STC-1000

[shep1984]

Evening All

I am in the market for an STC-1000 to control the brew fridge that I am putting together, but I am not that good (safe) with electronics. I have seen places oversea's selling the STC-1000 in a case pre-wired with the two required plug sockets etc. I have found a few in the UK selling upwards of £80 when the parts cost more like £25.

Just wondering if anyone knew of somewhere to buy a ready made one at a reasonable price.

Thanks

 

[Fil]

even tho its an easy job, and it is trust me, have a search in here as there are a few really simple to follow wiring diagrams about.. it still takes an hour or so to complete the job, buying bits, cutting holes in boxes etc, and afaik its illegal for anyone unqualified to do electrical work.. so the diy option is it unless u want to pay for an electrically qualified fabricator.

the key to making the job simple is a strip of lego brick style connectors

use a 15a rated lego brick, (£shop??)
16a 2.5mm flex for the wiring and leads, sturdy boxes
and cable glands for any cable in/out of boxes. And it should be a safe build.

when attacking the wiring use colour coded wires to make it easy brown for live blue nuetral etc,,

with a lego brick connector with 9 x connection pairs allocate 3 connections to power in, 3 to heating out, and 3 to cooling out.

wire up the pulg and sockets to the respective 3 sets of connectors, then attack connecting up each circuit 1 at a time and its a very straightforward job.

 

[Marcusp]

I've got no experience of electrics either but have just managed to construct two fully working stc1000s as per the YouTube video from home brewing .

Give it a go it really isn't difficult if you take your time

 

[evanvine]

Welcome to the Forum Shep!
I agree with Fil, it is an easy build, the hardest part is cutting the hole for the STC unit.
I do doubt your £25 for parts, the project box alone will cost over £10!

 

[LeithR]

Wiring an STC1000 is a very simple job, HERE is a link to a simple step by step video showing how to do it. You will not be working with live electrics until you come to test it and then it will be inside the box so there is no danger to you. There is a slight problem with the diagram used in that it is slightly different to the wiring diagram shown on some STC1000 units. Follow the wiring diagram shown on your unit in this case. I've built a couple of these and it is very simple and straightforward, as someone else said it takes about 1hr, If you are worried about doing this job on your own get a pal to come round and check your work.

As a comment - the need to use a qualified electrician only applies to domestic wiring, i.e. your house wiring, the wiring/building of hobby electrics is not covered by these regs so you are ok on that score.

Oh! and welcome to the forum, have fun with your brewing!!

 

[UpTheToon]

I (tried) to build one of these last night. I got a pre-drilled case off ebay for about £9 delivered... bargain! However... its tiny.

I was using 1.5mm flex and a strip of 6 connectors but there's no way I can fit the wiring in the space left in the box (and I had to increase the size of the holes). It must be designed for 1mm flex but that seems small.

Morale of the story... I wouldn't bother with this box;

Item no.
151230864984

 

[LeithR]

@UpTheToon,

Thats a shame.

I used an old external DVD/CD case that I had removed the guts from and it worked well. Here's a quick piccy, if you look around you can also get these colour coded glands which I found helpful.

 

[UpTheToon]

@UpTheToon,

Thats a shame.

I used an old external DVD/CD case that I had removed the guts from and it worked well. Here's a quick piccy, if you look around you can also get these colour coded glands which I found helpful.

That looks like a neat job... maybe someone with more patience and handy fingers could fit it all in that ebay box :)

I'm thinking I might just get a 6 way junction box and still use the ebay thing. The junction box will keep most of the cabling and connections separate. It's only going in the outhouse so as long as its safe it doesn't have to be compact.

I found this wiring diagram...
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8491/8264 ... eeabe8.jpg

 

[shep1984]

Hi All

So, just got myself a 2nd hand fridge on Ebay for £16 and have watched the video posted above and now I am (more) confident to give it a go.

Cheers all for the advice and I will let you know how it goes.

 

[shep1984]

OK, So questions already :0)

What AMP rating do the block connectors need to be?

Also, I am looking at heat sources. Brew Belts seem to be quite expensive and as I don't need it to go round the FV seems to be a waste...

I have heard tell that an aquarium heater should do the job? Something like this maybe??
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hidom-Sub...UK_Pet_Supplies_Fish&var=&hash=item3a7cda2901

and if so what wattage? Its an under counter fridge and will only take 1 FV with Krausen Collar.

Also, would you just place this at the bottom of the fridge under the shelf which the FV sits on?

Cheers chaps.

 

[Dave1970]

Also, I am looking at heat sources. Brew Belts seem to be quite expensive and as I don't need it to go round the FV seems to be a waste...

I have heard tell that an aquarium heater should do the job? Something like this maybe??
Cheers chaps.

A tube heater like the 1ft on this page is your best bet for heat - and it would sit under the shelf - make sure your shelf lets the warm air through

 

[winelight]

Yes to tubular heater as suggested above, and yes it does fit under the shelf (I simply screwed mine to the bottom of the fridge) that the FV sits on. Usually people replace the original glass/plastic shelf with a wooden one (because it's stronger).

 

[shep1984]

Cheers Guys

Currently I was planning to sit the FV half on the "lump" for the compressor and half on the glass shelf that protrudes from it.

I was going to do a wooden one and would then drill holes to let the air through, the only issue with this is what it would raise the FV too high for the Krausen to fit... I may have to do some clever engineering.

Maybe put the heat tube in the door so its in front of the FV. Do you think that would work?

I don't want it to touch the FV as i guess you would get hot spots in the wort which i wouldn't have thought would be ideal?

Any suggestions on the block connectors for the wiring?
Cheers

 

[shep1984]

OK, so I have been putting together a bit of a shopping list.

Would really appreciate it if someone who has done one of these could check through and make sure this is all I need and the correct components?

Temp Controller Parts

STC-1000 - £ £15.99

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Digital-S...ial_Automation_Control_ET&hash=item2a24da2af1

Project Box - £9.90

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ABS-BLACK...al_Components_Supplies_ET&hash=item2ecb2eb9b3

Plug / Extension / Electric Cable - 5m - £6.20

Use the Plug as power source for STC-1000 and cut down / reuse the cable for the rest of the wiring from STC contacts to plug sockets in top of the project box.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1WAY-GANG...ectrical_Fittings_MJ&var=&hash=item1c3f6648bb

Plug Socket x 2 Total - £4.18

Do i need the backs also? Or as long as there are no bare wires am I ok?

http://www.screwfix.com/p/british-general-13a-1-gang-double-pole-switched-plug-socket-white/79602#

Terminal Blocks - 15A - £6.65

http://www.screwfix.com/p/15a-terminal-strips-pack-of-10/91532

The intention was to have a all the wiring inside the project box, with 2 plug sockets on the top for Heat / Cool and the STC mounted on the front. Does that look about right?

Cheers

 

[Dave1970]

Sounds about right..a bit like mine! You might want to add a cable gland for where the power cable goes into the box

 

[matth]

This is great, i'm after a temperature controller for my HLT - i have all the bits STC-1000 220v etc, but does anyone have a basic wiring diagram for one that is just connected to an element - no cooling function.

I have been trying to find one on here and am struggling (there must be one somewhere) it's surely simpler!
cheers

 

[Dave1970]

This is great, i'm after a temperature controller for my HLT - i have all the bits STC-1000 220v etc, but does anyone have a basic wiring diagram for one that is just connected to an element - no cooling function.

It's not quite as simple as that, the STC only switches up to 10 amps and it's likely your HLT will draw more current than that. You need to fit a relay, the STC switches the relay and the relay switches the mains

 

[matth]

It's not quite as simple as that, the STC only switches up to 10 amps and it's likely your HLT will draw more current than that. You need to fit a relay, the STC switches the relay and the relay switches the mains

Thanks, i have a standard tesco value element - the same as this one:

http://www.thehomebrewforum.co.uk/showthread.php?t=6998

I'm affraid i have forgotten the what KW it is i think its 2.4 - i'll have to research it again, any way as its only a HLT i am only using 1 element - would that go beyond 10a?
I didn't think it would thats why i went for this STC 1000. i'm afraid my ability with electrics are pretty rudimentary.

Many thanks

 

[Dave1970]

I'm not an electrician either but I think watts/volts=amps

so 2400/230=10.4 amps

not looking good for the STC:-(

 

[winelight]

Well... it's up to you. If the STC-1000 is rated at 10 Amps, no harm's going to come to it at 10.4 Amps - nothing's going to blow up. However, these things are made down to a price, and cheaper devices - even when running at or just below the rated current - will often get uncomfortably hot, or switching contacts will wear out very quickly - that kind of thing. So a relay is definitely advisable.