Wort chiller pump

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scissors to cut the cable of and teeth to remove the insulation. As it has 12V you won't be killed (if you don't have a medical condition I never heard of)
 
scissors to cut the cable of and teeth to remove the insulation. As it has 12V you won't be killed (if you don't have a medical condition I never heard of)

So I have to cut that connector of a strip the cable but then what do I connect it too
 
Maybe it's better to by a solution which is already assembled.

A Grainfather or a Brewmaster.

I just want to use the pump to recirculated ice water through the immersion chiller after taking the majority of heat out by running the water from tap through chiller. Just want too know what 12v power supply connects to this pump
 
Specification:
100% Brand New
Dimensions: Approx 9cm x 4.5cm x 6cm (L x W x H)
Color: following the picture
Rated voltage: 12V DC
Rated current: 0.7A(max)
Diameter of Outlet: 20.3mm
Diameter of Inlet: 20.3mm
Food-grade: Yes
Max Capacity: 480L/H(126Gph)
Pump head: 3M(max)
Noise: <=35dB
Working temperature: 0℃ ~ +100℃
Service life: 40000 hours up.
Motor: DC brushless motor.
Pump: Centrifugal pump.
Waterproof Rate: IP68
Suitable for: Aquarium, solar-panel circulate system, fountain, electronic refrigerator, water heater etc.
This water pump can be amphibious.
Package Content:
1x 12V Water Pump

from the ebay page linked to.. the pump needs a 12v dc power supply that can supply in excess of 0.7a or 700ma
using a psu with a lower capacity will result in the pump trying to suck/drain more power than the supply can provide and it will fail and loose all its magic smoke (the psu not the pump)

you can use a lower voltage supply with ample power capacity too, ie 9v, the pump will just run slower.. but too low and it may not start the pump even..

a 9v smoke alarm type battery should run the pump enough for testing its all ok but not for a full chill cycle ;)
at a push you could borrow a 12v car battery for a chill cycle ;)

So any 12v DC power supply rated higher than 700ma (0.7a) will run the pump, and with DC voltage + is red - is black and when connecting up to the psu its + to + and - to - a simple inline switch will allow you to connect the pums lead directly to the psu and provide a easy inline on off control.
s-l225.jpg

http://www.ebay.ie/itm/2-Pcs-Bedroo...391490?hash=item33a24e96c2:g:Z1MAAOSwBahVS9tB
 
from the ebay page linked to.. the pump needs a 12v dc power supply that can supply in excess of 0.7a or 700ma
using a psu with a lower capacity will result in the pump trying to suck/drain more power than the supply can provide and it will fail and loose all its magic smoke (the psu not the pump)

you can use a lower voltage supply with ample power capacity too, ie 9v, the pump will just run slower.. but too low and it may not start the pump even..

a 9v smoke alarm type battery should run the pump enough for testing its all ok but not for a full chill cycle ;)
at a push you could borrow a 12v car battery for a chill cycle ;)

So any 12v DC power supply rated higher than 700ma (0.7a) will run the pump, and with DC voltage + is red - is black and when connecting up to the psu its + to + and - to - a simple inline switch will allow you to connect the pums lead directly to the psu and provide a easy inline on off control.
s-l225.jpg

http://www.ebay.ie/itm/2-Pcs-Bedroo...391490?hash=item33a24e96c2:g:Z1MAAOSwBahVS9tB
Cheers understand how I'll get it going now great advice
 

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