TETB kegerator build

[Rodcx500z]

I think it is great that you share it for other to use, keep it coming

 

[The-Engineer-That-Brews]

I think it is great that you share it for other to use, keep it coming

Thanks mate

 

[Mash Monster]

I’m a little late coming to the party on this one fascinating! But sadly far above my comprehension I only wish I had the knowledge on both the electrical as well as the software side .
As to the positioning of the temperature probes in the beer I use long thermowells through the bucket lids and get a better result than when taped to the side of the buckets under foam. Just an idea !

 

[The-Engineer-That-Brews]

I’m a little late coming to the party on this one fascinating! But sadly far above my comprehension I only wish I had the knowledge on both the electrical as well as the software side .
As to the positioning of the temperature probes in the beer I use long thermowells through the bucket lids and get a better result than when taped to the side of the buckets under foam. Just an idea !

Thanks @MM - that‘s brilliant idea using a long thermowell through the lid… how long are they? Also when you say a better result vs. measuring the surface temp of the bucket, do you have any figures you can share on that?

 

[-Bezza-]

This thread is great, but mainly because it has pictures. The words are all a bit tricky.

It's tempting me to get 4 little displays to put on mine to show the name, style and abv of my beer. No idea how to actually do it though!

 

[The-Engineer-That-Brews]

Regrading @Mash Monster suggestion to use a long thermowell through the lid, it looks like 300 and even 400mm ones are available, eg the one below. Unfortunately many of the listings aren‘t especially forthcoming about the internal diameter, but I suspect they’re pretty standard. IIRC my sensors are 6mm diameter.

The reason I’m particularly interested in this idea is that I use lots of the DS18B20 digital sensors at several different points in my process (mashing and fermentation) because they are cheap, easily available, accurate and easy to interface.

Almost universally these sensors come packaged in epoxy-sealed SS 6mm cans which are fully waterproof (great) but with PVC leads - not so great. PVC isn‘t food safe and I don’t really want it dangling in my beer. Fortunately I have managed to get a few with silicone leads, which are the ones I drop into the grain bed while I’m mashing; but I discovered the hard way that very annoyingly they weren’t epoxy sealed so I had to attempt to sort that out myself.

Putting thermowells through the side of my brewing vessels really didn’t appeal for several reasons, including getting in the way while cleaning. But coming down from the lid could work much better.

 

[Mash Monster]

Thanks @MM - that‘s brilliant idea using a long thermowell through the lid… how long are they? Also when you say a better result vs. measuring the surface temp of the bucket, do you have any figures you can share on that?

My original thermowells were 30cm long which I use in bucket lids I also have some Kegland ‘Fermzilla’ thermowells that are 60cm long and can be cut down easily and If I was starting out again I would go along this route as the kegland thermowell can be dismantled without undoing the bulk head fitting . As to ‘evidence’ of better results I don’t have figures that I can share ( my brain doesn’t work that way) What I can say is that I use ispindel’s to monitor gravity and temperature. Since using thermowells the difference between the recorded temperature on the inkbird probe is within 0.5 - 1°C to that of the Ispindel when taped to the side it was often 2°C + either way. I’ve also noticed that I don’t seem to over or under shoot my target temperature as much and the inkbird doesn’t seem to be ‘hunting’ switching the compressors on and off quickly.
An added feature of the KL thermowell is that you can raise or lower it depending if the volume of the wort. You can even score the outside of the thermowell which allows it to click into position in the fitting if you want to providing repeatable positioning brew after brew.
Sorry I can’t be more scientific and sounding like an advert for Kegland but it works for me

 

[Mash Monster]

Regrading @Mash Monster suggestion to use a long thermowell through the lid, it looks like 300 and even 400mm ones are available, eg the one below. Unfortunately many of the listings aren‘t especially forthcoming about the internal diameter, but I suspect they’re pretty standard. IIRC my sensors are 6mm diameter.

The reason I’m particularly interested in this idea is that I use lots of the DS18B20 digital sensors at several different points in my process (mashing and fermentation) because they are cheap, easily available, accurate and easy to interface.

Almost universally these sensors come packaged in epoxy-sealed SS 6mm cans which are fully waterproof (great) but with PVC leads - not so great. PVC isn‘t food safe and I don’t really want it dangling in my beer. Fortunately I have managed to get a few with silicone leads, which are the ones I drop into the grain bed while I’m mashing; but I discovered the hard way that very annoyingly they weren’t epoxy sealed so I had to attempt to sort that out myself.

Putting thermowells through the side of my brewing vessels really didn’t appeal for several reasons, including getting in the way while cleaning. But coming down from the lid could work much better.

Yep those are the original ones that I use. I don’t bother with fixing them to the lids with the1/2 metal thread but prefer to use the cable gland to attach them. Which makes it easier for cleaning and storing

 

[The-Engineer-That-Brews]

My original thermowells were 30cm long which I use in bucket lids I also have some Kegland ‘Fermzilla’ thermowells that are 60cm long and can be cut down easily and If I was starting out again I would go along this route as the kegland thermowell can be dismantled without undoing the bulk head fitting . As to ‘evidence’ of better results I don’t have figures that I can share ( my brain doesn’t work that way) What I can say is that I use ispindel’s to monitor gravity and temperature. Since using thermowells the difference between the recorded temperature on the inkbird probe is within 0.5 - 1°C to that of the Ispindel when taped to the side it was often 2°C + either way. I’ve also noticed that I don’t seem to over or under shoot my target temperature as much and the inkbird doesn’t seem to be ‘hunting’ switching the compressors on and off quickly.
An added feature of the KL thermowell is that you can raise or lower it depending if the volume of the wort. You can even score the outside of the thermowell which allows it to click into position in the fitting if you want to providing repeatable positioning brew after brew.
Sorry I can’t be more scientific and sounding like an advert for Kegland but it works for me

Brilliant - thanks that's a great tip

 

[The-Engineer-That-Brews]

Less than a tenner from G'EB what's not to like

 

[Mash Monster]

Less than a tenner from G'EB what's not to like

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Just one word of caution ! Make sure you cut them down to length as it’s easy to poke yourself in the eye with an overlong thermowell . I was lucky just a small cut to my face but other users haven’t been so lucky !!!!

 

[The-Engineer-That-Brews]

Just one word of caution ! Make sure you cut them down to length as it’s easy to poke yourself in the eye with an overlong thermowell . I was lucky just a small cut to my face but other users haven’t been so lucky !!!!

Maybe a rubber ball on the end then

 

[whitie.]

Looking great TETB!

Mine is now complete, although I have not gone to the lengths that you have with yours.
Thought I'd post here rather than ANOTHER kegerator thread.

Used a donor SMEG fridge that cost me £50 on FB Marketplace, and 4 x CMB/CM Becker V10 taps.
Already had 2 kegs in my shed, gas, lines etc, so I just need another 2 of the narrow 19L kegs to fill her up.
They'll fit according to the tape measure.
Only other thing I bought was an STC-1000 as the thermostat was iffy and the fridge was icing up. That's why it was only £50...

Good luck finishing yours.


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Hey I’m thinking of going the same path and wanted to know a bit more about your setup.

Were you able to fit the 4 kegs inside? I currently have 2 with the slightly wider rim near de bottom, would I have to go for the slimmer design for the other 2?

Is the gas bottle inside the fridge or outside? If it’s outside, where did you drill the fridge to run the gas line?

What temp setting do you run the actual fridge on (not the controller)? Also, seeing that your controller is at the bottom, how are you running the temp probe into the fridge?

I’d be really thankful if you can reply my questions. Cheers!

 

[chopps]

Hey I’m thinking of going the same path and wanted to know a bit more about your setup.

Were you able to fit the 4 kegs inside? I currently have 2 with the slightly wider rim near de bottom, would I have to go for the slimmer design for the other 2?

Is the gas bottle inside the fridge or outside? If it’s outside, where did you drill the fridge to run the gas line?

What temp setting do you run the actual fridge on (not the controller)? Also, seeing that your controller is at the bottom, how are you running the temp probe into the fridge?

I’d be really thankful if you can reply my questions. Cheers!

Hi, I used 4 slim ones and they fit 2 x 2. Wider ones will go but you may only get three.
Gas bottle behind the fridge and theres a good spot in the very bottom right corner, almost on the floor of the fridge. If you get down low you'll see it from the rear. Just the plastic interior, no wires or pipes. Use long shanks through the door, there's a good 2-3" of insulation. STC 1000 temp probe goes in through the drain hole easily and the wiring runs underneath the fridge. Fridge is set to 4C usually