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before you waste any cash on expensive fermentables to prime your bottles just compare the mass of sugars used to ferment down from OG and provide flavour,(KILOGRAMS) against the mass of sugars used to prime.. (grams) Do you think that any exotic sugar used for priming will have any noticable...

hope you have a solid seal on the inner skin alone and have not attempted to make a seal between two skins without providing a solid spacer? otherwise be mindful to check for leaks of sweet wort into the void and insulation and the resulting microlife and mould that will thrive on it. also...

where do the kegs sit during conditioning? and if left at a constant co2 pressure on gas, if exposed to external temps an overnight frost and the sudden drop in temp can result in a sudden and severe overconditioning??? which seems to be the only explanation that seems to fit ??? as the beer...

however to achieve the desired result I would suggest you bypass all/most of the internal circuitry which will mean the loss of the inside light.. and simply provide the compressor with a switched feed from your stc1000 controller. the diagram in the 1st post indicates that the blue/neutral...

you can serve even a highly conditioned beer at a slightly warmer temp if you adjust the serving pressure and your post keg pressure reduction to match. a kegging chart is a good reference...

Odd way to measure co2 ? by volume without specifying the containment pressure? though im far from any sort of expert, and it may well be a standard metric for welders?? .. the 20l bottle looks smaller than a 6.5kg bottle? Home delivery is certainly convenient but it looks like your gonna...

my experience is limited to a basic welders reg and my britvic 3reg board, Neither of which leak gas when turned down/off.. and both close with a positive termination (no loose turns !!) I would be on the phone to the supplier pronto myself... my limited understanding is that there are 2...

Lookin Good Bri..

no harm in cracking a sample early to taste test ;) conditioning takes a week or two but maturing can take longer. Generally as a rule of thumb a beer benefits from a minimum of a week per every 10 gravity points the OG is above the FG, And the darker and more specialty grain and adjucnt full...

depending on the yeast if the brew chilled down sufficiently to trigger the yeast into going dormant, they may take thier time waking back up when back upto optimum temp again, so give it a week once its warmed back up to provide evidence of fermentation before you intervene imho.

If you had a dodgy seal somewhere beer would leak out under presure making a mess. so the gas has to come from the beer. Assuming the beer isnt severely over conditioned?? in which case a few cycles of vent n sheke may be needed over a day or 2 depending on just how overconditioned it is...

#1 Beer boils @ higher temps 107c+ depending on the OG primeraly. kettle elements should be fine in a diy kettle, they do require a bit more elbow grease to clean back to shiny metal post brew but if attacked asap post boil you can catch the calcium build up while its still soft and can be...

check out resistance controlled SSRs, all you need is an electric guitar volume knob aka 500kohm linear potentiometer to hook up across the 2 control terminals of a SSR, a heatsink, and box with a £10 AMP/VOLT meter and you have a simple power controller with a measured power display allowing...

Someone has dibs for collection next week so no longer available..

buy one of those and have LOTS of issues imho.. some time ago i thought it might be a plan to try and filter a beer using 2 x 10" filters and 2 x spun nylon filters 1 x 5 micron and 1 x 1 micron. thinking it would be worth the cost of 2 x filters for a batch of 4-5 kegs if the result was...

2 4 year old plants uprooted without delicate care. 1 Challenger 2 EKG free for collection, posted elswhere too..

Its not difficult to fabricate a 100l/60, 70, 0r 80l/100l ssystem from Stainless steel stockpots and thermopots. its been a while since i built my 3v system but £600 is a reasonable budget for all you need (top shelf parts..) from trusted uk suppliers (tho buy the pots from an ebay,fr seller as...

Well since you ask.. imho simplify the gran bill go Pale malt and perhaps a 1/4 of the suggested cornflakes ( but only if u jel em first - soak/heat over 85c) and then add in some oat husks/rice hulls to help with the drainage Then double the long boil hops, and forget the fruit peel you...

Sounds good;) congrats, it may be your taste is broader than some ;), or you have hit the sweet spot so far with brewing 2x in a row and are well on the way to becoming a master brewer, or beginners luck??, who cares if the beers good.. And Taste is totally subjective after all.. Just dont...

Yes reuse the screwcaps. just use chemical sanitation, and dont try to use heat, off the boil water will destroy the form of a thermally set pet bottle.. if short most brewshops sell replacement screwcaps. And these must be one of the most standard packaging items as the screwcaps are...