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er, kind of, sort of yes and no.. tho thing is regulators we use are a pita to set at lower pressures and i for one am doubtful about the accuracy of some regs, many will creep up over the set pressure over the first 24-48hours too. thing is we tend to use way shorter beerlines between or kegs n taps than pubs n bars do, also we tend to not go in for specific anti fobbing devices as we can kill those two birds withe one stone by useing thin 3/16" microline between keg and tap which as a very rough guestimate can reduce pressure from a keg along its length at circa 1-2psi per foot length. your goal at the tap point is to have a nominal pressure gradient (difference), as if too great the instant change will probably stimulate fobbing or a foam out!
so use such things as the kegging charts or calculators as a guide, but keep an eye on how things are going and draw a sample every now and again..
bearing mind leave well alone to sit for at least a week to drop out the remaining sediment which you can suck up n out as the first filthy 1/2 pint and discard..
If you over condition, simply vent shake and repeat (bearing in mind you will have disturbed any remaining sediment again..) and if over conditioned then you can up the gas a bit more too..
My own set up without temp control over the kegs is a but more by the seat of my pants as the conditions in my keg store change with the seasons
but from what ive read those using temp control can set optimum serving temp/pressure for the style required and the beer should be able to drink at optimum condition after a week - 10 days. and since you want to wait a similar length of time for the beer to clear (at least..)
Depending on the brew you may also want to let it mature somewhat when talking about beers without a heavy dry hop addition a good rule of thumb is to let a beer mature for a week for every 10 gravity points of the OG
