Plastic Barrels again!

[aamcle]

Before someone says Corny Keg I have two I use them but this time I had to use my two 12litre 2" cap barrels as it was very cold and it's quicker to use a barrel.

One of them has leaked again, I could really do with an alternative to Corny kegs or plastic barrels.

I bottle over 90% of what I brew and only use kegs/barrels when I'm pushed for time or cold... Especially cold

I also prefer the 10-12litre size as they are much easier to handle and move.


Any suggestions other than buying thermals?

Atb. Aamcle

 

[Cheshire Cat]

Get a 10 litre metal keg.

 

[aamcle]

I'd still need gas, the other complications and a big bundle of cash but it would work.

 

[Cheshire Cat]

I’ve a spare 25 litre plastic barrel and will be in Newton on 21/3 if you want it free.

 

[aamcle]

Thanks Cat that's a generous offer but I want 1/2 size the big barrels are to heavy for me.

:) :)

 

[Buffers brewery]

If the barrels aren't split it's probably....no it will be the HB valve rubbers leaking. Can be fixed (cheap) or replaced with a corny gas post and safety valve (more expensive).

 

[aamcle]

Both have have posts fitted and the one that leaked as a 3d printed collar that prevents the square section O ring slipping out as the tap screws in. The collar dose not prevent the tap tightening down of the ring.

 

[Buffers brewery]

Both have have posts fitted and the one that leaked as a 3d printed collar that prevents the square section O ring slipping out as the tap screws in. The collar dose not prevent the tap tightening down of the ring.

Do you know where the leak is? Be interested to see a pic of your cap and tap arrangement.

 

[Cheshire Cat]

You never said whether the leak was beer or CO2.

 

[aamcle]

Both, beer 1st and Co2 when I moved the barrel and touched the post. I have changed the cap seal to an upgraded version.

I need to reseal the post I had to use an O ring when I 1st attached the post to the cap. Unfortunately I don't have any food grade silicon mastic which I my preferred sealent. Used properly it doesn't leak an allows you to really tighten the post down.

I'll get a picture later :)

 

[Sym]

I have 4 large PB's and one small one. I have never had a leak of beer (yet) in 2 years of brewing. I have had gas leaks due to the o ring on the cap, and now have a number of techniques to ensure it is sealed correctly (generally don't overtighten) . I have never had a leak from the post. Interested to see your pictures.

 

[aamcle]

Sym, what types of beer are you brewing? Presumably nothing highly carbonated.

pics later

 

[Sym]

Sym, what types of beer are you brewing? Presumably nothing highly carbonated.

pics later

IPA's APA's Pale ales and english bitters mainly. yeah nothing massively carbonated - generally 90 to 140 gms of sugar to the barrel with 19 to 23l in

 

[aamcle]

Here we go pictures :-

 

[Buffers brewery]

Nice approach. I can see what you mean about rocking the post causes a leak. Removing the o ring and using sealant should fix that as you say. Alternatively you could try countersinking the hole to contain the o ring so you can tighten it right down.
I like your seal collar but still needs the tap to be screwed in tightly to compress the seal enough to make it leak proof. I'm assuming you've used PTFE tape on the thread as well or potable sealant?
Your approach should work

 

[aamcle]

Sadly I don't have any food grade silicon mastic at the moment and I don't want to buy a whole tube and only use a very few ml.
As you can see in the picture there is a circular collar and a clamp, the collar stops the O ring slipping out sideways but is able to move back against the clamp as the O ring is compressed. The clamp is only there to stop the collar going back too far and allowing the O ring to pop out.

 

[RoomWithABrew]

Have to say I am struggling to interpret the second picture.

But that said it looks to me that the gas post isn't quite assembled right.

I've just been and checked the assembly of a couple of them, liquid and a gas across the lid of a fermentasaurus.

The metal ring needs to be tight against the post as seen on an unattached one. Then looking at second picture the metal ring has the O ring squashed very flat onto the plastic. In my picture it sits on a formed plastic part that the lid of the fermentasaurus has it's not a flat washer as well.
You will see from the inside picture that the post is held in position by the nut on the inside. There is no washer or Oring on the inside.

Could be your issue.

 

[Buffers brewery]

it looks to me that the gas post isn't quite assembled right

Good spot!

 

[aamcle]

The O ring is trapped between the top face of the plastic lid and the bottom of the flange section of the
post.

There is a washer as well as the nut on the inside of the cap to spread the load across more of the relatively thin plastic the cap is made of. There is no thickened section on the cap that is intended for mounting a post as there is on the fermentasaus lid.

I really need some more silicon seallent. :)

 

[RoomWithABrew]

I still stand with

But that said it looks to me that the gas post isn't quite assembled right.

The metal ring needs to be tight against the post as seen on an unattached one. Then looking at second picture the metal ring has the O ring squashed very flat onto the plastic. In my picture it sits on a formed plastic part that the lid of the fermentasaurus has it's not a flat washer as well.
You will see from the inside picture that the post is held in position by the nut on the inside. There is no washer or Oring on the inside.

Could be your issue.
View attachment 63961

As I have said above you don't have the gas post assembled correctly the round steel bit needs to be tight against the post and then that whole assembly has the oring on and is tight against your lid. With nut on the other side of your lid.
You don't need silicone sealant or " thickened section on the cap that is intended for mounting a post as there is on the fermentasaus lid. "

A picture of gas post fitted onto the top of the lesser spotted non leaking king keg lid which is thin and doesn't have any extra sections. I've used a flat nitrile washer instead of the oring as the hole was from the previous PRV built into the cap and was near the edge and the oring was slipping out.
I'm using the gas post so I can use a spunding valve or pressure gauge and still topping up with the hambledon bard cylinder or sodastream ( for old times sake ).

PS I have noted with my photo on the fermentasaurus that the oring looks pretty knackered and is due a change.