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Sorry just checked CML site, and its only £17 for 225g of Sabro. Still about twice as much as i would pay for any hops. Enjoy your super Sabroed pale ale, bet it's lovely clapaclapaclapa

225 grams of Sabro thats over £30 worth of hops LOL :laugh8::laugh8::laugh8:

Sabro. Dry hopped an IPA kit with 50g, described as tasting citrus, coconut, tropical. Couldnt taste any of it, and mega expensive, but did get a little certificate with them :coat:

I owned a beer shere back in the 80s, and that was a top tap, float system i didnt have any problems as i recall. Think the top taps do use more C02 .

Love to think this would work Ankou, but dont think it would. The length of tube attaching the float to the tap would not be flexable enough to drop through the beer, and the float would more then likely touch the back of the keg.

Have tried leaving them for weeks to condition, and the same thing happens. I always fine with Gelatine, so after a week the beer is crystal clear. Even toying with the idea of a top tap keg :beer1:

Hi everyone, been experimenting over the last 6 months with different hop pellets for dry hopping kits, and have noticed something quite interesting. I have been brewing the make your own IPA kits, and adding dry hops in pellet form after 7, or 8 days in the primary normally 100 grams. I have...

CML California common, and there new Kiwi pale ale yeast are both very good. :beer1:

Great job. Moded all my Kegs, and had no problems at all. The poppet relief valve is a great idea. the old beer spheres used to come fitted with a proper blow off valve, not the cheapo rubber band system.

I just have a big bowl of Aldi beans the night before i want to test a keg. Then guess what i do with the tap ashock1

If you have fitted a schrader valve just use a bike pump to test for leaks aheadbutt

?? Dont understand ?? I just brew Beer :tinhat:

Is it me , or has anybody else noticed that medium DME dissolves a lot better in water than light DME ? With the light you tend to get the big clumps that take a while to stir out, no such problem with medium. Only thing i can think of is that its coarser. Any other suggestions ?

My routine is 2 weeks in primary, after 7 day's dry hop (if required) Keg with 4-5oz priming sugar, put back in fridge, and monitor keg pressure via schrader valve. Pressure normally starts to build after 3 days. After about six days pressure normally settles at about 10psi, thats when i presume...

The only down side that i can see with the wilco barrel is the handle's. I find them pretty hard to lift when full, if they had the same handle's as the KKs they would be perfect.

Your not wrong Clint. You have to trim the shank of the KK taps, i use a fine tooth hacksaw, and take off any burrs with a stanley blade. Dead easy job, just measure it, and trim to length of the original tap.

The best tap i have is on one of my KKs. It's called an Alumasc mk5, its threaded to take sparklers, pours really nice, got it with a 2nd hand keg a few years ago, the standard black KK taps are ok, and you can get them on Ebay for about a fiver

acheers.

The wilco barrel on the right is almost full. The KK on the left is almost emptyo_O But i do have this punk ipa type clone in secondarywink... Roll on christmas:beer1:

Well i will stick to my moded kit mate, and get consistant results :laugh8: