Sediment post boil

[TomR]

Hi I hope this isn't a dumb question. After I've cooled the wort down I drop it into the fermenting vessel there's always around two litres of sediment type liquid in the bottom. I always tip this down the sink. Is this the right thing to do or should I add it all to the fermenter?
Ta

 

[BeerCat]

You don't want it in your fermenter but i collect mine for starters. I pour it all in a jug then leave it to settle in the fridge. Then i decant the clear wort and boil again for a starter.

 

[TomR]

Ooh good idea

 

[MyQul]

You don't want it in your fermenter but i collect mine for starters. I pour it all in a jug then leave it to settle in the fridge. Then i decant the clear wort and boil again for a starter.

Do you sanitise the jug or anthing? As Ive read that once wort sours/gets infected boiling it after, wont do any good

 

[BeerCat]

Do you sanitise the jug or anthing? As Ive read that once wort sours/gets infected boiling it after, wont do any good

No i don't sanitise it. I have left in in the fridge for days before and it didn't sour. Its set to 0c in there though.

 

[MyQul]

No i don't sanitise it. I have left in in the fridge for days before and it didn't sour. Its set to 0c in there though.

Yeah, I kinda assumed the fridge would be doing what is supposed to do so the wort wouldnt go off. I like this idea of collecting the sediment and letting it settle out for use as starters. I usually have some left after no chilling and decanting the wort off the protien matter/sediment. It'll save me making 'real wort starters' if theirs enough of it

 

[BeerCat]

Yeah, I kinda assumed the fridge would be doing what is supposed to do so the wort wouldnt go off. I like this idea of collecting the sediment and letting it settle out for use as starters. I usually have some left after no chilling and decanting the wort off the protien matter/sediment. It'll save me making 'real wort starters' if theirs enough of it

I have not used spray malt for a starter for ages. If its over 1040 i dilute it. The funny thing is you will get a really clear starter as its been boiled twice. Even the kveik was as clear as a whistle in the flask.

 

[MyQul]

I have not used spray malt for a starter for ages. If its over 1040 i dilute it. The funny thing is you will get a really clear starter as its been boiled twice. Even the kveik was as clear as a whistle in the flask.

Thats an interesting little effect. Will deffo give this a go next brewday

 

[matt76]

In my case, literally everything post boil goes into my FV - but, as I've posted recently, this means i typically end up with 2-3L trub in the FV.

It doesn't seem to affect the beer as far as i can tell, but it annoys me I'm losing this much beer to trub - so in this sense i think you could add it to the fermenter as it doesn't do any harm (in my experience).

However, i really like beercat's idea to repurpose this "waste"and use it for a starter

 

[ACBEV]

Everything from my boiler goes into my FV also. I've never had any adverse effects on my beer.

 

[Petrolhead]

Again a vote for everything into the FV. Last brew was hop heavy and following advice on this forum I took it out of the brewfridge 10 days ago and left it out in temps about 5-10 degrees. Today I fid my first keg and it was my most clear brew with a very firm inch of compacted sludge.

Sludge had a very clear line between crud and yeast so my first harvest is underway.

All my previous beers have also been clear but some I had to wait longer to clear.

 

[MyQul]

For those saying they've never had any adverse effects when adding the trub, I heartily agree (even though I separate the trub from the wort prior to pitching). Firstly trub is supposed to be quite nutritious for the yeast. Secondly, as petrolhead mentions and a Brulosophy experiment seemed to indicate, adding the trub seems to lead to a clearer beer. My theory is that in a similar way to the way finings like irish moss work, everything in the beer gets attracted to the trub and seeing as its quite lumpy and heavy, everything gets dragged down to the bottom of the FV to create nice clear beer

 

[Mavroz]

Usually after cooling I filter my post boil wort into the FV. This removes a lot of the trub. Have always done this since extract / partial mash brewing. Mainly to remove hops which I have always been under the impression have to be removed before fermentation??
Next brew I do, I will put everything into the FV and see what it finishes like.

 

[cushyno]

Years ago I was sold a 'jelly bag' from my HBS for straining country wines through to remove the likes of fruit or vegetable matter after a few days of steeping. It's like a mini biab bag.

I always strain the wort through this and while it does take a while for the last of the wort to drain through with all the trub in there, it comes out fairly clear.
Just boil the bag up before each use.

 

[The Baron]

I use the no chill method as I think does MyQul and what I do is I leave the wort to cool in the Ace for until it reaches about 70c. This allows the trub to settle and then transfer to the FV ( I do not like boiling wort in a plastic FV incase it leaches anything out) on transfer I get very little trub and only get about a litre left behind then chill in the Fv to pitch temp. Previous to using the Ace I had a Peco and did BIAB and sometimes I had 3 litres of trub having said that I did not do no chill then but it did not effect my beer in anyway although contrary to what a lot of people say (urban myth dispelled)I get excellent clarity with no chill and it is so easy and saves over 30 mins on a brew day. If you have not tried it give it a go it is like garlic bread in my mind its the future for time strapped brewers

 

[TomR]

In that case I'll pour the lot in my fv next time and see what happened. I don't like pouring up to 2 litres out