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An “infection” (more accurately a colonisation of the wort by wild yeast or lactobacillus) sounds pretty unlikely, as you pitched a good amount of yeast and the fermentation got off nice and fast. So I’d lean towards it being more likely something to do with the fermentation conditions or wort...

I don’t do kits, but why not get a pale IPA kit and just sub in some Citra?

Yes that’s the typical way I think - although in reality you would be fine with 1/4” into the manifold unless you plan to pour from more than one keg at the same time … or if the manifold is a long way from the regulator

I second what other have said above… always leave the beer for a couple of weeks, regardless of whether the bubbling has stopped. There can be a lot of stuff going on ‘silently’ in there that removes ‘off’ flavours (and also it gives the beer time to clear down a bit)

The thing I’m never terribly convinced I’m cleaning sufficiently is the inside of the beer lines… I always pump hot cleaner through it for ten mins or so after a brewday, but I suspect in reality you get a bio-film building up over time. I should probably replace it more often than I do!

^^ this!! I used to just scrub my Cornies out with Percarbonate then pressurise the keg and blast it out through the disconnects and prv; and to be fair I never had a problem - but recently I started removing the posts and dip tube, and soaking them separately. It actually makes the keg a lot...

That was my experience with Cali - it did calm down a bit eventually but I was never quite sure about it… my friends seemed happy to drink it though 🤣

This thread has just reminded me that my local deli owner was shocked last year when a can of beer from brewery “Mad Squirrel” had popped on the shelf (very messy). I didn’t know about diastaticus at the time, but sounds very likely that was the cause.

Ten years later (2018), in that report I linked above, Wyeast seemed to have changed their minds: Although I rather suspect that this is more about limiting their legal risk than actual necessity (given the number of law suits against breweries for “exploding bottles” at the time )

Clever!

Yes, just think of it as being like a big bottle. It’s not the lack of being disturbed that matures the flavours, it’s the time :-) And I second @Graz: you probably want to leave it a bit longer than two weeks to notice a difference. In general at least four for a 1.040 beer, five for a 1.050...

On the beer side of things, I use stem reducers to go straight from my corny posts into 3/16” lines that then go all the way to the taps - but if that distance is more than about 75cm you might need to do part of the run in 1/4” or 3/8” to avoid an excessively slow pour

Yes 3/16 makes perfect sense for gas lines (to individual kegs, at least). The viscosity of gas is so much lower than beer, that the gas will always be able to flow in faster than the beer can flow out. The exception might be that you might want to use something slightly bigger, like 1/4”, for...

I blame it on the pixies. The same ones that hide my glasses every time I put them down athumb..

TMM are where I get almost all my stuff, and I really like their service athumb.. I’ve used about 50/50 white labs and Wyeast (smack pack), and occasionally Omega, and I’m not particularly fussed about the smack packs - I find the way they swell up gives me a bit of extra reassurance that the...

I was about to say the same thing: at normal serving pressures you’ll need at most about 75cm to a metre of 3/16” to get the flow rate down, and you should do the rest of your pipe run in 3/8 or quarter inch. In my experience flow control taps don’t work very well by the way, but YMMV.

Totally agree - although I think if it were me, I’d probably shell out for fresh yeast wink... I don’t really know but I should think it’s almost impossible for us to maintain sterile conditions as home brewers for long after boiling, given the almost universal presence of airborne spores and...

Funnily enough, it’s only as my Bière de Garde is reaching what I’d normally call the “end” of fermentation (1.010) that I’ve learned about this aspect of diastaticus-positive yeast (I’m using WY-3711). Hmmm. Wyeast published some a report a few years ago titled “understanding diastaticus” but...

Looks like a nice pint :-) I’ve never bothered much about oxidation although I am fairly careful not to splash lagers about when I’m transferring them. I believe it’s more of a problem with certain heavily-hopped styles like NEIPAs but they’re not something I want to brew