TC-10

[BarnsleyBrewer]

Specifications

Control Temperature Range: -40C to 60C (-40F to 140F)
Operating Temperature: -10 to 55°C
Relative Humidity: up to 85%
Sensor: NPT
Cooling Relay Capacity: 16A : 3800W (max) 240V AC
Heating Relay Capacity: 10A : 2400W (max) 240V AC
Power Supply: 240V AC ± 10% 50 to 60Hz
Normal Consumption: <2W
Delay Protection Time Setting: 0 to 255 Minutes
Unit Size: 75 x 38x 70 mm (W x H x D)
Sensor Cable Length: 2 metre

 

[Vossy1]

Does anyone know what temperature difference can be set with this item, and also what delay there is on the cooling side

 

[jamesb]

Does anyone know what temperature difference can be set with this item, and also what delay there is on the cooling side

Temperature difference: +/- 10 degC
Cooling delay: 0 to 255 minutes

 

[neilt]

The TC-10 temperature difference is 0.1c to 20c. You can download the full manual at
http://www.forttex.com/downloads/TC10.pdf.

Hope this helps.

Neilt

 

[Vossy1]

Cheers guys, will have a close look :thumb:

 

[Rabmaxwell]

My TC-10 arrived this afternoon so i have been a busy little bee :) got a new box for my ATC as well.

So i am giving myself a treat :party:

Cheers

 

[Wez]

Rab, that setup is coming along so well

Whats the opening times again?

 

[Vossy1]

Looking good Rab :thumb:

 

[Vossy1]

Can any of you TC-10 owners post a pic of how it attaches to enclosures/panels?
Has it got spring clips/lugs on the body, or does it have a rear screw type arrangement?
Many thanks

 

[beerboy]

What settings are everyone using on their TC-10? I am using it for fermenting and have it like this:

HSC Cooling Hysteresis at 0.6
HSH Heating Hysteresis at 0.3
dbd Dead zone at 0.0
rt Cooling delay at 3

Will this keep it accurate enough for a lager ferment without knackering the fridge compressor?

Can any of you TC-10 owners post a pic of how it attaches to enclosures/panels?
Has it got spring clips/lugs on the body, or does it have a rear screw type arrangement?

Sorry Vossy - I have mine just pushed in securely but here's some piccies of the lugs and the tc-10 where they fix on - hope this helps.

 

[Vossy1]

Thanks bb :thumb:

 

[Rabmaxwell]

Hello all the shape of the probe for my TC-10 doesnt fit through my push fitting on the lid of my fermenter but luckily i tested a ATC probe & the TC-10 also works with this probe aswell. :party:

 

[Rabmaxwell]

Hello all if you need a slim line stainless probe for your TC-10 Fortex now have another type available.
http://www.forttex.com/index.php?main_p ... ucts_id=25
What's peoples thoughts on the quality of these probes as i have used sheathed probes of similar construction in the past & they would fail after so long & was always worried about germs getting behind the sheath.Look's like it's hard to get the old stainless style probes now. :)

( Old Style ATC-800 Probe )

 

[Vossy1]

I use a similar purpose made probe and it's been fully immersed without problems, though I wouldn't say it's 'good practice'.
If in doubt why not have one made, will cost about double the price but well worth it.
Mine were made by Watch Hill

 

[bolty]

I am currently in the middle of making a kegerator, and am about to order my TC-10. Should I ask for it with a stainless probe?

 

[Vossy1]

I would. It's less prone to getting scratched than a plastic one :thumb:

 

[bolty]

Cheers Vossy :thumb:

 

[doch]

I'm thinking of getting one of the TC-10s for my fridge also. I live in the Town next to Forttext, so I'll just drop by.

But just a side topic, can anyone tell me how to make a clean/sealed hole through the fridge? From some of the pictures, there looks to be grommets or something you can buy for cables and hoses etc?

Thanks,
Colin.

 

[Vossy1]

You could use a bulk head fitting, just look on E-bay for John Guest BHF.
Grommets tend to be for single walls, fridges tend to have double walls, but no reason why you can't use 2. Personally, I drilled a hole, put the pipe through, then used silicone sealant to seal it.