The gatling chiller

[Diggerg]

Not too dissimilar to the heat exchangers on my Marine engines at work. Sure someone was asking about using a Bowman exchanger as a chiller. Looks like it may well work. Good job! :

 

[Dronfieldbrewer]

Been in a DIY store today for reference and research purposes...

you can buy platdick push fit waste pipe of various sizes upto 50 mm...these are rated as being able to cope with hot water. a 2 meter section was about £1:60 or thereabouts.

end sections are 40p and are flat on the inside so could be drilled out.

I worked out that 4, 15 mm pipes would fit no problem, probably 6 if you went down to 10 mm...

The only problem I can forsee is getting a seal at the end of the gatling where the pipes go through the end piece...I wonder what could be used for this...

 

[bobsbeer]

I did think of doing it in plastic, certainly cheaper, and using jb weld to secure the 10mm copper pipes. But then I wondered about the copper expanding and pushing out of the end caps. This would only be a problem during recirc to sanitise the chiller but would expand the pipes by about 2-4mm in a 1 m length. So they either bend inside or push out. So rather than have a burst I decided on a copper jacket instead which would expand at the same rate. I also didn't know how well jb weld would stick to the plastic.

 

[Dronfieldbrewer]

I did think of doing it in plastic, certainly cheaper, and using jb weld to secure the 10mm copper pipes. But then I wondered about the copper expanding and pushing out of the end caps. This would only be a problem during recirc to sanitise the chiller but would expand the pipes by about 2-4mm in a 1 m length. So they either bend inside or push out. So rather than have a burst I decided on a copper jacket instead which would expand at the same rate. I also didn't know how well jb weld would stick to the plastic.

Good point Bob...yes it would shove it out as the end cap would be softened a bit due to the heat...

 

[Vossy1]

Food safety aside for one moments, some food for thought, John Guest manifolds (search that term on ebay), it's all designed for central heating systems so no probs heat wise. Just extend from manifold to copper tubes on chiller, no different to how it's used in a ch system.

 

[bobsbeer]

The problem with JG fittings is the usual working temperature. For most of their range it is 82c, but they can take higher for short periods up to 114c. But for hot water systems the max is 95c. Although the max is probably dependant on the working pressure, which in our case would be low, even with a pump, so probably could be used.

 

[Vossy1]

I'm not saying it's right or wrong but I used to use my JG fitting to recirc the boil to sanitise, 10 mins prior to elements being knocked off so I have total faith in them for that, however, do they leach :hmm:

 

[LeithR]

Many thanks Bob, additional pics are just what I wanted to see.

 

[Titch]

very impressive, i need to build or buy a new chiller among other things

will look into this a little more

i have no pumps can this work on gravity fed system?

 

[Jimbo75]

Very clever Bob, looks like a fantastic bit of kit :clap: I'm certain it will work very well.

It's essentially a small scale Shell and Tube heat exchanger isn't it? I saw the one Adnams use when I went on their Brewery tour last year and it was very impressive and is extremely efficient apparently. Quite a few commercial Breweries are using them I believe. Never even considered making one on a home brew scale. Nice one! :hat:

 

[bobsbeer]

It worked well and is easy to clean. But to make it more efficient I have added another 3/4 length one as I had some 54mm pipe left, so in total it is now 1.5m long with 6 elements. As I plan to use this as a recirculating cooler, the feed goes via a manifold in and flows through the units and then back to another manifold and back to the boiler. By going via a manifold it means the flow rate is slowed as it goes through the chiller and then increases back to the boiler, and I can control the flow from the pump with a valve, but not need to throttle the pump back too far putting less strain on the pump. I have yet to use it with wort, but it works well with water.

 

[pjbiker]

Truly a thing of beauty. Looks expensive to fabricate but I like it better than my recently retired 10mm x10m in hosepipe effort. Loving my salvaged DHW HX from my dead combi boiler now though.

 

[loady]

It worked well and is easy to clean. But to make it more efficient I have added another 3/4 length one as I had some 54mm pipe left, so in total it is now 1.5m long with 6 elements. As I plan to use this as a recirculating cooler, the feed goes via a manifold in and flows through the units and then back to another manifold and back to the boiler. By going via a manifold it means the flow rate is slowed as it goes through the chiller and then increases back to the boiler, and I can control the flow from the pump with a valve, but not need to throttle the pump back too far putting less strain on the pump. I have yet to use it with wort, but it works well with water.

Would love to see some pics of this in situ bob.

I am just costing this as a project, i am currently using a CFC i made with braided hose and 10mm bore but it is fraught with periodic leaks, a nuisance especially as i had it boxed in, the problem occurs during sanitation as the heat warms up the hose and softens it, i have tightened the clips a few times now but it has reached the point now of maximum compression and i think is just extruding the plastic, also the clips have started to slip when over tightened..i am going to sell it on i think and go for your build.

A few questions if you dont mind....

1) Why did you opt for 54mm and not 67mm or 76mm ?..im guessing because you cant find end caps or the cost of end caps for those sizes are a lot more ?

2) if i opted for 108mm at a 1500mm length do you think it would circumvent the need for an additional one given i could increase its efficiency by adding two extra bores or even using 6 x 15mm ? having said that, the ceapest end caps for it are £21 !!

3) i cant seem to find straight lengths of 10mm pipe..it ALL seems to be coiled..yours looks far to straight to have been hand straightened ?

4) not being a plumber by trade..could you name the other parts you used in the total build please to ease my searching. :hat:

So far i have sourced the following...

76mm x 1500mm copper pipe

2 x reducing tees 76mm x 76mm x 28mm

end caps x2

So far £101

Not sure if i have missed anything..my thinking is i could squeeze 5 x 15mm pipe in it but i think it will be to tight to get tubing over end..the benefit with 15mm pipe is that the silicone tube with 1/2" ID almost welds to the pipe:razz: so no need for clips..i could reduce to 4 x 15mm..but then i am defeating the object of going large...ideally i want straight 10mm copper but cant find it..does it exist ?

 

[AFewTooMany]

This is seriously cool. The efficiency might be improved slightly if you fit baffles on the water side. Although may make it too complicated to build but would give the water a helical movement along the length.

 

[sledgehammer]

hi
fantastic build any chance you could create and publish a BOM (Bill of Materials)
parts required
quantity
cost
Suggested place to get parts
where i am i v much doubt the plumbers will have or get in any 54mm pipe or fittings where did you get the anti kink springs too


steve

 

[Vossy1]

Hi Steve, Bob no longer uses this forum so I dont think you'll get an answer to your question.

 

[loady]

I have already started a parts list... I looked into ss tube but not sure of soldering ss to copper. The links I provided have most of the parts and deliver for free over £50. I wanted to ask bob where he got straight lengths of 10mm copper.. I can only find it coiled and don't fancy trying to get it straight.