Tesco kettle element has changed

[Greenhorn]

I'm in the process of building a boiler as per the "build a boiler" instructible.

I bought two of the Tesco budget kettles. They are no longer Value and have changed to Basics. I thought it might have just been the packaging that had changed.

But the kettle has changed and is no longer suitable for use in a boiler made in this way. The switch is not a separate sealed unit but is now just a simple two part metal contact.

This is completely exposed when the element is removed. And unless I've missed something, it's got 240v running through it.

So, I need to source a new kettle.

I'll take a look at ASDAs 5 quid offering and let you know.

Of course, if someone knows an alternative that works, let me know.

 

[IainM]

Cheers for that. This was on my to-do list, so you've probably saved me a few bob :thumb:

Let us know how you get on with the ASDA one.

 

[Cqr]

I almost got one today, thanks for the heads up

 

[Greenhorn]

Well, after a quick look on youtube, it seems you can use these ones. They just need a bit of a different approach. Essentially there are a load of copper elements in the switch unit which form the auto cutout and low water cut out features. These, along with the switch can be removed, leaving only the actual power prongs for the element itself.

So you just loose the switch. Which isn't actually a bad thing as it means that you don't have any loose wires dangling around all over the shop.

I think I'll take another look at my Tesco ones and see if I can get them to work., If I end up destroying one, it's only a fiver lost.

If it all works I'll do a write up.

 

[Greenhorn]

Ok, I've taken one of my kettles apart and had a better look at it. It appears we're all good, with a slight mod to the original method.

So, first up, we get all the tools we're likely to need.



First up, remove the two screws on the bottom of the kettle.

Tesco seem to have cottoned on to the fact that their cheap kettles are being pilfered for brewing, as they've changed the screws for security Triwings, which you'll either need the appropriate bit for (No.1 size) or just drill them out as you won't need them.


Next up, pull the rear cowl loose to reveal the rear side of the element.


you need to remove the three circled screws. Be careful though as the bottom right one, (with the earthing strip under it) is pretty tight and they're made of cheese. And you don't want to bugger these screws up as you'll need them. Actually, it's bottom right as you look at it in reality. In the photo it's at the top.


So, with it all apart, this is what we have.


You can see that the design of the plastic housing has changed and the switch is now an integral part instead of a separate unit, on the right side of the housing. I've ringed the two housing screws which you can throw away.



The three rings show the three safety features of the kettle. from the left we have the boil cutoff, low level cutoff and overheat cutoff. The only one we're concerned about is the boil cutoff (obviously). This is a simple matter of removing the bimetallic circle which is ringed. And after that, you can just progress as per the original Instructible.


Actually, thinking about it, I may also need to remove the overheat cutoff if I'm going to be producing a rolling boil for an hour or more.


If that turns out to be the case, then you can lever off the housing cover like this.



Inside you'll see this.


Ringed are the two remaining cutouts. The big beige actuator controls the low level cutout (i think) and the little copper arm in the other ring is actuated by another bimetallic circle which can be seen in the previous photos, via a little grey rod which will probably fall out of the case. No matter, removing this rod and the beige actuator will cancel out both of the remaining cutouts. The cover can now replaced and secured with the central brass tack which needs to be pressed in place.



So there we go. All sorted, hopefully. You could just mount the housing as the Instructible guy does, but I think I might CAD up and then 3D print an outer casing which will seal over the housing and hopefully make the whole thing a little safer.

If it works out, I'll be happy to take orders.:smile:

 

[serum]

I think the Argos kettles are still the same as the old Tesco ones

 

[simon12]

Not checked recently but Morrisons & wilko both used to do suitable ones as well.

 

[Greenhorn]

I think the Argos kettles are still the same as the old Tesco ones

I've just had a look and it appears to be the same as mine. Obviously it's impossible to tell without actually physically taking one apart.

 

[Speccy]

Loving the ingenuity on show here, but if anyone's not feeling quite so adventurous I've had great results with cheapo eBay elements:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AC-220V-1-5KW-Heating-Element-Heater-Heating-Tube-for-Electric-Kettle-/290913584715

Despite looking a bit flimsy a pair of them give an almighty rolling boil and they've seen me through a few brews so far with no problems.

 

[Toredan]

Loving the ingenuity on show here, but if anyone's not feeling quite so adventurous I've had great results with cheapo eBay elements:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AC-220V-1-5KW-Heating-Element-Heater-Heating-Tube-for-Electric-Kettle-/290913584715

Despite looking a bit flimsy a pair of them give an almighty rolling boil and they've seen me through a few brews so far with no problems.

How hard were these to wire?

 

[Greenhorn]

How hard were these to wire?

I know you're referring to Speccy's post, but it made me realise that actually, the new tesco kettle does have the advantage over the old one in that it needs no rewiring at all.

 

[simon12]

I have used the Tesco and ebay types about 2 years ago and don't remember having to do any wiring on either. With the Tesco kettle you just take off the element and the bit on the back and reassemble them on a plastic bucket using the seal from the kettle as well.

 

[Greenhorn]

I can't say about the older tesco design from first hand. But in the original boiler instructible, the switch is a separate unit from the element housing, and the chap removes it.

 

[Toredan]

So the new tesco kettle requires no wiring? I am notoriously bad with electrics hahah!

 

[Greenhorn]

So the new tesco kettle requires no wiring? I am notoriously bad with electrics hahah!

No. There's a long thread about it here, which i just discovered.

http://www.thehomebrewforum.co.uk/showthread.php?t=30396

 

[Speccy]

How hard were these to wire?

The eBay elements don't need any wiring or modification at all! That's the beauty of them. The hardest part is cutting the holes in the bucket. Once that's done the elements just slot into place and all you need to do is put in the screws and check for leaks. They don't come with power cables but you may well have some lying around, or otherwise 10A hot condition sockets are £2.89 each from Maplin.