Temperature Controllers for Brew Fridge

[periolus]

Okay - so I am thinking about a Brew Fridge, if I can get my hands on a free fridge! I have looked at the STC-1000, supplied by the forum sponsor Cedaronics. I have also now seen a TC-10.

Question is - can I use the STC-1000 for heating and cooling to control the brew fridge? The TC-10 also allows 0.1C steps to set the range, but is the STC-1000 only programmable in steps of 1C?

Any experiences or thoughts on either?

Let me know!

Ta!

 

[Mark1964]

we have a tc 10 connected to a beer chiller to control ferments and temp etc it does a great job and generally i assume they are cheaper than the 1000. Its controlling ferment temp at the moment on the beer i made yesterday

 

[periolus]

Nice one. I will have to look into this more! This will be a project for later in the year, but I am planning a fridge with a 60W heating tube in the bottom of it to provide heat when the fridge isn't cooling.

Eventually, when I have some more money (2015 maybe!!) I will try the keggerator. Need cornies first though! Oh, the planning of an Empire is a good way to spend time!

 

[Mark1964]

we have a 60 watt tube heater for heating

thats the tc 10 rigged up to chiller

inside the fermenting cupboard

 

[BrewDan]

I'm really looking forward to being able to ferment at the right temps, I have a feeling it's why I had a bad taste in a Mexican cerveza i made last year.

Bought one of those 60w tubular heaters last night, just awaiting a price shipped on the temperature controller from one of our new sponsors.

 

[Mark1964]

it does make life a hell of alot easier you can then ferment pilsners and lagers down to 11 degrees we did a pilsner a couple of weeks ago and could mess with the temp just by altering the tc 10

 

[Dave1970]

STC-1000 sets in 0.1 degree increments too, and yes it does heating & cooling. You just have 2 sockets...one for the fridge and one for the tube heater... like this

 

[dennisking]

I bought the STC-1000 from Cedaronics as I could not be arsed with all the wiring etc. and was very pleased with the product and the service.

 

[Runwell-Steve]

The one supplied from Cedaronics can also be used for controlling your HLT if you so desired as it has a 40 Amp relay biult in on the heating side.

 

[periolus]

The one supplied from Cedaronics can also be used for controlling your HLT if you so desired as it has a 40 Amp relay biult in on the heating side.

Now THAT is interesting. I was planning on a sight glass / thermometer combo on my HLT, but this would mean I wouldn't need to bother with thermo and could have an extended breakfast whilst leaving the controller to keep my liquor at the perfect temp! Bonus!

I also want it for monitoring chilling and then controlling fermentation temp, but then if have something fermenting when I want to do another brew then I might need ANOTHER one! Oh, and a Brew Fridge. Sod it, shall I just buy them all?

Can't wait! VERY excited about the build now. :

 

[periolus]

Just found this thread:

viewtopic.php?f=23&t=16401

Do the controllers from this guy that are being talked about support the 13A throughput for HLT, like the ones from our new sponsor, or have those been custom upgraded for homebrew use? A 40A relay was mentioned and that isn't shown in any instruction documents, hence the question.

I don;t want to buy one from HK and then find I can't use it for my HLT! My brother-in-law is an electrician, so he can help wire the thing up if necessary.

 

[Runwell-Steve]

The ones from Hong Kong are just tempereature controllers, some are rated at 5 Amp, some at 10 Amp. None of them will control an HLT on its own.

In order to control an HLT you need to use the heating switch in the temperature controller, to control an external relay, which can support the full 13 Amp load.

The ones from Cedaronics have this Relay included in the box, the things from Hong Kong are just the temperature controllerm without the box, the wiring, or the relay.

I bought all mine from Hong Kong as at the time there was no alternative, if I was buying one now it would be the pre built one from Cedaronics.

 

[shocker]

Once you have gone to the cost of the controler , an IP66 box , glands , cable , sockets and a relay , well , it adds up to just about what Cedar are charging for one . If you have the parts laying around , have the time and are competent then it may be worth it , but its marginal . I know this because I just looked into it because I am a cheapskate ! :

 

[craigite]

The ones from Hong Kong are just tempereature controllers, some are rated at 5 Amp, some at 10 Amp. None of them will control an HLT on its own.

In order to control an HLT you need to use the heating switch in the temperature controller, to control an external relay, which can support the full 13 Amp load.

The ones from Cedaronics have this Relay included in the box, the things from Hong Kong are just the temperature controllerm without the box, the wiring, or the relay.

I bought all mine from Hong Kong as at the time there was no alternative, if I was buying one now it would be the pre built one from Cedaronics.

I worked out that with a small kettle element the 10amp output was sufficient, so my HLT is direct off the STc-1000. Not suggesting other should do this as I'm no electrician but the maths suggest it's ok and so far it works fine.
I also use an STC-1000 to direct power the fridge and heat tube in the fermentor fridge. Going to fit power off switches to stop the fridge kicking on as after the heating circuit goes off because of the residual heat of the heating tube.

 

[Cedaronics]

The ones from Hong Kong are just tempereature controllers, some are rated at 5 Amp, some at 10 Amp. None of them will control an HLT on its own.

In order to control an HLT you need to use the heating switch in the temperature controller, to control an external relay, which can support the full 13 Amp load.

The ones from Cedaronics have this Relay included in the box, the things from Hong Kong are just the temperature controllerm without the box, the wiring, or the relay.

I bought all mine from Hong Kong as at the time there was no alternative, if I was buying one now it would be the pre built one from Cedaronics.

Copy that!

In fact, I'm putting this relay in ALL the controllers now, even the single output ones; I know, or think I know, that if a single output one were to be used it would be for fridge control, but it's nice ot have the option for heating control as all - assuming a single outputted controller would appeal anyway?

And the reason I say that is that these single output controllers have the choice to choose between heat or cool - they're aren't like the heat or cool as sometimes confusingly gets referred to about the dual controllers. It's a question of description this difference - the dual output controllers like the SCT-1000 have the cooling and heating circuits on separate lines, whilst the single out controller you have to choose between the two - the power all comes out the same way, of course.

 

[Cedaronics]

Once you have gone to the cost of the controler , an IP66 box , glands , cable , sockets and a relay , well , it adds up to just about what Cedar are charging for one . If you have the parts laying around , have the time and are competent then it may be worth it , but its marginal.

Tell me about it!

I worked out that with a small kettle element the 10amp output was sufficient, so my HLT is direct off the STc-1000. Not suggesting other should do this as I'm no electrician but the maths suggest it's ok and so far it works fine.

Craig, they will work, as you say probably without problem - it's the wear on the smaller relay that will be the issue in the long term, that's the reason for the larger relay.

 

[periolus]

Cedaronics - your controller boxes look absolutely awesome. I will be getting one once my brewery is nearly built, as I definitely want one to control my HLT, and then to monitor chilling and then control fermentation temp, albeit just with a heat belt to start with while I work on a way to convince my wife to let me put a large fridge in the garage :whistle:

What temperature will the sensor supplied operate to? Is it okay to about 90C?

 

[Cedaronics]

Periolus - thanks, it's taken enough effort to get this far!

The NTC sensor is 2m long (but allow for losing some as it is inside the enclosure), and has a range of -50°C -to +99°C.

You can find a manual online here:

http://mashmaster.com.au/UserFiles/2321-Files/file/brewmate.pdf

Hope to hear from you.

Tim

ps, heat belts were mentioned just then... does anyone think that the 10W p/metre heat trace I have could be put to good purpose as a brew belt, or is this barking up the wrong tree? Are th eohter available belt more than 10W p/m?

 

[periolus]

Could one of these be used for example to operate a solenoid relay to open a tap to operate an immersion chiller inside an FV for enough time (short burst) to lower the temperature very slightly? Or is that just REALLY stupid?

BTW, I am not planning on doing that, it just came to me on the toilet and I thought I would run the viability past you. One of those 'never made it past the bog' project ideas.

 

[Cedaronics]

Well, a solonoid IS a relay in its own right, so I guess you'd have to do some research about what you are trying to actuate - what sort of valves, taps etc. How big? What sort of demands might you be making on the controller? Are they going to exceed 13A, in which case won't help you here. You might be better off running the viability via someone who has already done what you suggest. Sounds like you might not want to do that now, but if the option were there... maybe you'd make the leap?