Titanic Stout.

[sheffieldlad]

Hi all,

I'm new to the forum and quite new to brewing.
I've done a few voddy kits from the local brew shop and I'm slowly gathering equipment to make my own boiler and tun in preperation for my first AG brew.

Enough about me...

Anyone got a reipe that comes close to Titanc stout?

Also, the bottle says on the back that there is yeast inside.
Is it possible to harvest it and if so how? and is it worth it or is it just put in the bottle to condition the ale?

Thanks and happy brewing, :drink:

Paul.

 

[Wendy1971]

some of the forum recipes might come close
Try this you can substitute the hops with fuggles if you like

4.0 kg Maris Otter Pale
0.8 kg British Crystal 55°L
0.4 kg Barley Flaked
0.4 kg Carapils®/Carafoam®
0.4 kg Roasted Barley
0.25 kg English Chocolate Malt
0.2 kg British Black Patent

100.0 g Hallertau (4.5%) - added during boil, boiled 60 min

 

[sheffieldlad]

some of the forum recipes might come close
Try this you can substitute the hops with fuggles if you like

4.0 kg Maris Otter Pale
0.8 kg British Crystal 55°L
0.4 kg Barley Flaked
0.4 kg Carapils®/Carafoam®
0.4 kg Roasted Barley
0.25 kg English Chocolate Malt
0.2 kg British Black Patent

100.0 g Hallertau (4.5%) - added during boil, boiled 60 min

Thanks Wendy.
Mash at 68 for 90 mins?
Noob.. :arrow: :wha:

 

[Wendy1971]

mash at 66 for 90 mins

 

[sheffieldlad]

mash at 66 for 90 mins

ty :)

 

[Vossy1]

harvesting yeast :thumb:

 

[sheffieldlad]

harvesting yeast :thumb:

Thanks Vossy1.

How do I tell if it's a primary yeast strain?

-Paul.

 

[Vossy1]

Without insider knowledge you can't. Having said that there are the usual suspects regards stout yeasts, have a look here for ideas. Most stout yeast impart very little in the way of flavour, the roast malts are meant to do that.

 

[sheffieldlad]

Without insider knowledge you can't. Having said that there are the usual suspects regards stout yeasts, have a look here for ideas. Most stout yeast impart very little in the way of flavour, the roast malts are meant to do that.

If it turns out not to be a primary strain is it still useful?
I'm guessing if it's not primary it's used to prime the beer to put gas into it while it's in the bottle?
Could I use it to do something similar?
I'm not keen on the idea of lovingly bringing on my brew then ramming co2 into it.

If I harvest the yeast and use it would I be able to tell if it's primary or not and if so how?

Sorry for all the questions, Trying to further my knowledge about a subject I'm falling in love with :)

Thanks,

-Paul.

 

[Wendy1971]

The primary yeast gets into the bottles even though its bottled from the secondary. You need to grow the yeast on in a starter using spraymalt etc

 

[sheffieldlad]

The primary yeast gets into the bottles even though its bottled from the secondary. You need to grow the yeast on in a starter using spraymalt etc

on the back of the botle it tells you to pour slowly and leave a bit in the bottom cos there's yeast in there. how much do you need?

I couldn't see anything in there before I rinsed it ready to be sterealised to make way for my impending brew.

 

[Vossy1]

The primary yeast gets into the bottles even though its bottled from the secondary

Not if it's filtered **assumed bought beer**

If it turns out not to be a primary strain is it still useful?

Yep, it will be, but you may have to play with a few beers to see what it suits.

I'm guessing if it's not primary it's used to prime the beer to put gas into it while it's in the bottle?

All yeast will do that, there's no 'super' yeast for creating C02. Why use a different yeast for conditioning...there are a few possibilities I know of, and more others will know about.
One good reason is that when bottling you want a yeast that will form a firm/stable sediment in the bottle when pouring. Some primary yeast strains are very 'loose' and will be easily disturbed when moving the bottle.

I'm not keen on the idea of lovingly bringing on my brew then ramming co2 into it.

That would be hard, but not impossible to do. Lets say you want a sweet finish to a beer and use a 'lesser' attenuating yeast as the primary. If you were then to bottle with a 'highly' attenuating yeast you would ruin what you were trying to achieve. In this case it's about balancing the beer overall.

Priming with sugar is a way of using your original yeast to carbonate your beer. There are ways round this also. The primary yeast strain will continue working in the bottle even when your gravity is stable after fermenting, give it time and it will mop up the complex sugars and carbonate your beer....the key word time.

You can also get round adding sugar for priming by knowing what your primary yeast is likely to attenuate to. If you bottle the beer a couple of gravity points short it will finish the job off in the bottle.

It's horses for courses really :grin:

 

[sheffieldlad]

The primary yeast gets into the bottles even though its bottled from the secondary

Not if it's filtered **assumed bought beer**
[quote:1nlsa184]If it turns out not to be a primary strain is it still useful?

Yep, it will be, but you may have to play with a few beers to see what it suits.

I'm guessing if it's not primary it's used to prime the beer to put gas into it while it's in the bottle?

All yeast will do that, there's no 'super' yeast for creating C02. Why use a different yeast for conditioning...there are a few possibilities I know of, and more others will know about.
One good reason is that when bottling you want a yeast that will form a firm/stable sediment in the bottle when pouring. Some primary yeast strains are very 'loose' and will be easily disturbed when moving the bottle.

I'm not keen on the idea of lovingly bringing on my brew then ramming co2 into it.

That would be hard, but not impossible to do. Lets say you want a sweet finish to a beer and use a 'lesser' attenuating yeast as the primary. If you were then to bottle with a 'highly' attenuating yeast you would ruin what you were trying to achieve. In this case it's about balancing the beer overall.

Priming with sugar is a way of using your original yeast to carbonate your beer. There are ways round this also. The primary yeast strain will continue working in the bottle even when your gravity is stable after fermenting, give it time and it will mop up the complex sugars and carbonate your beer....the key word time.

You can also get round adding sugar for priming by knowing what your primary yeast is likely to attenuate to. If you bottle the beer a couple of gravity points short it will finish the job off in the bottle.

It's horses for courses really :grin:[/quote:1nlsa184]

Thanks for the info.

I think it would be wise to visit this topic once I've got a bit more experience and confidence in my own brewing.
It's all very much above my station at the moment but good reading non the less.

Thanks,

-Paul.