The Dummies' Guide to Brewzilla

[private4587]

A video detailing the clean up operation after the FV has been filled

do you know if a video was ever created

 

[Manxnorton]

Hi guys n girls.
I was humming n harring which net system I could replace my old GF.
I chuffed this apeared as I was getting bit UNSURE on the elements operating, when etc.
Looking at my brewing area ref. The temps that might effect the mash etc.
Also I like mentioning operating the System with a extension lead my outlets are ‘trip switched’ so I’m happy with this.
For me with only 3 brain cells operating, I find manual mode (for now not getting myself confused on AUTO) seems nearly similar to my GF, which I got ok with.
So in ‘Dangerous Brian’s’ style I’m going to print a ‘Brian’s guide’ (fools guide)
Of when I operate the elements.
Updrading my old GF would prop cost as much as a Brewzilla.
lesst I can use the GF for HLT.
Thanks for listening to my waffle lol.
Keep safe.
Bri

 

[GaSh65]

Hi all, very interesting thread.
I've just done my second All Grain and as much as I enjoy making beer, and usually have sufficient time in which to do it, I do find it really does take a while.
I read a 'how to' guide on here and then bought myself a 15 litre pot to make it in. The guide said it should take about three hours, but start to finish for me was over four hours.
Other than the ability to make larger batches of beer, I'm guessing the appeal of a Brewzilla would be that it will expedite the whole brewing process and make the transition from one stage to another quicker and easier?
I've seen that BrewKeg tap has a Brewzilla 35L Gen3.1.1 bundle for £380 and I'm severely tempted, so any advice on the pros and cons would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Philthebrewer]

Hi GaSh65. I am happy to report that as a regular Brewzilla user, the results are good beer and the equipment give you all you need to control the results. However I don't think that you can expect to reduce the time involved. My normal brew day from start of grain milling to end of clean up is about 6 hours. I could reduce this by 30 minutes by milling the day before. I could also reduce it by cutting the boil to 30 minutes (as recommended by David Heath), however the mashing takes the time it takes and the cleanup is important. If you go for the more automated mash cycle of a braumeister (which I have at my other location) then the brew day still takes 6 hours but I can go out and confidently leave the machine to do its full mash cycle in say 2 hours, so the actual attendance is much reduced. The brewzilla requires regular checking of temperature and occasional stirring of the mash, in my experience.

If patience is a virtue then brewzilla must be good for the soul

Phlip

 

[Mayor of Simpleton]

Great guide. I have just acquired an unused Brewzilla second hand and am eyeing it nervously. It all looks very different to my 3 vessel propane fired set up. I am just in the stages of planning my maiden beer with the Zilla - I am sure I will have lots of questions before the inaugural brew. First one - aside from temperature calibration and thorough cleaning, is there anything else I need to take care of before I brew e.g calculate dead spaces ?

 

[Tess Tickle's Brewery]

I can tell you from experience and brewfather help that the deadspace is 6.75L

My boil off is normally around 3L an hour and I lose about 3 to 3.5L when transferring to the fermenter.

 

[Rodcx500z]

I have a brewzilla, what have i learned, if you want a mash temp of 65c set it at 68c, when mashing in leave for 10 minutes or so for the grain bed to settle before recirculating, when turning the pump off lift the tube out of the wort open the tap fully then turn the pump off if you leave the pipe in the wort and turn the pump off any grain will be sucked back into the pump, if you close the tap then turn the pump off when you remove the arm wort will flow all down the side, i only use mine in manual mode i just find it easier, it is a great bit of kit and you will get great beer

 

[Mayor of Simpleton]

Out of interest, is anyone sparging with cold water?

 

[jezbrews]

I've got a couple of questions.

Firstly, I can't find an explanation of what that hollow tube you screw into the loose malt pipe mesh bottom actually is, like... what is it for? Why is it hollow?

My second question is in regards to the user manual which appears incomplete. On the page for 3. The malt pipe assembly, we are told...

The malt pipe is the pie [sic] that sits inside the boiler and contains your grain. The malt pipe is made up of a top screen and a


The top screen is optional, the system can be used without it if you prefer to gently stir the mash.

there appear multiple lines missing.

 

[Rwilts]

It's an overflow system. If your recirculating and get a stuck mash the liquid will flow back down the pipe to the pump. I have replaced mine with a nut as I always stay with my mash and it makes mashing in easier.

 

[jezbrews]

It's an overflow system. If your recirculating and get a stuck mash the liquid will flow back down the pipe to the pump. I have replaced mine with a nut as I always stay with my mash and it makes mashing in easier.

Thanks!

 

[jezbrews]

It's an overflow system. If your recirculating and get a stuck mash the liquid will flow back down the pipe to the pump. I have replaced mine with a nut as I always stay with my mash and it makes mashing in easier.

Ok so I have another question. I thought I set a timer so that when it reached mashing temp, it would start counting down... however it's not counting down and it's struggling to stay at 65. What am I doing wrong?

Do I need to set the half hour of mash on stage 2 rather than s1 with the heater?

 

[Rwilts]

It's been a long time since I used the programming. I love my brewzilla but just find it easier to manually set everything and run the times in Brewfather. If I recall S1 is used to delay heat up if wanting to set the water to hear up and keep a constant temp. But I could be wrong...

Think this Is posted on page 1 but it's what I used initially.

 

[buddsy]

First brew in a year or so last weekend.

I didnt bother with the top screen as I like to stir maybe halfway through and have done this last couple of brews.

I left the bung on the drain pipe too first time Ive done this.

Tonight I see the chap on the homebrew network reviewing the Gen 4. Seems its got no overflow fitted at all?

What is the point of the top screen? Whats it meant to do other than get in the way?

Just curious.

buddsy

 

[Theoriginalrich]

There are people who have blanked off the overflow pipe hole with a bolt and done away with the pipe and top screen altogether.
I like to do it myself but can’t remember what size to get.

 

[Rwilts]

i bought these. Used one on the overflow pipe hole in the plate and the other on the top plate so I can still use it (if the fancy takes me)

 

[Theoriginalrich]

View attachment 74935i bought these. Used one on the overflow pipe hole in the plate and the other on the top plate so I can still use it (if the fancy takes me)

Nice one @Rwilts I knew it wouldn’t take long for someone to come up trumps.

 

[buddsy]

and the other on the top plate so I can still use it (if the fancy takes me)

So what does the top plate do? A bit of pressure on the bed to keep it down?

buddsy

 

[sifty]

I 'think' it's purpose is to spread the flow to prevent channels forming, so flow is more uniform through the grain. I run with it and just remove if I want to give things a stir, then replace. I haven't used other methods so can't compare, but have great efficiency.

 

[foxy]

So what does the top plate do? A bit of pressure on the bed to keep it down?

buddsy

I think it helps catching all the bits coming back through the return pipe, I use my top plate along with the bottom plate, stir for the first 20-30 minutes to prevent hot/cold spots. By then the starch will have converted. This can easily be felt by the lack of resistance on the paddle.