No chill

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Bigd2657

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Hi all,

I am going to have a brew day on Sunday as my 1st bias, I have decided I am going to complete it by not chilling and leaving it overnight.

My question is can anybody Reccomend this method who uses it regular.

My brew is going to be a 23litre Smash.

Look forward to your comments

Cheers
 
Myqul can help you there amongst a few others but think he transfers it to a chill cube? Which I guess lessons the chances of infection
 
If your just going to NC for just 24-48 hours before pitching, here's what I do:

I dont use a cube (big plastic jerrycan that can hold 23L), I use a FV. Once the boil has finished, I put a sieve on top of the FV. Then using a jug I pass the wort through the seive into the FV to seive the hops out. I then use cling film to cover the top of the FV. I use three strips. Two crosswise, overlapping, then one across these two at 90 degree. The steam from the wort will sanitise the underside of the clingfilm. And that's it. You could use the lid of course but I like cling film (fnarr fnarr :Wink:)

24-48 hours later when the wort is at room temp you can then pitch your yeast.
 
I’ve done No Chill a few times. I usually just transfer to FV whilst still hot and stick the lid on.

My new chiller is super efficient (from 80C to 16C in 20mins) so I won’t be bothering with NC again.
 
Hi myqul

Thanks very much for this info, have you ever had any infections, with doing this idea.
 
I used to no chill with the cube on the left,I even made a beer at our caravan and took the wort home 3 days later
I have since made a chiller and it chills in about 15 mins,transfer ,pitch yeast,done
 

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I've done no chills with just a fermenter with an airlock and it's worked fine. Now do it in a pressure barrel and the lid collapses in a bit as it cools but it sorts itself out again when you open the top and give it a while. I did try and account for the pressure difference by hitting the barrel with co2 before it had cooled but the bottom of the barrel bulged out because it was so soft from the scalding wort. Just had to release the pressure and squash it down with my boot.
 
Hi myqul

Thanks very much for this info, have you ever had any infections, with doing this idea.

Nope. Been doing this since I went AG about 4-5 years ago.

The only problems Ive ever had was I forgot about the wort/life got in the way a couple of times and I left it for about 5-6 days and the wort had a weird smell. I still chucked the yeast in anyway and it fermented out fine
 
That's a super set up PM's some good pictures.
I'm looking forward to my brew day.
But I'm going to take MYQuls way of doing it and cling filming it.
 
I do like MyQul I let the wort cool to below 80C then run it through my bottom tap on my ace and use my hop spider to catch most of the crap put on the top (everything has been starsanned ) and leave to cool to pitch temp, never had a problem but like you was worried first time and no extra bitterness that I can detect as only leave the hops in for 30 mins after flameout.
Its the future no more cooling for me
 
I forgot to mention, I also use a big elastic band to hold the cling film on because initially the steam pushed the clingfilm up so you get a big concave dome. Then once the wort begins to cool the contracting wort sucks the cling film towards it so it goes convex. You'd be surprised how much it does both
 
The only thing to add to the conversation is that no chill may not be the best technique if you like super hoppy beers. Because you aren't cooling the wort quickly at the end of the boil any late boil or flame out hops will continue to add bitterness and lose aroma until the wort cools. You can add the aroma later with dry hops but make sure you don't get too much bitterness from any late hop additions.
 
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