50g of leaf hops, dropped in a hopsock, weighted with marbles and dropped into the primary 1 week in, this will not add bitterness but it will give aroma and taste, if you start boiling them then...

whereabouts are you guys in Hants, im down in sunnyish fareham

is this one of these horrible chinese ones ? i have heard some horror stories about these with tales of dodgy welds, dodgy seals etc, could you return it and pay the little bit extra for an italian aeb one ?

a thin film of what ?, its not going to taste wonderful until after it has had time to mature, how careful were you when cleaning and sterilizing ?, you have to work pretty hard to kill beer but you might have got something unpleasant in there, take a picture of the film / bubble clumps and give...

gas and electric are two very different beasts, you have more control over gas but its not as efficient, electric is easy, i just use 40l hot water boilers with modified taps and bazookas on them, the only thing you have to do is change the thermal cut out, very simple. I bought Buffalo boilers...

lol, you speak for yourself, if my missus starting trying to teach me about shoes, there s a good chance I may throttle her, or myself :P

screw the kits, go ag right off the bat, thats what i did and havent looked back, i bought graham wheelers book and followed that fir the first few brews, 12 months in and im creating my own recipes and they are great (mostly...)

sounds like a horrible idea, green beer tastes like green beer, its called green for a reason, you could go with it and hope for the best, use gelatine to fine quickyl but rack out after a couple of days else youll have an unplesanst sludge at the bottom, if you are determined then try to hide...

ouch, not ideal but i normally start my yeast off at 30-35c so they will probably have survived, give them a few days to aerobically reproduce and see what happens, nothing after 48 hours and its a quick hop to the brewshop im afraid..

without wanting to sound outrageously sexist, what do you know about shoes ?....... and you expect her to know about beer, right tools for the right job :)

give it a week inside and then move it out, keep it cold for about 3 weeks and itll be just dandy

are you venting the co2 after the intial force carb ? i use 30psi at 32c for 5 days then vent and repressure to 6psi, no issues at all

fortify it with some port, if youre doing 30 bottle then chuck a bottle in prior to bottling :)

pacifica add a citrus / fruity taste, proper yummy, id avoid wild hops as some tramp has probably ****** on them :)

+1 to the strong vwp mix, itll shift anything given time, even dried blood...... !

its fine, i use it on all my cornys and fermentors, if its on a screw thread its never going to come into contact with the beer anyway.

Inverted sugar syrup can be easily made by adding roughly one gram of citric acid or ascorbic acid per kilogram of sugar. Cream of tartar (one gram per kilogram) or fresh lemon juice (10 milliliters per kilogram) may also be used. The mixture is boiled for 20 minutes to get to a temperature...

Quote: Graham Wheeler, brewing god... Graham Wheeler here: "PET bottles leak.... gas like a sieve. Oxygen diffuses through the plastic from the outside in and CO2 diffuses from the inside out.... A carbonated drink can lose 15% of it's carbonation in just four weeks.... diffusion of oxygen...