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Is your comfort zone brewing clones? If so why not make up your own recipe.

Yes, you can also get rolls.

A what?

I have the Andrew James one, it's not had a lot of use but works fine. One thing to note is that you have to use the embossed bags or it won't vacuum.

8 Gallons of a Centennial Pale. 546 Gallons

You don't need a 23L carboy but ideally you want something airtight so I'd advise against a bucket as these don't tend to be. As the gravity has dropped the fermentation is less active and it's producing less CO2 which keeps the bugs away, hence you ideally want it in something airtight with an...

read this thread re carbonating technique. I wouldn't follow the advice of your LHBS man! As joey says you need to purge the keg of oxygen after kegging. You can disconnect the gas after carbonating and if you're leak free it'll be fine. Once my kegs are in use I'll have them connected to the...

Only 2 brews so far this year, an SNPA clone this week and "Back to Amarillo" last week. 18 gallons. So forum total 448.5 gallons.

As a forum moderator with almost 3500 posts to your name you should maybe think a little harder about what you're posting. Yes your beer will ferment and yes it may taste fine, but what you're saying isn't best practice and it won't give you the best results possible. However a less experienced...

Yes, and pitch them at the temperature you intend to ferment at (12 degrees ish).

Even Famous Grouse?

Not yet.... but you've given me an idea for one of my Christmas presents!

You can pretty much make a 3 vessel shiny set up for the price of this. A version of which you'd end up with anyway. And half the fun is in making the kit! (ok I might be exaggerating slightly, but It won't be that much more)

The results are in, though how accurate they are? There were 2 things I wanted to check, how long to boil for and how low (high?) the alkalinity got. I measured my tap water at 262.5 mg/l CaCO3, then put it on to boil. I then took samples at 5,10,15,30 and 45 minutes after it reached boiling...

Like Piddle says, half a campden tablet to get rid of the chlorine/chloramine and don't worry about anything else until you're happy with the process and want to move up a notch.

Suffering as I do from very hard water you've got me interested enough to try a little experiment, once it's cooled and settled out I'll let you know.

The closest you'll get to a lager without a fermenting fridge is a Kolsch, though even that needs to fermented on the cool side (18 I believe) and you'll need to shell out on some liquid yeast. Alternately as you say a pale ale, I once tried to get close to a lager using ale yeast and ended up...

Is it the heater or the stc? Try plugging it into a socket to see if it warms up.

CRS is Carbonate Reducing Solution, it's a mix of acids which reduces the hardness of the water. Are you brewing kits or all grain? If kits then the limit of your water treatment will be the campden tablet and yes half will be enough. And no, I've not noticed any off tastes due to the water, but...

I'm just outside Norwich, I use a campden tablet to get rid of the chlorine / chloramine. Then I use a Salifert kit to check the hardness and use CRS to reduce it to the required level. I did try adding gypsum / epsom salts as recommended by the water treatment calculator but found my beers...