Small all grain/extract batches?

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FatherChristmas

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Just wondering if anyone here has any experience on doing mall 1-2 gallon AG brews or just extract brews, I haven't got the money to get a AG set up for 5 gallon brews, or a boiler to do hopping of that much, but I thought it would be fun to do small 1 or 2 demijohn loads of beer, once I've done my fair share of kits.Opinions?

Henry
 
Thanks for the link, interesting read... Looks like I'll be able to sort something out pretty cheaply if i put my mind to it. One quick question, when people say BIAB, does that just refer to brewing with the grain and hops in a bag in the boiler, and not some particular brand?

Henry
 
I do 2 gallon BIAB religiously...

Use the Maxi method, and 2 gallons is easily achievable in a 10L pot. You need little more than a 10L pot, 2 gallon and above FV to cool in, and a 2 gallon FV. Overshoot the OG and you can afford to top up - Use a muslin bag for the hops and you can remove the bittering hops after 60 mins and chuck a tonne of aroma hops in :cheers:
 
I only have the space to ferment 1 gallon batches so that's where I started. My kit comprises of a 6 litre spaghetti pot, one of the kids old muslins, a hot water cylinder jacket to keep the mash warm and a £10 camping stove to do the boil. Cheap as chips...
 
I'm glad to see that the community of "nano-brewers" is growing! I too have space issues (not to mentioning financial issues!) prohibiting me from getting a 25L set-up, so I brew by the gallon - or rather 4.5 L as I'm metric! :grin:

Here's my "shiny" set-up - couldn't help myself, felt like it had to build something!
viewtopic.php?f=13&t=28322

There are a few other threads about on the subject, and I've posted the recipe for my first ever brew:
viewtopic.php?f=14&t=24717

I'm all for the small batch! It's a lot of work for a small return, but the rewards are great!

Dennis
 
Wow thanks for the response, I think I'll have ago at this before the holidays are over, so do you get the water up to strike temp on the stove, and do the boil on the stove too? And do you do a sparge as well?
 
Yup, I've got a 7L or so stockpot for heating up the water and for boiling in. I do sparge, I think what I do it fly-sparging of sorts. If you would like more detail, I'd be happy to share, and feel free to ask questions.

Dennis
 
I would love some more detail if that' ok, do you just use a colander or something similar? And you mentioned you do a "mash out," what's that?
 
The book that got me started was the Brooklyn Brew Shop's Beer Making Book. I'd wanted to start brewing, but didn't have much space, and everything seemed to be geared to doing 19L, 23L or more batches. During a visit to New York, I spoke to a girl manning the Brooklyn Brew Shop's stand at a Christmas Market. Their whole premise it 1 gallon brewing (US - but I've converted to UK gallon, or rather 4.5L).
In the book they basically heat water on a large pot, pop in the grain, stir, turn off the heat and mash for 60-75min, checking temperature every 10mins. If the temperature gets too low, turn on the heat and stir until the temperature is right again. At the end they "mash out", which is raising the temperature to make it easier to get the converted sugar out of the grains.
The next step is the sparge: heat water in a seperate pan, place a large sieve over a big pot or bucket, pour the grains in the sieve, then rinse the grain with the extra water, then re-circulate all the collected liquid (wort) through the grains.
Then on to the boil, where you boil the wort with hops and other flavourings as required by your recipe. You then cool the wort, transfer it to your fermenting vessel (FV) and pitch the yeast.
I don't quite follow this method; before I started, I did some research (and joined this forum), and in that process read How To Brew by John Palmer, an online version available here:
http://www.howtobrew.com/intro.html
One thing I came across in this book was the problem of Hot Side Aeration (he doesn't use that term, but many do), which is oxidation your wort while it's still hot; this is thought to contribute to premature staling of your beer. HSA is a much debated issue - some say it's a myth, some that it's of little importance, while others believe it's more significant than most brewers realise and reccomend trying it out for themselves by brew one batch where oxidation is carefully minimized and one where you do everything you can to aerate the wort whilst hot (according to some until cooler than 30 Celcius). By comparing the end results you should be able to see for yourself the effect of HSA.
I was worried about long-term stability, because I have family in Denmark and I'd like to be able to share my brews with them when they visit, but as that doesn't happen all the time, I thought I'd better try to avoid HSA, which is why I built the mash-tun. It is basically a bucket-in-a-bucket, the inside bucket has a load of holes drilled into it, making a false bottom, which acts as a sieve. The outer bucket has a drain in the centre of the bottom with a pipe - the cooler is there for insulation. Have another look at the build, and I think you'll see what I mean.
Whether you go with a colander or a mash-tun is up to you.

Hope that answers your questions, feel free to ask if you have more!

Dennis
 
Great this is all making a lot more sense to me now, I think I'll try and make a mini 10l mash tun, and maybe have a go at a single malt and single hop beer, something like marris otter and cascade.
 
On that subject FatherChristmas, you can skip the need for a tap etc in the mash tun if you employ the Brew In A Bag method, but do so in a mash tun. Just use a grain bag, drain it out by holding it up, and then tip it into your boiler :thumb: it's only really neccessary to have a tap if you want to sparge properly. Even then, there's this option above the mash tun...

viewtopic.php?f=30&t=18973&hilit=sparging+thingy

Most of the process is pretty simple, but what you wanna ensure is that you find a way to cool and pour off the cold break, or your finished beer may have floaty bits in. My wort goes straight into a 5 gallon fermenter with tap after boiling, submerge the whole thing in a cold bath until it's cool, then pour through the tap into your 1/2 gallon fv :thumb:
 
I think I will make one with a tap to reduce oxidation etc, and I'll chuck a couple of 10l buckets together and perforate the bottom of one. I'll cool off in an ice bath I thiink, thank you all for the help.
 
Make sure to insulate the buckets or you won't be able to maintain your mash temperature. The "cool box tun" is a common mash tun, but the problem with them for small batches is, that due to their size, the grain bed easily becomes too shallow. I'd recommend you read through John Palmer's How To Brew, or similar text, just to make it clear what you're trying to achieve before you start buying anything and constructing.

Dennis
 
i've been looking around the house and I've found a ball valve, a big tub of misc plumbing attachments, lots of 15mm copper pipe and a big roll of insulation, so all I need for my mash tun is two 10l buckets and a flange, which I might be able to make in the workshop. Grains and hops aren't nearly as pricey as I expected either! I'm thinking for my first brew 1kg of marris otter, mash with 2.5l of water for 1 hour at 66, batch sparge with 2.5l more at 70, then boil will be 4g cascade at 60, 4g at 30, 4g at 15 and 8g at flameout, sound good? Or maybe cut back on the hops early in the boil?
 
I'm no expert, but sounds reasonable. With only pale malt, you will need to make sure your water is either soft, or adjust the pH so you don't extract tannins. I'm not terribly hot on all the water chemistry stuff, but ask on here, someone can help you with that, plus they can look over you recipe.

Dennis
 

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