Youngs American IPA

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Cheers chaps. I didn't have the overflow issue like clint and others had but I actually only filled to the 22 litre line. There has been some foaming inside the fv though as there is a foam/scum line around the top.
I've just had a quick peek inside and there are still bubbles on the top.

WP_20161106_12_30_37_Pro.jpg
 
Plenty on this forum about leaking lids enabling CO2 to bypass the airlock. Highly likely that your brew is still fermenting, albeit more slowly, with or without a bubbling airlock. Mine took 17 and 20 days to finish before I added the hops.
If you are desperate to find out though, just crack the lid, and peek inside. If there is yeasty foam on top and its not clearing and you can see bubbles rising its still going. And if you are really really desperate gently lower a sanitised hydrometer into your brew and find out what the SG is. That's how I take SG readings; I don't bother with sample jars.

Right, I couldn't wait so did as you suggested and lowered my hydrometer in and got a reading of 1.012 (starting was 1.064).
Is this what you'd expect after 9 days?
 
Right, I couldn't wait so did as you suggested and lowered my hydrometer in and got a reading of 1.012 (starting was 1.064).
Is this what you'd expect after 9 days?
Probably. It should go down a bit more.
My two started out lower than yours and I got 1.007 and 1.008. For the same attenuation you should be getting 1.008/1.009 ish.
But the most important thing is, your brew is still fermenting like I mentioned earlier.
In any case I would be leaving it alone another week in the FV before you take another reading, it will do it no harm whatsoever, especially now you have satisfied your curiosity. But keep the lid on in the meantime, yes, that's keep the lid on
 
Mine was quiet for the last day or so but this morning was bubbling again and now it is going a bit more...the stout is still quiet..

Cheers

Clint
 
Mine will be 2 weeks on Friday and is now bubbling once every min so I'm guessing nearly ready for adding the hops?!
 
After watching the fv for around 5 mins and seeing no action whatsoever, I decided to take a reading and I'm getting exactly 1.01.
If I check again tomorrow and get the same reading, would it be time to add the hops?
 
After watching the fv for around 5 mins and seeing no action whatsoever, I decided to take a reading and I'm getting exactly 1.01.
If I check again tomorrow and get the same reading, would it be time to add the hops?

If you mean 1.010 then yes adding the hops now would be ok as Youl still be giving Ur beer another four to five days for the dry hop.
But remember if you don't have time to rack Ur beer middle of next week then maybe leave Ur beer alone till Monday to dry hop and come sat morning be time to bottle.
 
If you mean 1.010 then yes adding the hops now would be ok as Youl still be giving Ur beer another four to five days for the dry hop.
But remember if you don't have time to rack Ur beer middle of next week then maybe leave Ur beer alone till Monday to dry hop and come sat morning be time to bottle.

Yeah was 1.010 but today was 1.008 so I've added the hops.
I'm gonna bottle straight from the fv this time but next time I shall batch prime in a secondary bucket.
This is my plan:-
Sunday I shall clean then sterilise my bottles using the oven method then add the sugar to each individual bottle then cover with cling film.
Then on Wednesday I shall bottle.
Would this be ok?

Cheers
Gaz
 
You may struggle with one FV unless you can cold crash or transfer to another bottling bucket,the hops clog up the tap if they haven't dropped out of suspension.
Whatever, its a cracking beer.
Enjoy
 
Cold crash???
Sorry mate, I'm new to this.
Maybe another £10 fv from wilko will be easier then so I can batch prime?
 
Cold crash???
'Cold crash' is a home brewers term for a period of time at the end of the primary where the beer is put in a cold place to encourage the yeast to drop out of suspension, and may also work with freely distributed hops and any other suspended solids as well.
I usually dry hop with the first four days in the warm then move my FV into my unheated garage for two days. Some people use their fridges for this stage.
Be aware that if you have chucked the dry hops in as they are then most will have dropped to the bottom but there will still be some floating about, which will get transferred to the next stage when you siphon the beer out. Unless you are not bothered about hop bits in your beer (some aren't) you need to filter the hops out. I now use a nylon mesh sock that goes over the end of the siphon tube that works really well, like this
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5-x-Home-...390902?hash=item35f5d12436:g:0ykAAOSwIwhWTF6w
Mine came from a Festival kit.
More on dry hopping here
http://www.thehomebrewforum.co.uk/showthread.php?t=61045
 
This is finally calm after 12 days of near constant bubbling. I've swapped the gunged blow off tube for a clean airlock. Out of curiosity I've done a gravity....1016...I suppose this needs longer before dry hop. .

Cheers

Clint

..the airlock has started bubbling so obviously it's still active. I have wondered whether the temp is on the low side at 18°c....it's got a thick towel round it now. I'm contemplating making a thick insulated jacket and getting a heat belt and inkbird...
 
'Cold crash' is a home brewers term for a period of time at the end of the primary where the beer is put in a cold place to encourage the yeast to drop out of suspension, and may also work with freely distributed hops and any other suspended solids as well.
I usually dry hop with the first four days in the warm then move my FV into my unheated garage for two days. Some people use their fridges for this stage.
Be aware that if you have chucked the dry hops in as they are then most will have dropped to the bottom but there will still be some floating about, which will get transferred to the next stage when you siphon the beer out. Unless you are not bothered about hop bits in your beer (some aren't) you need to filter the hops out. I now use a nylon mesh sock that goes over the end of the siphon tube that works really well, like this
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5-x-Home-...390902?hash=item35f5d12436:g:0ykAAOSwIwhWTF6w
Mine came from a Festival kit.
More on dry hopping here
http://www.thehomebrewforum.co.uk/showthread.php?t=61045

Thanks mate, so after your 2 days in the cold garage you will bottle and keep warm again for a couple of weeks to carbonate?
Thanks for the tip regarding the hops...I'm gonna get another fv that I can syphon into to be able to batch prime before bottling so ill get one to filter at this stage. Assuming the sock goes on the outlet of the syphon to catch the hops?
 
Thanks mate, so after your 2 days in the cold garage you will bottle and keep warm again for a couple of weeks to carbonate?
Thanks for the tip regarding the hops...I'm gonna get another fv that I can syphon into to be able to batch prime before bottling so ill get one to filter at this stage. Assuming the sock goes on the outlet of the syphon to catch the hops?
My process is (assuming a dry hop)
- make sure the primary has all but finished (by taking SG readings)
- rack off to a second FV to get it off the yeast to help clearing (some do this, some don't, I do)
- dry hop four days in the warm two days in the cool (I can't do latter in summer :-?)
- bottle or into PB direct; I don't bother with bottling buckets
I know I can go straight into PB/bottles at the end of the dry hop because the primary was finished/all but finished six days before
And yes the sock goes over the immersed end of the siphon tube -but if you use one make sure it is sanitised before use. I do this by boiling it in water for 5-10mins.,
 
This is finally calm after 12 days of near constant bubbling. I've swapped the gunged blow off tube for a clean airlock. Out of curiosity I've done a gravity....1016...I suppose this needs longer before dry hop. .

Cheers

Clint

..the airlock has started bubbling so obviously it's still active. I have wondered whether the temp is on the low side at 18°c....it's got a thick towel round it now. I'm contemplating making a thick insulated jacket and getting a heat belt and inkbird...

id raise the temp mate.couple of degrees. This yeast likes the warmer side. Youl hopefully get a few more gravity points down in the process.
 
Thanks for the replies...I haven't got any means of raising the temp atm and don't really want to shift the fv as there's not really anywhere to put it. Have to see if I can order the bits I need on Monday. .

Cheers

Clint
 
Thanks for the replies...I haven't got any means of raising the temp atm and don't really want to shift the fv as there's not really anywhere to put it. Have to see if I can order the bits I need on Monday. .

Cheers

Clint

If your in no rush leave it another week as it is. I think its important to try and get the recommend FG or as close to.
I had a short brew of 20litres so I couldn't get past 1.014 which sounds high but all relevant for the volume. It was still strong as hell. Prob the highest abv I've ever made. Had to give some away as my Mrs said it made me intolerable
 

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