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I just do it the once, at room temp just before I pitch the yeast, to get the OG....oh and I check the runnings dont drop below 1.008 when I'm at the end of sparging

the last few puns have had me in stitches

What kind of test kit did you invest in?

I normally have a boiler with 23L in for sparging but I rarely get through it all before the runnings drop to 1.008, after that I stop and drain the tun

I leave the lid on while it's heating toward a boil but as soon as its near boiling it comes off

One more thing, if you're a fan of British bitter styles then I'd recommend buying graham wheelers brewing British real ale. It has a massive recipe list at the back where you can pick one of your faves and attempt to clone/modify it

Its all well and good using software but I would first recommend doing some reading into the subject of hops, utilisation, AA and Ibu. I read john palmer's how to brew (its free online) then copied other recipes, tweaking slightly to experiment, you'll notice in the other recipes what the...

Aye, conversely Columbus tends to be used as a bittering hop

All great hops, in terms of a single hop brew I personally would do either centennial, cascade or Amarillo. The Greg Hughes single hop Amarillo recipe is highly regarded

Great, thanks. Well coincidentally, the diacetyl rest temp was quite close to the room carbonating temp anyway. On this occasion my ignorance may well have gone unpunished, thankfully

Ah ok, thanks for the replies! I recently had a lager which fermented at 11 then had a diacetyl raise to 18-20 then dropped to 1 and lagered for a few weeks in secondary. Now, when I came to bottle I thought the temp to use in the calc would be room temp (I.e. The temp bottles would carbonate...

Ok cheers but that would suggest it doesn't matter what temp you store at as long as you've balanced the amount of sugar with the temp of the brew at bottling. Yet ive read elsewhere that if you need more carbonation, you need to move your bottles somewhere warm? Suggesting warmer temps equates...

No need, obviously at the same temp the more sugar the more carbonation. That's not what I was asking

Ive looked at two online priming calcs which suggest that if my bottles are kept in a relatively warmer environment than normal, I'd need more sugar than if it were in a cooler environment. Is this correct? Seems counterintuitive to me

Yeh ive seen that, little clear globules of wort i think, not sure what it is but its never worried me. I assumed it was protofloc doing its job and then getting stuck to the chiller, either that or just a weird effect of rapid chilling of wort on metal

Them pesky Muslamic laws https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kjuNuqIev8M&app=desktop

???????????????eh?

Or you could save yourself a few bob and build your own mash tun using an old coolbox (I got a massive 2nd hand one off ebay for £20) and some copper tubing - £10ish from B&Q (there's plenty of how-to thread's on this forum to show you how), then all you'd need is a boiler - you could go...

It's not the pH of the water, it's the level of alkalinity in it (resistance to being turned acidic) that's the issue. I have hard water which is pH neutral but has a high level of alkalinity. I still use Star San, I just use a bit more of it than someone with soft water would (e.g. when it says...

Me too, its good and free