Thermobox Tap Conversion

[periolus]

Okay. So, Aleman posted a very useful video here:

http://www.effinbrewery.dreamhosters.co ... 3&Itemid=9

which demonstrates how to fit a ball valve in place of an otherwise ***** tap. I like this a lot. BUT.... I would really like two questions answered:

1. In the video, Aleman describes not liking the nipple that is supplied with the tap and that he wouldn't normally be using this in his brewery. What is a sensible alternative?

2. On the inside, you are left with limited options without drilling out the fitting that is left. What can be done that limits, or even eliminates the need to drill, to enable the easy fitting of a manifold and hop filter based on 15mm copper tubing? 10mm is mentioned in the video,

Really, i wanted to avoid having to drill through the thermobox because of the pain in the **** created by the construction. So - any elegant solutions and answers to these questions that work with the existing hole and/or fittings as far as possible would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Bram]

This is what I've done with my 38.5L Thermobox and requires no drilling or cutting at all, that would be far beyond my skills!

The nipple on mine sheared in half ( fortunately after brewing whilst cleaning out the mash tun! ) but I had already decided to replace it as it's made of chromed brass and of poor quality in my opinion. I kept the inside silicone washer + retaining ring and also the rubber washer that fits on the outside of the inner wall whilst discarding the 3/8" brass nut. A 3/8" s/s pipe nipple was then pushed through the hole of the inner wall, then after replacing the silicone washer and retaining ring, a 3/8" full s/s socket was screwed on till a tight fit on the inside. ( a half socket would probably have sufficed and I've attached a 3/8" hosetail to this socket to connect the short piece of hose that fits on to my s/s false bottom via a 90 degree bend. ) On the outside of the inner wall a second 3/8" socket is screwed on to the pipe nipple using PTFE tape, making sure that the original rubber washer is also replaced. The inner socket fits reasonably flush inside the outer hole and I fitted to this a 3/8" s/s "equal hexagon nipple" then screwed on a 3/8" s/s ball valve fitted with a hosetail using PTFE tape again.

All the fittings are now in 316 grade stainless steel and are available from BES amongst other suppliers and at a reasonable price. I don't dismantle the fittings for cleaning but instead run a caustic solution through twice a year to remove any gunge as I'm not concerned about sterility at this stage.

I'll take some photos after Xmas so you can see for yourself how it looks.

Hope this is of some help.

Pete

 

[Bram]

I'd comletely forgotten that you wanted this fitting to attach to your copper manifold, so instead of fitting a 3/8" half or full socket to the inside of the mash tun, replace with a 1/2" to 3/8" "reducing socket" and fit a 1/2" hosetail to this which can then be connected to your manifold via a very short length of reinforced 15mm plastic hose.

 

[periolus]

Hi Bram!

Cheers for that - but I am a LITTLE bit confused where you describe the outside and inside of the inner wall. Do you mean there is a socket literally in the void between the two walls into which things go that effectiviely fill the holes?

If you could post a sketch of this and/or any photos, that would be great. The supplied nipple sounds awful - it sounds like I would be best out of that ASAP.

Hope you had a good xmas and New Year!

Speak soon.

Periolus