Me too.
Are we being too traditional in this modern world of pressure fermentation and dry hopping?
What do people use to help clear their beer?
- Thread starter Obadiah Boondoggle
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Are we being too traditional in this modern world of pressure fermentation and dry hopping?
A plastic bucket and separate bottling bucket is what I use. Won't be brewing NEIPA any time soon
I've been useing ½ protofloc at 10 mins and Harris starbrite before cold crashing at 3° for 3 days before bottling/ keging seems to work well. I never really bothered about cloudy beer though as long as it tastes good not sure why I've started worrying about it now, guess it's just progression.
An Ankoù
Landlord.
Traditional doesn't come into it. Much of my beer in the eighties, never made it to the keg or bottle. I had a special corner of one of the kitchen work surfaces which were reserved for my fermenters. During a late night playing cards, we'd dunk a half pint glass below the floating dry hops and strain it through our teeth., How much clearer do you want it?
EDIT:
And I don't recall a beer ever going off due to such unsanitary treatment.
Probably didn;t hang around long enough to go off.
Hanglow
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I try and do as much as possible pre-fermentation to guarantee clear beer.
Clear runnings into copper, then a decent enough boil, make sure I have the correct pH when I add copper finings (between 5 and 5.2), which are at the moment gallotannins, then protofloc then pvpp. Although I had good results with brewbrite too, which I think is pretty much the same thing just all mixed together. Then ensure that it settles properly after chilling in the copper so I get crystal clear wort into the fermentor. Also used brewers clarex a couple of times which seems to work well for chill haze. Then use a nice flocculant yeast. No need for isinglass/gelatin then
Clear runnings into copper, then a decent enough boil, make sure I have the correct pH when I add copper finings (between 5 and 5.2), which are at the moment gallotannins, then protofloc then pvpp. Although I had good results with brewbrite too, which I think is pretty much the same thing just all mixed together. Then ensure that it settles properly after chilling in the copper so I get crystal clear wort into the fermentor. Also used brewers clarex a couple of times which seems to work well for chill haze. Then use a nice flocculant yeast. No need for isinglass/gelatin then
RoomWithABrew
Landlord.
Agreed Clarity ferm ( same as clarex I think ) useful for chill haze prevention, I don't bother with it for dark or hazy beers.
Does reduce gluten a lot as well for the gluten sensitive.
There is a very interesting podcast on homebrewingdiy.com. Podcast Episode 78 – Making Clear Beer with Jamie Carmichael. He is an expert on finings and he says everybody uses far too much protoflac. I think he said one tablet is enough for an industrial size brew. So he said to just use a gram or two. He said too much can adversely affect clarity. It’s certainly worth a listen.
Alan_Reginato
Well-Known Member
Whirflock and filter with polyester fiber (hop bag), when transferring to fermenter. A good flocculant yeast, such as Nottingham, also helps a lot. Also, cold crash, specially with the type of beer that show cold haze issues. Another option, is refrigerate the bottles a week, or more, before open them.
Tickles58
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I’ve been using gelatine one small packet or 2 sheets. Dissolve in 200ml water heat to 72*c no hotter in microwave steer in when at temperature and cold crash for 48hrs. Then syphon off into your keg bottles or barrel. No problem with sediment. It’s not much good if you’re veteran though 
Why, can it effect your army pension?
I just use time to clear the beer and some refrigeration. I've been tempted to use Irish moss.
HOWEVER, if I have my Galaxy-Class starship available, I reroute power from the warp drive to the deflector dish where I invert the field and send tachyon bursts through the fermenter at three second intervals. It's a little expensive.
HOWEVER, if I have my Galaxy-Class starship available, I reroute power from the warp drive to the deflector dish where I invert the field and send tachyon bursts through the fermenter at three second intervals. It's a little expensive.
Right, because you could never get a decent pint out of those replicators.
phildo79
Member
Time and coldness. I only use Irish moss if I am making a beer over 8% in case the yeast becomes prohibited. My beers start out hazy but become very clear after a while in the fridge.
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