Search results

Hi Neil I'm just down the road in Skelmersdale and I would like to register my interest. Let's see how much interest there is before trying to decide a format. It may just be the two of us!:lol:

For BIAB the purpose written BIABacus is the software to get. It's free and very comprehensive. It's available from BIABrewer.info. A great site for everything BIAB.

I've found that getting the beer as cold as possible before attempting to bottle a big help. Chill as low as you can and then try. I usually chill to around 2 C and then it seems to work a lot better.

I'll be brewing my Hobblin' Goblin for the Spring Thing tomorrow. Then I have a list of other stuff to do that I have been putting off. The weekend just isn't long enough! :hmm:

If you decide to try and bottle some it will help to cool the beer as much as possible. If you can get it down to around 2 C it will minimise the amount of foaming as the beer is transferred. It will also keep more C02 in the beer. If you read the bottling section in Graham Wheelers BYOBRA book...

I think we've all done that at some point. Unfortunately it seems I don't learn from my mistakes as it seems to keep happening, usually near the end of a session! :shock:

For a true comparison you will need to drink them at the same temperature. Allow the cold conditioned bottle time to warm up a bit. Maybe 30 - 60 mins at room temperature. This will allow the flavour and aroma a chance to shine! Then you can see what difference it makes. It will also diminish...

This sounds like the perfect opportunity for an experiment. Cold condition half of the bottles and when you drink them you can do side by side comparisons (ok, so you have to have at least 2 bottles each time but nobody said it was easy!) This will show what, if any difference cold conditioning...

Hi KP I'm up in Skem but would be interested. SWMBO has already offered to ferry me about if I need it so you're only 20 mins away! Keep us posted. Thanks

5g of Woodfordes Wherry to kick off the year! Total 497g

Your best bet at this stage is to keg it with the priming sugar and start the carbonation stage (in the warm for a couple of weeks). After this into the cold for a few more. Try a sample once the beer is carbonated and you should get better mouthfeel and the beer will seem less watery. The CO2...

This is a long shot but I assume you are sanitising the bottle caps as well. Just a thought that hasn't been mentioned yet.

I've asked Santa for one of two things this year. Either a large shed for brewing in or one of the kids to move out and free up a bedroom sized brewery! :cheers: I'm not holding my breathe for the second to happen any time soon. :(

Hi Dave In answer to your question about timescales, forget time and use your hydrometer. Timescales on kits are ridiculously optimistic and misleading. Test the gravity of the beer with the hydrometer and once you have 3 consecutive days with the same gravity, fermentation has finished. If...

I have a shelf of canned bitter which people bring me in return for fixing computers etc. The most common is John Smiths. :o I keep it to offer guests who would rather have a "real beer" instead of one of mine. I usually allow them one can before setting up a taste test. So far only one...

I've brewed it as well. It was very good. :)

5 Gallons of Gem & I (Bath Ales Gem Clone) Total 3528.5

Don't mention Jif whatever you do! :shock: What is a Cif? :wha:

5.4 gallons :whistle: Bath Gem Total 3360

I try to have a good supply of maturing beer that is at least 2 months old, up to 6 months. I will however try a beer after 3 weeks in the keg "just to see how it's going" ;) It does improve with age but patience is a hard virtue to learn.