Straight to FV after chilling, or let it settle first?

[The-Engineer-That-Brews]

I've just read this comment in a recipe for Dunkelweizen, which is a beer I'm brewing for the first time later this week:

[...] Chill the wort rapidly to 62 °F (17 °C), let the break material settle, rack to the fermenter, pitch the yeast and aerate thoroughly.​

Is that reference to the 'break material' the slightly curdled looking stuff I'm used to seeing in the output from the boiler?

So far I've after the boil I've just drained the Burco (through the false bottom) and straight into the FV via my counterflow chiller, but it usually looks pretty murky in there.
Would it be a better idea to go into an intermediate bucket and let it settle first? If so, any idea how long I should leave it before transfer to the FV?

Thanks in advance
TETB

 

[Benfleet Brewery]

When I did BIAB in the Peco I always let it settle with the lid on for 30-40 minutes before opening the tap into the FV. In that time the crud had all settled to the bottom of the Peco and I‘d get about 21l of clear wort out into the FV. Now I have a Brewzilla but the crud settles on top of of the false bottom and is just gets sucked into the FV regardless of whether or not it’s left to settle. I do get 23l now but 2l left in the FV so swings and roundabouts really. I would ideally like to be able to get the false bottom out after chilling and let it all settle as I did before but hey ho. I’m only a couple of brews in on the new Brewzilla so haven’t tested any of the beers made using it yet.

 

[terrym]

Most probably.
Bit more here
http://howtobrew.com/book/section-1/boiling-and-cooling/cooling-the-wort

 

[The-Engineer-That-Brews]

the crud settles on top of of the false bottom and is just gets sucked into the FV regardless of whether or not it’s left to settle

Guess that's what I'm seeing too... so maybe go into a clean bucket and let it settle first, before racking into the FV?

 

[Galena]

Using an immersion chiller it tends to take a while to chill anyway so once it reaches <20C I open the tap and by the time its in the FV its down to around 17 anyway. I use BIAB and used to put the hops in a bag but I have started chucking the hops in the kettle and then filtering with a Aldo mesh bag as I decant into the FV and this does remove quite a lot of break material but is a slow process. I always aerate prior to pitching yeast.

 

[The-Engineer-That-Brews]

I always aerate prior to pitching yeast

Me too - using a compressor and an airstone, but it makes a heck of a lot of foam. Thinking vigorously pouring from one bucket to another might be a better option...

 

[The-Engineer-That-Brews]

Very useful point here in the link posted by @terrym :

Rapid cooling also forms the Cold Break. This is composed of another group of proteins that need to be thermally shocked into precipitating out of the wort. Slow cooling will not affect them. Cold break, or rather the lack of it, is the cause of Chill Haze. When a beer is chilled for drinking, these proteins partially precipitate forming a haze. As the beer warms up, the proteins re-dissolve. Only by rapid chilling from near-boiling to room temperature will the Cold Break proteins permanently precipitate and not cause Chill Haze.​

This would seem to imply that "cold break" material won't be present in the wort until after it's been chilled. Consequently it makes sense that if you want to remove it then you need a settling or filtering stage between the counterflow and the FV ...

 

[H0PM0NSTER]

Now I have a Brewzilla but the crud settles on top of of the false bottom and is just gets sucked into the FV regardless of whether or not it’s left to settle.

I have the same setup but find that using whole leaf hops in the robobrew creates a filter bed on the false bottom once it has all settled while the immersion chiller is doing its stuff. The hop filter bed seems to trap a lot of the break material and wort comes out pretty clear with minimal trub in the FV after bottling.

 

[terrym]

Me too - using a compressor and an airstone, but it makes a heck of a lot of foam. Thinking vigorously pouring from one bucket to another might be a better option...

I can never see the point of spending lots of time and effort try to aerate wort or more precisely encourage oxygen to dissolve in wort unless you have a batch bigger than say 30 litres. Oxygen is does not dissolve very well (unlike CO2 which actually forms a weak chemical bond with water), and as soon as you see some foam on top of the wort, my view is that's its, you're done. No more is going to dissolve, it just bubbles out as fast as it is bubbled in. So a couple of minutes at most with a hand driven mixing paddle is all that is needed, certainly if you are only brewing 23 litres or thereabouts.