Pre built pid temperature controller

[Alside101]

Does anyone know of a company that sells these pre built or could anyone build me 1 if so how much would i be looking at.

Tia Al

 

[britton]

Inkbird ITC-308 Digital Temperature Controller.

 

[Alside101]

I have 1 but iv read that a pid would be better

 

[britton]

Inkbird also do a full PID controller, what are you trying to achieve?

 

[Alfie]

Mangrove Jack do with sockets for heating and cooling plus probe.


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[Drunkula]

Mangrove Jack do with sockets for heating and cooling plus probe.

Is it a PID?

 

[Alfie]

Is it a PID?

Just a temp controller i think. Based on the SCT-1000 thingy.


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[Dutto]

The cheapest temperature controller that actually does the job (when properly set up) is the Inkbird STC 1000 here ...

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0799GZB4G/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

There are dozens of "How to Do It" videos on "You Tube" like this one ...



... and the finished article can be a thing of beauty or something truly horrible like my own attempt below!

The main thing being that the STC 1000 has the internal options capable of controlling a brew to within 0.2*C ... :thumb:

... and TBH if you need better control than that you are more "Research Scientist" than "Home Brewer"!

 

[Drunkula]

... and TBH if you need better control than that you are more "Research Scientist" than "Home Brewer"!

Not if you're controlling something like a mash tun, herms or even trying to sous vide with a slow cooker. STCs are crap in those circumstances and massively overshoot. They're great for brew fridges but crap for some things.

 

[Alside101]

Its for my herms setup im building

 

[foxbat]

For accurate mash temperature control by PID you need one of these. Make sure you get the PT100 option with the 25A SSR. Avoid K-type thermocouples. K-types have an enormous temperature range more suited to industrial furnace controls than brewing but their real problem is that the standard accuracy of the probe is +/- 2.2C and the ADC in the measurement unit will contribute its own error meaning you could be up to 3C out on what it's telling you versus the true reading. PT100/thermistor technologies should be less than 1C out at the temperatures we care about.

 

[BeerCat]

The wiring is actually pretty simple. I made one and have very little electrical experience. I think there is a thread on here somewhere with a wiring diagram.
@foxbat I just received a new NPT probe which only has 2 of the 4 pins connected instead of the usual 3. Beware they seem to be a "new model"! I have already been through 2 as the leads keep going so going to switch to auber next.

 

[foxbat]

The wiring is actually pretty simple. I made one and have very little electrical experience. I think there is a thread on here somewhere with a wiring diagram.
@foxbat I just received a new NPT probe which only has 2 of the 4 pins connected instead of the usual 3. Beware they seem to be a "new model"! I have already been through 2 as the leads keep going so going to switch to auber next.

I can recommend thermosense. I've got one of their 200mm probes. They might cost you a little less than Auber. You will need to crimp your own connectors to the bare wires though.

 

[Alfie]

Is it a PID?

Here it is and Beer Hawk do it for around 30 quid:-

https://mangrovejacks.com/products/dual-temperature-controller


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[Dutto]

.......... STCs are crap in those circumstances and massively overshoot. .......

I worked with Controllers for over 35 years.

This included everything from the old pneumatic models all the way up to the Honeywell TDC 2000 Process Computer; and a badly set up PID will be as crap as a badly set up STC!

BTW here's my Sous Vide set up using my "Strike, Mash and Rinse" water heater.

I use is one of these "Heat Only" Inkbirds ...

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B018K2DKYW/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

... and it does the job just as well as my STC 1000 did. :thumb:

 

[Chippy_Tea]

Dual relay output to connect in a position with refrigeration and heating systems at the same time - £29:99 free postage - :thumba:



https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Inkbird-...417858?hash=item33b0bb9e42:g:XgQAAOSwwBha4tcQ

Certificate: FCC Certification, CE Certification, Rosh

Plug-and-play design, easy to use;

Dual relay output to connect in a position with refrigeration and heating systems at the same time; Support reading with Celsius or Fahrenheit unit; Maximum Output Power: 2200W (220V); Temperature calibration; Compressor delay protection for compressor control High and low temperature alarms are present; Heating / Cooling differential function can be set to protect separately for cooling and heating for temperature control of violent change.

Support reading with Celsius or Fahrenheit unit

Compressor delay protection for compressor control.

Dual relay output to connect in a position with refrigeration and heating systems at the same time.

Temperature Control output max. 10A, 100V ~ 240V AC.

 

[AdeDunn]

Trust me when I say, if I can wire one then you can too! As others have said, it's super simple to wire up a PID and SSR, just make sure you get a mains voltage one (like the VH). If you use the push in terminal connectors (aka chocolate blocks) it makes it super super easy. Buy some hot condition kettle leads and use the wire out of them and you know they won't burn out from the draw. 1amp fuse in a holder to protect the PID, 15 amp fuse in the circuit to the element in another holder to protect the rest of the circuit. Mount your SSR physically well away from any switches you're going to be touching just to be on the safe side. Oh, and make sure you fit a heat sink onto it.

As to ready built, sure if you want to spend a few hundred pounds......They don't come cheap.

 

[Alside101]

Iv got a inkbird 308 but iv been told a pid would be better at the job

 

[Alside101]

Trust me when I say, if I can wire one then you can too! As others have said, it's super simple to wire up a PID and SSR, just make sure you get a mains voltage one (like the VH). If you use the push in terminal connectors (aka chocolate blocks) it makes it super super easy. Buy some hot condition kettle leads and use the wire out of them and you know they won't burn out from the draw. 1amp fuse in a holder to protect the PID, 15 amp fuse in the circuit to the element in another holder to protect the rest of the circuit. Mount your SSR physically well away from any switches you're going to be touching just to be on the safe side. Oh, and make sure you fit a heat sink onto it.

As to ready built, sure if you want to spend a few hundred pounds......They don't come cheap.

I do fancy having a crack at wiring 1 up. I might do just that then compare it to the 308

 

[Alside101]

Id like somet like this