No chill

[Leard]

I'm looking for some thoughts on the 'no chill' method. I'm trying to be more green, and a lot of water is wasted using a coil. I'm still considering using it, but just to get to 80 for the whirlpool.

Most people seem to use these jerry can/plastic container things to no chill in. However, what would be wrong with just transferring to my fermentation bin (one of those 25L plastic ones), airlocking it, and then leaving it overnight? Then I can pitch straight into it. It would save a step and I can't see any downside.

Thoughts?

 

[The Baron]

Just use the FV thats what I do.
I whirlpool at@80c then transfer to my FV put the lid on with a clean towel over where the airlock goes and allow to cool in there.
Do not put the airlock in until its cooled as it may contract and suck in the water from it

 

[Rwilts]

As @The Baron says no issue with using fermenter, plenty of people on here have said they do it with no Ill effects. I have always been a no chill all grain brewer and have used jerry cans since day one , but that's just personal choice.

I don't think it's advisable to transfer hot wort to a fermizilla or the like as they are not very tolerant of high temps. Traditional bucket FV and 80° should be fine ( I used to pour boiling water into them in the kit days)

 

[Rodcx500z]

Yep as above, i cover the hole with tin foil until it has cooled down a far bit

 

[jof]

I put it in the FV too.
I put airlock in, but I don't add any liquid to the airlock until I add the yeast the next morning when it's cool enough.

 

[Leard]

Thanks all, sounds like it's completely fine to do. Think I'll try no chill for my next brew. I use an old fridge to keep my ferm temperature stable as well, so that'll help to bring the temperature down faster.

 

[Twostage]

I no-chill in the boiler and then transfer to the FV the next day when its cool. That way you aren't handling hot liquid and avoiding hot side aeration.

If I'm doing a small batch and mashing/boiling in a stockpot I don't transfer, I use the stockpot as the FV too and just pitch the yeast and stick some cling film over the top.

 

[MrRook]

Once the boil is done I seal the lid to the pot with plastic wrap and put it down in my cellar overnight; works great.

 

[chthon]

I use my boiling pot as fermenter. After the boil I put it in the kitchen sink, add cool water and ice to drop the temperature beneath 80° C, then I put an airtight bag over the lid and put it somewhere else to let it cool further.

I ferment with the trub, but I do transfer after four or five days.

 

[Twostage]

I ferment with the trub, but I do transfer after four or five days.

Why do you do that ? To fight off the 'it can't be that easy' demons ?

 

[MashBag]

What's wrong with immediately after the boil, put the lid back on and runaway. Simples. Come back tomorrow and pitch.

No transfer. No cubes, no syphon, no pump. No whirlpool. No nothing.
The end.

 

[MashBag]

I put it in the FV too.
I put airlock in, but I don't add any liquid to the airlock until I add the yeast the next morning when it's cool enough.

WTF is going to happen if you add the liquid too soon?

 

[MashBag]

I use my boiling pot as fermenter. After the boil I put it in the kitchen sink, add cool water and ice to drop the temperature beneath 80° C, then I put an airtight bag over the lid and put it somewhere else to let it cool further.

I ferment with the trub, but I do transfer after four or five days.

So do I. But when I transfer, it is to bottles.

 

[chthon]

Why do you do that ? To fight off the 'it can't be that easy' demons ?

Let's say that I like to ferment out and condition my beer in an airtight container, free from further contact with trub. I also got a scale advantage, I ferment at most 10l. This makes it easy to move things.

 

[Nicks90]

I used to no chill and just dumped it straight from the kettle in to the fv. Added advantage that putting nearly boiling wort in to the bucket acts as a secondary sanitary step in case any lurgies got missed in the first clean.

Only reason I stopped is due to ibu calc for very hoppy beers, you really need to cool it quickly or that last 5 min addition ends up over bittering as it creeps down to below 80c. I could have used a hop spider and taken the hops out at 0min, but I am lazy and that just adds to cleaning after brew day

 

[foxy]

Due to the hot temperature during summer brewing, it becomes difficult to get the temperature of the wort below 30C sometimes more. If it going to be a cool night I spray the rim of the lid with sanitiser, put the lid on spray again cover it with cling wrap and transfer the following day.
If it's going to be a hot night I transfer it into a fermenter and cool it in the fridge to pitching temperature then transfer it into a second fermenter for fermenting.
As for the OP I would be taking it down to 70-75C to be sure there will be no more SMM breaking down into DMS.
I really can't see any point in wanting to ferment over the top of trub. One of the reasons for the boil is the precipitation and coagulation of proteins which we don't want carried over into the fermenter.

 

[aolcot]

I'm similar in wanting to be green and economical with water usage throughout the process. My current setup is that I have a counterflow chiller which I use conservatively to just make sure i get somewhere around 40 as it goes into the FV. I'm not aiming for pitching temps out of the CF as I just let the FV take over and cool the rest of the way down.

I capture all the hot water output from the CF which I then use half for cleaning, and the other half for rinsing. I figure this is quite a good balance of time/water usage.

 

[MashBag]

Due to the hot temperature during summer brewing, it becomes difficult to get the temperature of the wort below 30C sometimes more.

Hot nights = point a usb fan at the kettle

 

[MashBag]

I capture all the hot water output from the CF which I then use half for cleaning, and the other half for rinsing. I figure this is quite a good balance of time/water usage.

Green brewing is my specialist subject, some might call it idleness But if you are still washing up after boil you are going to have to try harder. I don't.

 

[bobukbrewer]

Mashbag - fans do not cool air - they just direct it - so the turbulence at the outside surface of a tiny part of the kettle will have a tiny effect on the temperature of the liquid inside the kettle. I try to avoid brewing in July and August because of the time taken to reach yeast pitch temperature.