PID Build Complete (almost) with a few Pics.

[chastuck]

+1 for that...im guessing you would just another in/out and join the wires on the inside to the SSR ?

Here's how you can run two elements with two inputs and one PID. The inputs for safety need to be from two separate domestic circuits (Earth wires not shown in circuit diagram for clarity). Each SSR is a 25 amp one.

And a view inside:

 

[joe1002]

I've just been reading this post to look for a suitable pid, however the link for the one that you used has expired. DO you possibly have a fresh link?

I bought this one http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Professio...ial_Automation_Control_ET&hash=item338681ffc4

There is one without a relay here: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-Profe...ial_Automation_Control_ET&hash=item4d141e9144

I have not assembled mine yet so can't comment on the actual unit but others are happy with it. If you have the spare cash I believe Auber PID's are the way to go (the sestos is a Chinese rip) :thumb:

 

[chastuck]

...............
I have not assembled mine yet so can't comment on the actual unit but others are happy with it. If you have the spare cash I believe Auber PID's are the way to go (the sestos is a Chinese rip) :thumb:

I agree with your Auberins recommendation. I always used their PIDs and SSRs, with no problems, then briefly switched to a Sestos combination. The Sestos PID setup proved very unreliable and the SSR burnt out very quickly. I replaced it all with Auberins stuff and never looked back. In spite of the extra cost and longer delivery times from the States, I now only use PIDs and SSRs from Auberins.

 

[chastuck]

Evening All,

First off, thanks for everyone’s input on this; as always, much appreciated. :thumb:

Finally put this together at the weekend; it took a while but, to honest, once I had all the bits& bobs in front of me it was pretty straightforward.

One thing lacking at the moment is a 3 amp fuse in line with the PID itself which I’ll attend to this week.

After letting the PID autotune with around 35 litres of water at 85 degrees it seems to hold the temp around +/- 0.2 degrees of target which, for my sparging purposes is, I hope, accurate enough. I might have a tinker with the parameters to see if I can get closer; just for fun mind…..

So the weekend beckons, AG2 and, maybe, Worthington White Shield. I’m sure building the PID won’t help me make better beer but HLT temp is now just one less thing to worry about plus a real sense of satisfaction having put something like this together.

Thanks again for all the help. :thumb:

Andy

Great setup there Andy. You've done really well. Don't forget though that due to the SSR leakage current the output will always be live, even when the SSR is not triggered. You must disconnect your control box from the mains or pull the plug from the element to kill the power inside the pot - especially important if you are thinking of cleaning the pot out with the control box still connected.

 

[AndyBWood]

Hi,

I've just typed in a quick search on ebay for 'SSR-40 DA' and it brings back loads of hits.

Suitable heat sinks pop up too which you'll need as well.

Cheers and good luck.

A

 

[AndyBWood]

Chastuck,

Thanks for the advice; appreciated.

Unfortunately, due to space all of my gear has to be mobile but this does mean that everything gets plugged in at set up and then unplugged when I'm finished / cleaning. So, a pain but hopeful safe.

I'll keep you point in mind, however, and make sure I don't become a statistic :electric:

A