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I have a Linux box in my DMZ at home specifically for this purpose :D

Don't rob it of too much calcium . . . If you have any calcium chloride consider adding a tsp to the mash for each 5 gallons of mash water . . . If your mash water is less than 5 gallons, use a full tsp anyway.

One thing I found out about Mr Strong is that his Ninkasi Awards at the US NHC (all three of them) have been for his Meads . . . Not beers . . . . If my starter wort was exactly the same as the beer I was brewing I would grow the starter at 18-20C and then pitch the lot into the main batch at...

You are making yeast not beer! Keep the starter at room temperature, once fermented out, chill it, decant off the liquid , pitch the yeast.

I would still get a salifert kit to check the alkalinity, that way you know what it is on the day of brewing . . . and also if your Murphy report / salifert kit is accurate.

I have 4 accounts at work (all with different levels of access) password change every 28 days Rules At least 8 Characters At least 1 Number At least 1 Capital letter At least 1 lower case letter at least 1 punctuation mark No more than 4 Characters from your previous 5 passwords Password cant...

There are lots of bits in swimming pools made of stainless steel and I can assure you that it does not corrode it nor does it affect cornies. I believe that it is a different grade of stainless steel that is used for immersion in Swimming pools. The 300 series will corrode in Chlorine given a...

I've not been able to find a 21" Immersion heater to do it with my big kegs, but a 7" one works wonders on my Smaller cornies :D The big kegs get filled with boiling water straight from the Copper, then left to cool off overnight . . .I then blow the cold water out of the keg with CO2 . ...

Mechanically :twisted: :twisted: If it is truly beer stone then there is a paste that Murphys sell that will remove it . . . but it is pretty nasty stuff. Usually you would get the apprentice to climb into the FV armed with a scraper and a green scourer . . . and let them out when it is clean

Consider buying some PBW from The Home Brew Shop It really is the business when wanting to deep clean. Not really much point in a long soak in VWP . . .As after about 30 minutes you run the risk of a coating being deposited. . . .Again if you are not going for PBW then consider some unscented...

On the other hand it could have been the chef saying whatever you do don't serve that and bring it back to the kitchen now. Admittedly I would expect the chef to come to the table directly to do that if that happened.

How about Tubby's Cock Ale ?? I was being somewhat facetious, but can see that I really need to avoid making any comments or answer any questions on Cleansing and sanitising. My final comment is, that there are a lot of brewers who think everything is perfectly alright with their beers, but...

Agreed a 30 minute rest at below 64C is right in the optimum temp range for beta amylase. . . . although finishing at 1.016 is a bit high, even though Windsor is a low attenuator. I would have expected it to go down to 1.012 quite easily (As an Example 3 packets of Windsor took my Imperial stout...

Sorry I thought when you said (before adding an awful lot more to your original post) that you were saying just that. :hmm: Just what is the effective chlorine concentration on milton? Just because it's safe on baby stuff does not mean it's safe . . . and quite frankly the claim "Stays...

Chlorine based sanitisers loose effectiveness with time as the chlorine gas escapes from solution . . . this lowers the level of hypochlorus acid in the solution . . rendering less effective over time. Of course sanitising, rinsing Sealing and then rinsing/re sanitising/rinsing before use does...

I've got to say that I tend to be very disappointed by wines (Juice and hedgerow) that don't contain a decent amount of grape juice . . . and by grape juice I mean the concentrate that you get in a LHBS. Supermarket juice is completely unbalanced for making wine being made from dessert grapes...

:rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: NO

The hot water produces more water vapour, the DME absorbs water vapour and clumps . . . if you try and pour it in faster the DME hits the water sinks below it which coats the surface in water . . dissolving the DME on the surface and forming a 'shell' around the drier stuff inside . . . hence...

Yep :thumb:

Try whisking it into COLD water . . . It'll mix with no issues and will not clump . . . The heat causes the clumping