youngs larger kit
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A T
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Hi welcome to the forum, it's always best to avoid house hold sugar in kits as it thins them out, you could use dme (dry malt extract) or a mix of that and brewing sugar (glucose) if by second fermentation you mean priming sugar then you can use pretty much any sugar that takes your fancy because in such small amounts it has very little affect on the finished beer
tubby_shaw
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I know that different wilkos have different amounts of brewing gear, but if the wilkos that you got your kit from stocked beer kit enhancer I would go with that in a lager kit :thumb:
Short answer: No. And it doesn't matter what sugar you use when bottling.
Long answer: Campden isn't used in bottling. Priming is a method brewers use to carbonate (condition) beer quickly (well made all-grain beers can have enough slowly fermenting sugars in them to be able to bottle and leave to come into drinkable condition on their own, although it's not necessarily very fizzy). The most basic method of priming is simply to add sugar (1/2 tsp per pint) to the bottle/keg. This extra bit of fermentable material will produce a bit more gas to carbonate your beer. Any fermentable can be used to prime. Some use honey in pale ales, others use dark dried malt extract in stouts. I use simple table sugar as (like A T has said) I don't consider the quantities involved significant to affect the flavour profile of the brew. If I was making a 3.6% session pale ale, I might be minded to use some spraymalt though.
Another way of priming if you're bottling is to dissolve your priming sugar (55 - 80g for 23 litres) in half a pint of boiled and cooled water and put this in the bucket from which you'll bottle. Then syphon the beer from the FV into this bucket, leaving behind a lot of the yeast and other bits and bobs and being careful not to introduce oxygen, and bottle.
Long answer: Campden isn't used in bottling. Priming is a method brewers use to carbonate (condition) beer quickly (well made all-grain beers can have enough slowly fermenting sugars in them to be able to bottle and leave to come into drinkable condition on their own, although it's not necessarily very fizzy). The most basic method of priming is simply to add sugar (1/2 tsp per pint) to the bottle/keg. This extra bit of fermentable material will produce a bit more gas to carbonate your beer. Any fermentable can be used to prime. Some use honey in pale ales, others use dark dried malt extract in stouts. I use simple table sugar as (like A T has said) I don't consider the quantities involved significant to affect the flavour profile of the brew. If I was making a 3.6% session pale ale, I might be minded to use some spraymalt though.
Another way of priming if you're bottling is to dissolve your priming sugar (55 - 80g for 23 litres) in half a pint of boiled and cooled water and put this in the bucket from which you'll bottle. Then syphon the beer from the FV into this bucket, leaving behind a lot of the yeast and other bits and bobs and being careful not to introduce oxygen, and bottle.
On the campden front, it depends on where you live; I'm in the northwest, but have never had any probs. But a friend of mine who's moved down south mentioned on the phone once that his brew's had started tasting "funny" - I told him to add half a C tab, and that sorted him out :thumb:
