Using a beer pump/engine with Cornie

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I disconnect when I am .5 pint away from finishing the session and pull some water through.
 
Hi Lanky
So do you have a three way valve in line to shut off the Cornie supply and then have a water feed coming from a bucket?
What CO2 pressure are you maintaining in the Cornie?

Brian
 
Brian.

You could use the way valve to flush.....hadn't thought of that one. Nice idea Sir.

I use a type D sanke connector so as soon as I lift the lever and disconnect it's ready to be submersed in water and the pump operated. You could make an adapter that is the same as the 'out' line on the cornie and connect that.

Like I said, I use a sanke/crusader keg as they seal at zero pressure. I have heard that cornies are difficult to seal at low pressures, but I have not tried.

As for carbonation for real ales, I allow mine to ferment out completely on the yeast and rack to a keg after 2 weeks. I then apply 10 psi of CO2 for a week and disconnect. Serve with a pump and a cask breather. Has just a 'prickle' of fizz..........perfect!
 
... What CO2 pressure are you maintaining in the Cornie?
Brian

Hello Brian, I've been working on this problem for a few months now (hand-pumps and cornie kegs) but the article I was writing went elsewhere to get a "more critical" slamming. But it was always my intention to bring it back here and that may be very soon.

Meanwhile: I use 50-150mB LPG regulators connected all the time (delivering 0.75 up to 2psi). Regulators in common use for beer will not hold to pressures below 8-10psi.

Gotchas are, like Lanky94 mentioned, Cornie lids can be tricky to seal at very low pressure (<1psi). But even if they are sealed a beer-pump will continue drawing beer even if pressure drops below 0psi - by sucking air past the seal; and given a few days the beer will then go off. And Lanky94 threw caution to the wind by mentioning "real ale" and using Npsi of CO2 in the same sentence; this can attract unwelcome comments (I've been there)!

But I concluded there is very good reason to keep some small CO2 pressure on home-brew to provide "Real Ale" style beer; 0psi will NOT result in good beer after a few days.

By "none return" valve I guess you mean a beer-line non-return valve (they are actually demand valves, have diaphragms and are shaped like flying saucers, but for some historical reason are called "non-return valves" EDIT: or "check valves"). Yes, you need one of them.
 
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Thanks for your input Peebee.
I'm going to put an "Aspirator" on the gas supply side (£37.50 from Brandels is the best price I can find)
I'm planning to run two beer engines plus one Cornie at a higher pressure to a tap, all from the same CO2 regulator, assuming it all works I'll post a schematic drawing.

Brian
 
Thanks for your input Peebee.
I'm going to put an "Aspirator" on the gas supply side (�£37.50 from Brandels is the best price I can find)
I'm planning to run two beer engines plus one Cornie at a higher pressure to a tap, all from the same CO2 regulator, assuming it all works I'll post a schematic drawing.

Brian

That was the other reason for using LPG regulators. Just bought one (variable, 50-150mBar) for £17.35 including delivery (Hamilton Gas Products). I need a couple of John Guest fittings (<£3) to connect it up, but you probably do with he aspirator as well.

And as I tried to say; Beer kept at 0PSI (what an aspirator will do) will not make good beer after a week or so. CFBS (just had some of their junk mail) reckon they are right clever because their "breather" system may keep beer for two weeks. The LPG regulator maintains 0.75-2PSI.

Of course, 0.75-2PSI means it wont be "Real Ale" to the CAMRA definitions (whereas they will tolerate aspirators). But after 2 weeks at 0PSI you wont have "Real Ale" anyway, just some unpalatable liquid.

Just a warning.

No problem splitting the CO2 lines, its what I do. The "Aspirator" is effectively just a secondary regulator. I have an assortment of regulators all taking there input from the main regulator and putting out different pressures to different beers.
 
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