Sparge arm design

[Northern Brewer]

Spring is approaching at it's about this time that a man starts to think about sparge arm design (amongst other things )

I have my eye on a length of 6mm SS tubing and 6mm compression tee from BES however before I take the plunge I thought I would plunder the combined experience of this forum before commiting the cash.

I'm using the 80L thermos pot for the mash tun, what have others done in terms of sparge arm with this pot?

If I do go the SS route, a 3m length should make 3 sparge arms so if the odd component needs to be made I could get 3 made and share costs.

Cheers
NB

 

[Vossy1]

I have my eye on a length of 6mm SS tubing and 6mm compression tee from BES however before I take the plunge I thought I would plunder the combined experience of this forum before commiting the cash.

Nice The stainless will be a bugger to drill, especially in the BES thickness, but it would look the dogs danglies...those T's ain't cheap either. Just as shiny and does the job just as well would be the ss aerator as in one of your other threads.

Mine from your other thread, heads found here and Tony has a thread for making the spinnys...can't find it at the mo :hmm:
Another design link here

 

[Aleman]

I used something Like this initially, but swapped everything out for 10mm thin wall stainless tube from eBayas it was much lighter than the copper tube and moved more easily. The issue is that it is much harder to drill small holes in stainless . . .I lost count of the number of 0.5mm drill bits I broke before deciding to go for 1mm holes.

Again if I ever feel like making another one, I'll go for thin wall 4mm brass tubing and 0.5mm holes every 5mm.

 

[Vossy1]

Just spent 5 mins looking for that ruddy link :lol:

 

[Northern Brewer]

Thanks guys

so 2 main options, 1.) use the HERMS HX return spreader for sparging too or 2.) use a seperate spinny thing but will be a pig to drill in SS so copper may be the way to go.

Cheers
NB

 

[Vossy1]

The reason I chose to use both the above designs is because I didn't want to stop the recirc just to change heads. I used to swap heads, but I found when I turned the recirc pump of, the mash would 'relax' and move upwards in the tun, then on recirc it was cloudy again
I also got fed up of detaching and attaching 65 deg c metal...not comfortable for the old
pinkies :lol: The copper manifold allowed less liquor head above the mash, but now I don't leave that retention volume towards the end of the mash, stopping sparging when I know the mash has enough runnings left to fill the rest of the boiler and thus leaving the tun with less liquid in it.
It's personal choice at the end of the day, no right or wrong :thumb:

 

[Northern Brewer]

Thanks Vossy

So you used the copper manifold then went to the shiny SS spreader later - got it!

Bit confused about turning on recirc when sparging, I though once mashing was completed you turn off recirc and sparge - or am I missing something

Cheers
NB

 

[Vossy1]

Bit confused about turning on recirc when sparging, I though once mashing was completed you turn off recirc and sparge - or am I missing something

It's not easy to undestand without pictures :grin: my HERMS pipework above. To the right of the pump there are 3 ball valves, which we'll call from left 1,2 and 3.
When ball valves 1+3 are closed and 2 is open that's the standard recirc. If you look above BV1 you'll see another ball valve with the handle missing, this is set to restrict the flow rate to around 2.75ltr/min
At the end of the mash I attach a hose from the HLT to BV 3 (intlet), I also attach a hose to BV1 (outlet) and that goes to the boiler. Then I shut BV2 and open BV1, this diverts the runnings to the boiler. I then start the pump from the HLT and open BV3, this sends the sparge liquor through the HE and cleans all the pipework (from BV3 onwards) in the process.
Naturally, I have to reset the HE pid to sparge temps but it takes very little time to hit it, as the sparge liquor and element combined get it there in 10's of seconds.
I used to have a BV in-line further up the pipework to the HE to restrict the flow to around 2.75ltr/min, but after extensive testing I found the restriction applied by all the pipework reduced the flow to almost exactly that level anyway.
I also initially put a restricting BV above BV3 but on needing to order another BV decided to strip it out and adjust the flow manually.

The system is now auto sparging.
I regulate the flow from the HLT by opening/closing BV 3 slightly, it's really quite easy.

EDITED as duplicated lines
For sparging based on efficiency lets say I get 85%.
Using the batch sparge calculator (top left forum page) I know roughly how much volume the mash holds, lets say 20lts for example. I deduct this figure from the total runnings I need to collect in the boiler, lets say 50ltr, so I sparge 30ltr into the boiler. Having collected 30ltr into the boiler I stop pumping sparge liquor to the mash, and turn the HE PID of. Then it's just a case of collecting the other 20ltrs.

Nowadays, I collect by sugar points, but still know roughly where to stop pumping sparge liquor based on the gravity and volume in the boiler.

 

[Northern Brewer]

Thanks Vossy! all as clear as recirculated wort now

 

[artiums_enteri]

I brew on a more beer 1100. Here is the standard sparge arm that comes on the sculpture. It is the best design I've used in the 8 years I've been brewing.

It has a float switch that is connected to control the sparge water level. The other end is connected to the heat exchanger from the march pump.

 

[Northern Brewer]

Nice design AE, I have seen some food grade float switches howwever for now I'll keep it relatively simple - I'm going stright from a 20L brewery to a 100L shiney HERMS set up so I'll leave this for a future possible tweak :geek:

 

[pjbiker]

Hi, I've been using a 10mm compression T with PTFE tape, spinning on an 'olive', and instead of 10mm copper arms drilled, used 3/8" beer line with the ends blocked with sealant. It is easy to punch some holes in the plastic beer line with a small drill bit, until you obtain the spin and flow rate required, also cheap and easy to replace them.

 

[Monster Mash]

I made mine out of copper with a float switch mounted to it to turn on/off the sparge water.

 

[Darcey]

There is the

I made mine out of copper with a float switch mounted to it to turn on/off the sparge water.

Moster Mash.. there is term that comes close the 'Bar Steward'...

by looking at your set up you are a BrewSteward!!!.. In a very good way :shock:

 

[Loetz]

I have my eye on a length of 6mm SS tubing and 6mm compression tee from BES however before I take the plunge I thought I would plunder the combined experience of this forum before commiting the cash.

Nice The stainless will be a bugger to drill, especially in the BES thickness, but it would look the dogs danglies...those T's ain't cheap either. Just as shiny and does the job just as well would be the ss aerator as in one of your other threads.

Mine from your other thread, heads found here and Tony has a thread for making the spinnys...can't find it at the mo :hmm:
Another design link here

Ok. Now I want one of these, but the shop you link to says they're out of stock. Any ideas where else I can find one?

 

[BarnsleyBrewer]

Nice brewery, home built??

 

[Monster Mash]

Nice brewery, home built??

Yes, completely from scrap yard parts. The pots are old 113L pool filter housings, the stand was an old piece of machinery I stripped down and all of the switches/relays ect.. were picked up at surplus shops.

 

[BarnsleyBrewer]

Nice brewery, home built??

Yes, completely from scrap yard parts. The pots are old 113L pool filter housings, the stand was an old piece of machinery I stripped down and all of the switches/relays ect.. were picked up at surplus shops.

Brill, bet your well proud of her, looks amazing.. :clap: :clap:

BB

 

[Northern Brewer]

Wow - well impressed!! :thumb: :clap:

 

[Loetz]

I have my eye on a length of 6mm SS tubing and 6mm compression tee from BES however before I take the plunge I thought I would plunder the combined experience of this forum before commiting the cash.

Nice The stainless will be a bugger to drill, especially in the BES thickness, but it would look the dogs danglies...those T's ain't cheap either. Just as shiny and does the job just as well would be the ss aerator as in one of your other threads.

Mine from your other thread, heads found here and Tony has a thread for making the spinnys...can't find it at the mo :hmm:
Another design link here

Ok. Now I want one of these, but the shop you link to says they're out of stock. Any ideas where else I can find one?

Morebeer is still out of stock. :|
Hop and Grape wants 22 Pounds to ship it to Austria. :wha:
Any other ideas for me?