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Three more for the list : - Old Luxter's Barn Ale and IPA, I think it's the primary strain. Cultures up easily but not used it yet. - Wiper and True. All of their beers that I've tried have a good layer of sticky sediment that's easy to recover - Butts Brewery Barbus Barbus. Again a nice...

The trouble with adding amylase in the fermentation bin is that it's an enzyme that is not destroyed by the process of converting the sugars. So, given time, any amount will convert all of the sugars in the beer. Adding more will just speed the process up. If you want an amount of residual...

Yes it does give a large amount of unfermentables but in the low alcohol beer these are very dilute. It's a while since I did it but I aim for an OG of 1.025, FG of 1.010, using 2-2.2Kg of malt collecting only the first runnings and then diluting to desired pre-boil volume. I make 20 litres at...

Agreed, I'd take out the hops and then cold crash. I cold crash at 1C and leave for 3-5 days. Then I rack off to another fermentation bin, add gelatine finings and leave for 10-14 days to get rid of any chill haze. Then I keg. That way I find I get very clear beer and no sediment in the keg so...

when I make low alcohol beers, I mash at 72C to give a lot of flavour from the small amount of malt in use. I know of a local commercial brewery that does that same thing but uses invert sugar to produce the alcohol. Or at least that's what they told me on the tour and why I tried 72C

fast cooling of your boiled wort along with irish moss will cause a cold break of proteins etc. That will give a clearer wort going into your fermenter but chill haze is normally removed after fermentation by chilling the beer to cause the haze and then using finings such as gelatine, filtering...

Well what is worth? It's worth what someone will pay for it. Personally I'd give you £5-10, to me it's worth no more but to others it may be worth more. Fuller's yeast is readily available from 1845, Bengal Lancer and can be bought commercially from White Labs and Wyeast so it's not really...

Your plan to use Windsor should work well. There's a thread on here from last week or so where someone's beer stopped at 60% attenuation using Windsor. It wasn't what he wanted but if 60% is what you're looking for then Windsor will do. I've not used it myself but I have heard that it's hard...

I used one of those 25W heater belts and an inkbird controller in the corner of my kitchen. It worked very well and the equipment got moved into my brewing freezer when I got it a few months later. In the winter I needed to put something underneath to get the FV off the concrete floor to keep...

I've accidentally done exactly this. I pitched S04 into an IPA that was a little stronger then anticipated at 1.074, It fermented to 1.019 and stopped so I pitched Mangrove Jack's M29 French Saison and it's down to 1.003 now. Too early to tell what it tastes like though.

I've got a brew in the FV right now that's slowly fermenting and dropping by about 1 point a day (1.004 yesterday, 1.003 today). It's been going for 26 days now. 24 hours with no visible activity is probably not the end of fermentation. I'd wait until you get 3 days or more at the same SG

Hey Petrolhead, Dutto's guide is spot on. I have one of these controlling a small chest freezer in a shed. I set the Band Width to +/- 1C , tuned the alarms off and left the other settings at default and it's worked really well for me throughout this last cold winter and hot summer

depending on the OG and temperature a lot of the fermentation might've been done in the first few days but it could carry on for some time afterwards. I've got a beer in my fermenter at the moment. It took 6 days to drop from 1.074 to 1.021 but a further 13 days later it's still going slowly and...

you're bottling after a 4 day fermentation? What was your OG and FG? How did you know that the fermentation had finished?

garden hose is a no no for brewing. They can impart all sorts of plasticy, off tastes into the water, not to mention chemicals that you probably don't want to drink. You can buy food grade hose but it's not that cheap. If you're filling directly off the tap with no hose you might be ok, it...

I know of a micro brewery that used some second hand blue barrels for conditioning. It worked fine except that the taste of the previous contents was impossible to get rid of (it was orange juice). So I wonder if, although food safe, there's something about that plastic that stuff gets stuck in...

Just a thought, you're not using a hose of any sort to dispense your initial water before mixing the kit are you? Unless it's food grade hose that can introduce a horrible plastic taste.

US-05 can be slow to flocculate in my experience. As the others have said, give it some time to clear. Your recipe sounds fine too. I've just made a beer with almost exactly the same hop addition timings.

Clint's right, providing it's air tight, pressurised and you were careful about not introducing oxygen beer will keep for months in a plastic barrel. It's just that a lot of people aren't careful about keeping oxygen away from the beer and a lot of plastic barrels will lose pressure over time...

I find Nottingham and S04 to be similar but S04 will attenuate less than Nottingham so will leave a sweeter beer with more mouthfeel than Nottingham. I also suspect that Nottingham can ferment some of the longer chain sugars that come from higher temperature mashing whilst S04 cannot. To give...