Pre built pid temperature controller

[Hoddy]

Current progress lol
View attachment 15246 View attachment 15247

I assume the red crimp is attached to terminal 3?

Have you got red trousers on????

www.lookatmyfuckingredtrousers.blogspot.com

 

[Alside101]

No its on 5 i think

 

[Alside101]

There red shorts haha

 

[foxbat]

@Hoddy is right. Red on 3. The online PDF for the inkbird has a wiring diagram that helpfully has the colour of the wires on it.

 

[Alside101]

@Hoddy is right. Red on 3. The online PDF for the inkbird has a wiring diagram that helpfully has the colour of the wires on it.

Any chance you have a link to it?

 

[BeerCat]

I got a big carried away with mine, and ended up with this:-

View attachment 14771

That's for single vessel BIAB control, with a recirculation pump though. I use the power regulation during mashing set to 60% power and it keeps my temps spot on. The SSR button allows me to remove the SSR completely from the circuit during the boil (it cuts the 12v signal from the PID to the SSR) so that when I use the boil switch, with the mash switch in the off position, I can still use the PID to monitor temps. I can do the same with the mash switch, boil switch and cut off switch all turned off too whilst cooling so I can monitor the temps then using the PID. Overkill for sure, but I did say I got carried away.

Now when I built this I hadn't yet started on my medication for my tremor, and I still managed to do it just fine. The biggest tip I'll give you is, if you don't have one already then get yourself a coping/fret saw with a 360 degree blade, and a pack of diamond coated files, for cutting the holes. I made the hole for the PID with a drill and a jig saw and you can see it's a right mess. I got a fret saw part way through and the holes got much cleaner. Oh, and using a nice big project box helps tons too, gives you room for all those cables hidden away in there...

I've done 2 brews with it so far, and it's worked a treat.

Even if you end up buying a pre-wired one, you may want to have a go at building one too as a project. Quite a few project logs on here you can follow where folks have done so.

I am definitely envious of the amount of stuff you have on there.

 

[AdeDunn]

Any chance you have a link to it?

He's right, just double checked. The one on the website is a different version, V1 is a clearer version.

You're unlikely to need to connect any lines together unless you have an unusual sensor. Relevant section is 4.1.3 for RTD sensor.

I am definitely envious of the amount of stuff you have on there.

Thanks bud, works really nicely, just wish I had sockets on there rather than dangling cables. lol

 

[Alside101]

He's right, just double checked. The one on the website is a different version, V1 is a clearer version.

You're unlikely to need to connect any lines together unless you have an unusual sensor. Relevant section is 4.1.3 for RTD sensor.




Thanks bud, works really nicely, just wish I had sockets on there rather than dangling cables. lol

So is it red on 3 and blue on 4 and 5?
Thanks for the link

 

[Hoddy]

So is it red on 3 and blue on 4 and 5?
Thanks for the link

Ding, ding, ding, correct!!!

 

[Hoddy]

@Hoddy is right. Red on 3. The online PDF for the inkbird has a wiring diagram that helpfully has the colour of the wires on it.

I might have done this once or twice before........

 

[Alside101]

Ding, ding, ding, correct!!!

I have no idea what im doing lol baby steps

 

[Dale Kirkwood]

For accurate mash temperature control by PID you need one of these. Make sure you get the PT100 option with the 25A SSR. Avoid K-type thermocouples. K-types have an enormous temperature range more suited to industrial furnace controls than brewing but their real problem is that the standard accuracy of the probe is +/- 2.2C and the ADC in the measurement unit will contribute its own error meaning you could be up to 3C out on what it's telling you versus the true reading. PT100/thermistor technologies should be less than 1C out at the temperatures we care about.

This is a great thread folks I've been on looking as I want to build my own system (HLT and then a combined mash tun/boil kettle) so have obviously been looking for how to control the heat of the mash and boil, however, I didn't have a clue what PID sensors were, STCs, PT100s etc. This has cleared it up.

I'm thinking of using this foxbat with a thermowall (haven't decided which yet) for the mash tun/boil kettle - has anyone else used it yet?

I'm not sure about the HLT though might just get something cheap and simple for it.

 

[Alside101]

I have a peco boiler for the boil kettle. A converted cooler for a mash tun and a stainless steel wort chiller as a herms coil sat in my hlt witch is the boiler from my t500 still plugged in to my pid for temp control. I am planning to use it on my next brew so i will report back

 

[Bigcol49]

I'm not sure about the HLT though might just get something cheap and simple for it.

Hi!
I have another PID/SSR combo to control the HLT - £20 is very reasonable and once you've worked out the wiring for the first unit, it's easy to replicate for the second unit.
This is my control box:

 

[Alside101]

Hi!
I have another PID/SSR combo to control the HLT - £20 is very reasonable and once you've worked out the wiring for the first unit, it's easy to replicate for the second unit.
This is my control box:
View attachment 15895

I aim to build somet like this when iv got all the parts. I have 2 pids and sensors

 

[Bigcol49]

I aim to build somet like this when iv got all the parts. I have 2 pids and sensors

Hi!
If you need advice/help let me know. I've got plenty of wire, connectors etc left over after the build.

 

[Alside101]

Where did you get the project box from and thanks

 

[Bigcol49]

Where did you get the project box from and thanks

Hi!
City Electrical Factors in Donny.
There's bound to be a branch near you.

 

[BeerCat]

This is a great thread folks I've been on looking as I want to build my own system (HLT and then a combined mash tun/boil kettle) so have obviously been looking for how to control the heat of the mash and boil, however, I didn't have a clue what PID sensors were, STCs, PT100s etc. This has cleared it up.

I'm thinking of using this foxbat with a thermowall (haven't decided which yet) for the mash tun/boil kettle - has anyone else used it yet?

I'm not sure about the HLT though might just get something cheap and simple for it.

I found when i put a pt100 sensor inside a thermowell the reading was off. In the end i removed the thermowell and installed the sensor directly into the boiler.

 

[LeeH]

Yes, I found the same even when using thermo paste. It does get to the correct temp but just not quick enough.

Stainless probes direct in the fluid are much faster to respond. I use a thermowell in the FV with the crappy plastic probe (what ever that is. NTC/PTC probably.)