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the main issue with 'sankey' kegs is the spear removal AND ensuring there is no pressure within the keg before spear removal is attempted, Removing a spear with even a moderate pressure in a keg can be LETHAL! Btw beer fountains are much more easily created with sankey kegs than with cornies...

probably a lot easier to simply switch to using sankey type connectors, ebay can supply US style sankey S couplers with a built in prv for easy keg venting, but you can also just slacken off the duck bill retaining nut after disconnecting co2 with a more basic prv-less coupler, its just a bit...

the yeast that settles below the dip tube of a tap gets sucked up with the initial test pour and is easily dis-guarded, movement and josstles will of course disturb more sediment bringing it within the 'suck-range' of the dip tube.. conditioning with pressure at a low temp as per a larger SS...

a good wrap of PTFE tape overlapping the top edge of the lid thread can help, as can a smear of keg grease or vaseline (some have used KY jelly!!) on the lid oring can help make a seal on a 'dodgy ' PB.. in most cases a lid spanner is overkill imho and the torque used with one can kink/stretch...

Cheers again inkbird. a 2nd BBQ thermometer arrived yesterday, this one i passed on to a pal who likes his long carp fishing trips, fingers crossed it will stop him eating raw sausages for breakfast ;)

having sat and wathched a measure of dme solution simmer for 40 minutes before the clear solution turned cloudy with hot break while the process may start chemically at the onset of the boil period there are no indicators to a brewer that its under way, I would contend that the initial foam up...

White Labs instructional vids are to blame in part for the initial foam up = hot break myth, they propagate it at least. fwiw with a free floating hop bill letting the brew stand for 30 minutes post chilling before draining lets the hop matter settle and act as a filter to help retain a...

fermentation vessel lid seals are notoriously leaky, especially brew buckets, and co2 will find the easiest way out, you have visible signs of fermentation, and a clue that the yeast activity is heating up the brew from the differing temps tho that could be the difference in accuracy between...

imho a stock pot based build will give you the most flexibility, buy direct from the ebay.fr germen suppliers for a bargain price and 2-3day delivery delay after payment. search ebay.fr for " marmite innox" I would suggest a 50l pot too providing you with a very comfortable headroom for the...

afaik 3/8" and 5/16" beerline has almost no restriction qualities over the short lengths used by homebrewers, so if your using this post keg, when the beer hits the tap after 6ft or so of beerline it will be at virtually the same pressure as in the keg and on your reg dial. the 3/16" microline...

As a fermenting brew will generate heat through the activity of the yeast you may discover you only need to insulate your brew vessel? and if applying heat from externally via a belt or trace cable again insulation to keep as much of the radiated heat where you want it will also aid efficiency...

I have to agree with Drmick above, is your beerline running past anything warm on its way to the tap perhaps? my understanding is that any significant change in state can stimulate the catastrophic loss of all dissolved gas in a beer, the major 2 culprits are indeed a significant change in...

recycle an old pc case fan and a redundant phone charger into a cheap and easy air mover to place inside your fridge. as its the air inside the fridge that is the medium of heat transfer between the hot and cold sources and your brews adding a fan to aid the air movement will only increase the...

Inkbird Mystery Gift arrived today.. And it was a very pleasant surprise too, It included a pair of funky light up specs which will get donned next brewday ;) An Inkbird 308 without the temp probe, And A BBQ thermometer with 2 x probes ;) I only had a few minutes to open the pack...

Thats again strain dependent, yeasts used for lagers ferment at cooler temps in the range 12-16c some cooler. as said home brew lager kits are generally supplied with ale yeasts that perform in warmer temps more readily found in the quiet corners of homes without any cooling required. though...

In a pressure barrel (keg?) priming with between 80-160g of simple sucrose is sufficient for conditioning, most pressure barrels have some sort of pressure relief valve which should bleed out excess pressure over 10-12psi so adding more wouldnt be fruitful as it would probably result in the...

Generally as a rule of thumb, the kit or yeast pack if bought separately will publish an optimum temperature range for the fermentation, as this is a feature of the yeast strain selected. fermenting at the lower end of the range published will generally produce a cleaner crisper taste, while...

If you have a combi boiler which heats up hot water on demand, you can run the hot tap into the hlt to give your brewday a headstart without any worries. systems that retain a hot water tank may not be so suitable however what with drawing off half the tank etc..

one feature often glossed over of controller governed hlt heat up is that the liquor can when left at temp 'stratify' into layers of different temperature within the hlt. Colder liquor below your probe point and warmer above while spot on at the probe level. Its easily sorted with a simple stir...

Result ! :)