theboytony
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What sorts of things do you guys add to beer kits, to make them taste nicer/different
What to add to beer kits
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I'm a newb, but using Dried Malt Extract (DME, aka spraymalt - best option), or Beer Enhancer (a mix of DME and bewing sugar - next best option, and a bit cheaper) instead of adding white sugar. You could also try a different yeast to the one included, maybe Safale 04 or Nottingham from your LHBS or online order. Good luck.
If a darker beer, you might consider some fresh grain. It makes quite a difference.
Get some steepable grains (half a kilo or so of a crystal malt might work nicely in a dark ale). Steepable grains are ones that have been kilned such that the sugars are already available without mashing, the darker ones basically not your base malt. Pop the grains in a bit of cheesecloth and tie the top to make a big tea bag. I'd recommend double layering the cheesecloth so little bits of grain don't escape as easily. Then pop your malty teabag in a pan of 60 degrees Celcius water. Let it sit a bit for the sugars to come out, then bash the bag around a bit to squeeze it out some more. Drain the water into your brewpot. Now add some more hot water and do the same. Stop when the water starts running out with much less colour in it. Now top up the water to the required level and carry on with your tinned malt as usual.
You should be able to tell the "lift" in the malt flavour that even a little bit of fresh grain makes, and it's as easy as making a cup of tea (sort of)! :)
Get some steepable grains (half a kilo or so of a crystal malt might work nicely in a dark ale). Steepable grains are ones that have been kilned such that the sugars are already available without mashing, the darker ones basically not your base malt. Pop the grains in a bit of cheesecloth and tie the top to make a big tea bag. I'd recommend double layering the cheesecloth so little bits of grain don't escape as easily. Then pop your malty teabag in a pan of 60 degrees Celcius water. Let it sit a bit for the sugars to come out, then bash the bag around a bit to squeeze it out some more. Drain the water into your brewpot. Now add some more hot water and do the same. Stop when the water starts running out with much less colour in it. Now top up the water to the required level and carry on with your tinned malt as usual.
You should be able to tell the "lift" in the malt flavour that even a little bit of fresh grain makes, and it's as easy as making a cup of tea (sort of)! :)
spin
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Not been doing this for long. I'm still trying to find an economical compromise on price/quality.
So have been experimenting a little bit with each brew I have done.
I've not tried adding any grains yet, but that will be my next step.
I find that 1kg Beer Enhancer still doesn't make half as good beer as 1kg of DME.
So it's definitely worth the slightly higher cost of DME.
Another thing I find is that not making the kit up with so much water gives more flavour.
Maybe only make it up to 20L. I also use spring water, or half spring water and half pre-boiled tap water. But I've never made a batch with just tap water so I'm not sure how that would turn out. (not any more, tap water is fine)
I know you can buy Campden Powder which will remove the Chlorine if you use tap water (I do this now and it works out great).
Sometimes I make a hop tea and add that.
Another easy thing I like to do is to dry hop in a secondary fermentor for 2 weeks. It gives a lovely aroma to your beer. I was pleased with the results of dry hopping my Coopers Pale Ale. :thumb:
All you need to do is after one week in your fermentation bucket, syphon the beer into a secondary fermentor (glass caboy is best) and add some pellet hops. I added 15g of Saaz hops last time. I might try more next time as I loved the aroma.
One more thing I know of is you can use different yeast to the packet yeast. I don't know how much of a difference this makes yet though as I am trying it on my current batch. I re-cultured some yeast from the sediment in a bottle conditioned comercial beer called Coopers Pale Ale. But you can buy different yeast varieties. (re-cultured Coopers yeast was great).
I'm still learning the ropes myself but these are my findings so far, through trial and error.
So have been experimenting a little bit with each brew I have done.
I've not tried adding any grains yet, but that will be my next step.
I find that 1kg Beer Enhancer still doesn't make half as good beer as 1kg of DME.
So it's definitely worth the slightly higher cost of DME.
Another thing I find is that not making the kit up with so much water gives more flavour.
Maybe only make it up to 20L. I also use spring water, or half spring water and half pre-boiled tap water. But I've never made a batch with just tap water so I'm not sure how that would turn out. (not any more, tap water is fine)
I know you can buy Campden Powder which will remove the Chlorine if you use tap water (I do this now and it works out great).
Sometimes I make a hop tea and add that.
Another easy thing I like to do is to dry hop in a secondary fermentor for 2 weeks. It gives a lovely aroma to your beer. I was pleased with the results of dry hopping my Coopers Pale Ale. :thumb:
All you need to do is after one week in your fermentation bucket, syphon the beer into a secondary fermentor (glass caboy is best) and add some pellet hops. I added 15g of Saaz hops last time. I might try more next time as I loved the aroma.
One more thing I know of is you can use different yeast to the packet yeast. I don't know how much of a difference this makes yet though as I am trying it on my current batch. I re-cultured some yeast from the sediment in a bottle conditioned comercial beer called Coopers Pale Ale. But you can buy different yeast varieties. (re-cultured Coopers yeast was great).
I'm still learning the ropes myself but these are my findings so far, through trial and error.
senorjoeyo
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Am currently experimenting with nettle juice and a beer kit enhancer, I'm quite keen on getting a use for nettles in my brewing as they're free, can anyone else reccomend any free ingredients to add?
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