Search results

pvc will often go cloudy when it’s been in contact with sanitiser etc. Bit late in the day but I do similar size brews to the OP - my solution is a 9.5L corny, force carb the lot and bottle what doesn’t get drunk before the next brew is ready to carb. You could force carb the lot and then fill...

Have you calculated boil off? Asking as I aim for 10-11L in the fermenter as well but I'll use a total of 19-20L depending on the grain bill (you'll lose water into the grain too).

The advantage with adding so many brews into a barrel should be that those brews don't need to be as perfect as they're being diluted by all the others - think pebble in pond vs pebble in ocean here. You could make it easier by not having an overly complicated recipe. In my mind you'd sanitise...

If you do the calculations you could make a really strong ale and add water to dilute it back, problem with this could be that you end up with a really 'thin' ale. You might be better off doing a number of brews and adding them all into the same FV (barrel), which would be dependent on your...

I write the brew number on the cap using a permanent marker. Sometimes I'll create a label and stick it on with milk, which means it comes off really easily. Would suggest a chalk pen for writing on the bottle.

I use a 90 degree elbow out of the FV lid and a blow-off tube into a pint of sanitiser. Does the same job as an airlock at a fraction of the height. Also have a heater under the bottom shelf in my brew-fridge, not had any off flavours as yet, so in my experience the impact of a hotspot is minimal.

Hi, hope your first brew's going well, what beer did you make? For priming, I make up a sugar solution and use a Calpol syringe to get the correct measure into each bottle. Saves stirring up the trub at the bottom of the FV and also ensures each bottle gets the same. Plenty of people add it to...

Fine to open up the FV for that kind of thing, I do it when dry-hopping. Not so much for gravity readings now I've added a tap to the FV.

Have got a WC IPA that's almost ready to drink and a Pilsner coming to the end of fermentation at the mo. After that the list so far is: Something Belgian (Dubbel/Tripel) Grown-up root-beer for a mate Something with Kviek, maybe using Vic Secret hops just so I can call it Kviektoria's Secret...

As I always say - impatience is the brewers worst enemy. Leave it longer to carb up and you should be fine.

I use OneNote. Each brew has it's own page and I can add all the notes and pictures I want and it's accessible on my phone and computer.

I made a maple stout a couple of months back, while a lovely beer the maple flavour did get lost. It was both a boil and flameout addition. If I make it again I’d probably also use it for priming too.

Personally I add the 0 min hops and give it 5 minutes before I start cooling. That’s not based on any science though! Once cool, it stays in the kettle with the rest of the trub.

I’ve been using half a tablet but that’s probably too much (cauliflowers in the current FV). I’m liking the idea of crushing them and then chucking in a weight, much more economical!

I've been using some small bags to put my hops in which contains them nicely and greatly reduces the need to filter what's going through the tap. I've been considering the likes of a hop spider which is a fancier version of what I'm doing now. My biggest issue's still setting up my Beersmith...

Other than it being a faff I don't see why you couldn't do it. But then, I don't know how much more you'd gain either.

If it’s tasting ok then it’s definitely worth putting in the barrel and seeing how it turns out. That’s not a yeast I’ve used, could it just be a yeast raft?

Of the two I’d use US-05, but I think you’d be fine with either.

would solder work?

Looking good, it’s a great hobby to have.