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Interested in all the kegging replies. I'm probably 50:50 kegs/bottles and actually prefer some of my bottled beers. Is it just ease of use, or is the product better? (not just clearer).
I don't actually mind bottling, find it quite soothing...
 
Interested in all the kegging replies. I'm probably 50:50 kegs/bottles and actually prefer some of my bottled beers. Is it just ease of use, or is the product better? (not just clearer).
I don't actually mind bottling, find it quite soothing...
Better quality. Both with hoppier beers and with aging other beers.
 
Interesting. Can see the benefits in hoppy/hazy brews, but some of my best (Belgians, stouts) have enjoyed a long stay in a bottle...
 
Kegging for me too.

Most recently my Nukatap counter pressure bottle filler. I found bottling a chore, and because I was kegging everything I ended up being reluctant to enter competitions, forum swaps etc. Now it’s quite easy to do and I’ll happily fill a bottle or 2 for friends, swaps or comps.
 
I think for me, the game changer was joining this forum. I'd read books and brewed in the past, but the depth of knowledge here and experience has enabled me to make beers considerable better than many I've bought in pubs. This includes simple info about water treatment, temp control, mash temp etc, as well as tips and learning from other people's mistakes. I'd also second all of the posts previously!! 🍻
 
Can a small variable in temp make a difference I'd love to know
Not really as long as you are within the range of the yeast, so a couple of degrees wont hurt. Just have to remember, fermenting yeast produces thermal energy so can lift the temperature up to 8 C above ambient, 1 C from outer to centre of fermenter.
 
Temperature control fermentation and cold crash with either pressure or balloon measures to avoid air being sucked back in when cold crashing.
Sorry, but what are these “balloon measures” you speak of?
 
Not really as long as you are within the range of the yeast, so a couple of degrees wont hurt. Just have to remember, fermenting yeast produces thermal energy so can lift the temperature up to 8 C above ambient, 1 C from outer to centre of fermenter.
Hi Foxy, is that the same in a fermentation fridge aswell? Or is the temp sorted in there? Should I just tape the inkbird sensor onto my fermenter for the best result? Cheers.
 
Hi Foxy, is that the same in a fermentation fridge aswell? Or is the temp sorted in there? Should I just tape the inkbird sensor onto my fermenter for the best result? Cheers.
That's what I do for my crash cooling in the fridge, tape the temperature probe on the side of the vessel with some insulation, same for fermenting.
 
That's what I do for my crash cooling in the fridge, tape the temperature probe on the side of the vessel with some insulation, same for fermenting.
Niceone, thanks for the quick reply. I've got the fridge, the inkbird and the heater. I've just got to put it all together. Life's got in the way lately. Have a good Sunday. Cheers.
 
You should treat any water that is going into the beer.
Water is the main constituent of beer and sometimes over looked by brewers me included so I am giving you advice I do not always follow to the letter:laugh8::?::laugh8:
 
Interested in all the kegging replies. I'm probably 50:50 kegs/bottles and actually prefer some of my bottled beers. Is it just ease of use, or is the product better? (not just clearer).
I don't actually mind bottling, find it quite soothing...
I've only just started kegging (2 Kegged and serving brews) buy I'm finding the product much better. It's the carbonation and head that is making the biggest difference to me - a much tighter and longer lasting foam. It really is just like a good Kegged beer from the pub. The downside is, it's sooo much easier to just pull a cheeky 1/2 as you're passing.
 
1. Temperature control of the fermentation process
2. Water treatment (including mash pH) nd understanding the role each parameter is playing
3. Kegging
4. Research, research, research when building recipes. Getting away from brewing to style numbers and moving to how I want the beer to taste and feel.
 
You should treat any water that is going into the beer.
Water is the main constituent of beer and sometimes over looked by brewers me included so I am giving you advice I do not always follow to the letter:laugh8::?::laugh8:
That's the way I see it too but I don't see Camden tablet additions to the sparge water bring recommend as a rule. I do keep meaning to get around to some more, in depth, water treatment but chemistry has never been my strong point and I seem to glaze over every time I start studying it (and that's before I have a beer).
 
Getting away from brewing to style numbers and moving to how I want the beer to taste and feel.
I'm glad it's not just me! I often begin my brews with a 'I wonder what a .... with some .... and a bit of ..... would be like? It's part of the fun for me although following a recipe for your first few brews helps to build your knowledge and confidence.
 
Interested in all the kegging replies. I'm probably 50:50 kegs/bottles and actually prefer some of my bottled beers. Is it just ease of use, or is the product better? (not just clearer).
I don't actually mind bottling, find it quite soothing...
Personally I mostly use kegs for my session beers, not having to spend an hour or so bottling a 4.2% bitter just makes life easier also maybe it is purely psychosomatic but I do reckon bitter and mild taste better from a keg. But strong beers that are going to need months of conditioning those I bottle.
 
Biggest single improvement I got was changing from malt extract brewing to mashing grain. The best thing to do with campden tablets is to throw them out of the window! IMO
 

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