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I've never bothered about pH much either; I probably should. I have some of the paper strips, but I haven't used them for a while. I think I was unclear about at what point it should be checked. In the past I have checked early in the mashing process and the value was generally around 5.2 if I recall right.

Anyway, here's Grey Sheep II

sheep2.jpeg

My days of muddy-looking beer in the testing jar are over! :D

Now to see what difference a liquid yeast makes.
 
As for my electrical issues upthread, a closer examination reveals the ugly truth!

wiring.jpg

The live (red) wire was a particularly bad way. All the clamp screws were pretty loose. I cut it all back to good wiring and fitted a new plug. Should be OK now, fingers crossed. I hope I haven't wrecked that socket, but I have others.
 
I've never bothered about pH much either; I probably should. I have some of the paper strips, but I haven't used them for a while. I think I was unclear about at what point it should be checked. In the past I have checked early in the mashing process and the value was generally around 5.2 if I recall right.

Anyway, here's Grey Sheep II

View attachment 56464

My days of muddy-looking beer in the testing jar are over! :D

Now to see what difference a liquid yeast makes.

I usually measure mash pH at approximately 10 minutes in to the mash. I take a small sample let it cool to room temp then take a reading with my meter.

According to John Palmer "How to Brew" mash pH can be checked between 5-10 minutes in to the mash process. Also don't wait to long either because pH continuously drops (very slowly) during the course of the mash process.
 
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Another batch of GLADFIELD SUMMER GOLD for me.
I'm so impressed with the last batch brewed earlier in the year. A couple of changes: I've substituted all M.O, for the mix of Golden Promise and Pilsner malt I used last time- I'd like it just a tad richer- and I'm not using that ghastly lallemand BRY-97 again, I'll try US-05 especially since I've already got a beer fermenting with a nice head just waiting to be harvested.
No other changes.
20 litre batch on the mother. (rhyming slang for cooker)

Love NZ hops. There are some lovely flavours and, so far, I haven't come across anything "dank".
 
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Another batch of GLADFIELD SUMMER GOLD for me.
I'm so impressed with the last batch brewed earlier in the year. A couple of changes: I've substituted all M.O, for the mix of Golden Promise and Pilsner malt I used last time- I'd like it just a tad richer- and I'm not using that ghastly lallemand BRY-97 again, I'll try US-05 especially since I've already got a beer fermenting with a nice head just waiting to be harvested.
No other changes.
20 litre batch on the mother. (rhyming slang for cooker)

Love NZ hops. There are some lovely flavours and, so far, I haven't come across anything "dank".

I've enjoyed the nz hops I've tried so far, was thinking of brewing a kiwi pils using waimea next month.
 
Really felt like Weisbier so not particularly complicated but:

Fermentor Volume: 4.5L
Expected Packaged Volume: 4L
Grain Bill
Wheat 500g
Pilsner Malt 500g

Hops
10g Hallertau Hersbrucker (2.5AA) @60 Minutes (14.82 IBU)
10g Saaz (3.5AA) @5 Minutes (4.14 IBU)
Total: 18.96 IBU

Yeast: CML Gretel

OG: 1.036
FG (predicted): 1.005
ABV 4%

I really need to remember that every time I use wheat in any quantity my efficiency seems to drop dramatically. Ah well I suppose I will claim it’s a ‘session’ Weissbier and hope for the best and maybe next time either increase the grain bill slightly or add A little dme.
 
I've have had my power socket replaced this afternoon, so hopefully my electrical woes are over.

It did make me think that a six-monthly check on the plug of the boiler would be good practice, though.
 
As for my electrical issues upthread, a closer examination reveals the ugly truth!

View attachment 56479

The live (red) wire was a particularly bad way. All the clamp screws were pretty loose. I cut it all back to good wiring and fitted a new plug. Should be OK now, fingers crossed. I hope I haven't wrecked that socket, but I have others.
Glad you found it, and good job you caught it when you did.

If those clamp screws work loose over time or suffer from corrosion then it means all the current flows through small contact area that consequently gets very hot...

I shudder at the idea of this ever happening in a junction box up in the loft - it shouldn't, because all the cables up there should be solid core and the clamping screws are much heavier duty. But it makes me think it might be worth putting a smoke detector in the loft and checking all the cabling up there is to the appropriate standard...
 
As for my electrical issues upthread, a closer examination reveals the ugly truth!

View attachment 56479

The live (red) wire was a particularly bad way. All the clamp screws were pretty loose. I cut it all back to good wiring and fitted a new plug. Should be OK now, fingers crossed. I hope I haven't wrecked that socket, but I have others.
If things had got to the stage where you had to physically pry the plug out of the socket then I'd suggest getting the socket replaced - even if it appears to work the heat may have damaged the contacts.
 
If things had got to the stage where you had to physically pry the plug out of the socket then I'd suggest getting the socket replaced - even if it appears to work the heat may have damaged the contacts.
I had to replace a socket when the plug of the extension lead to the boiler was welded in it. Stopped using extension lead since.
 

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