Newbie with advanced questions

[ipbr21054]

Two days ago i started to make 40 pints from a kit.
Just need some answers / pointers if i may.

1,Once the gravity is constant for 3 days i have read its ok to then move to the secondary bin or can i just leave it for two weeks in the current bin,my goal is to have very little yeast residue in the bottle once completed as to not have a cloudy pint.
2,Once in the secondary bin do i need to move it to a cooler room ?
3,Once in the secondary bin how long should i leave it for so it will clear,i am worried that not knowing this answer would cause all the existing yeast to then fall to the bottom of the bin thus nothing for when i bottle resulting in a flat beer or will there allways be an amount of yeast ?
After the advised duration "above answer" in the secondary bin i will then move back into my first bin "which has a tap" to be mixed with the priming sugar & then i will bottle but do i then leave it in the same cool place as before and if so for how long.
I am not in a real rush to drink it but would like to have the answers so i can try and follow the same procedure each time.
I did look for a guide on this but could not find anything.
Thanks

 

[pittsy]

hi , you are best to leave it in the 1st bin for around 10 days then check your gravity then leave it till the next day and check again only after you have got a stable reading is it done , now you move it to a 2nd bin this will help with getting rid of most of the yeast and **** etc and this time in a cooler place and leave it for around 2 to 3 days this will help with all the yeast falling to the bottom and again you will see a sediment line on your bin , then when ready batch prime your next bin and transfer brew to it (always avoid splashes every time) then bottle straight away . Now you have bottled keep in a warm place for 2 weeks then move to a cool area so brew will condition from anywhere from 4 weeks to 6 months , after 4 ish weeks sample a brew then leave alone if poss next week sample brew and so on the longer the better (within reason ) :

 

[ipbr21054]

I have made 40 pints.
How much priming sugar do i use ?

By leaving it in the bin for 3 days will that remove most of the yeast so i end up with a clear pint.

I assume that some yeast will be left to mix with the priming sugar but not enough to leave a thick layer in the bottle ?

 

[soupdragon]

If this is your 1st brew you might be best just leaving it in your primary for 2 weeks before bottling directly from there with a syphon. Priming each bottle with 1/2 to 1 level teaspoon.
It's more messing about than bulk priming but until you've got a few brews under your belt, I'd avoid racking from bucket to bucket. There's less chance of getting your beer infected.
Once you are producing beer that you're happy with then by all means transfer to secondary then again to a bottling bucket.
Keep it simple to start with then change things as your confidence grows.
Best of luck :thumb:

Cheers Tom

 

[ipbr21054]

I did make some a fair while back and have all the equiptment.
I do tend to clean everything with the white powder.
I think i will continue as i started out.
Thanks for the reply anyway.

 

[soupdragon]

As you've made stuff before then you really shouln't have any problems :)

As you might have gathered from my 1st reply, I leave my brews undisturbed in primary for 2 weeks ( unless I'm dry hopping ) then keg 20l in mini kegs then bottle the last few litres. There's usually only a thin layer of yeast in the bottles but is enough to condition the beer.
Get another brew on as soon as you've bottled this one too :

Cheers Tom

 

[ipbr21054]

Just an update.
Started a beer kit 16th April SG 1.040
Hydrometer reading 26th April 1.014
Hydrometer reading 27th April 1.014

I had to call youngs bitter so i thought i would ask them roughly what the FG should be and i was told around 1.006
I told them my readings and i was told it was possibly stuck ? :hmm:
The temp is 18/22 degrees and pretty stable.
Have not opened the lid as samples drawn off from tap.

Tomorrow i am to take another reading BUT if it is 1.014 should i move to my secondary for 2/3 days as hopefully finished OR should i pop the lid off to see if any bubbles are still rising ?

Your expert advice is now required if i may.

 

[Dave1970]

Popping the lid is unlikely to do any harm but it's also unlikely you'll see any bubbles as your ferment is definitely slowed right down even if it's not finished. A better indicator that it's done could be that it's starting to clear although your hydrometer is still your most reliable guide

 

[ipbr21054]

So tomorrow if its still 1.014 carry on and transfer to the secondary for 2/3 days then bottle.

Is that what you are advising ?
Thanks for the reply.

 

[orlando]

If the SG is still 1.014 and the temp. is closer to 22 than 18 you have a choice, you could leave it for a few more days and check again (no harm will come), if the temp is low then try raising it and see if this makes a difference. Moving to a secondary is going to remove it from the majority of the yeast so slow fermentation even more, so if you are doing this to try to get it lower all you do is reduce the chances and risk infection. If you are convinced it's finished and unlikely to go lower then I would rack to a bottling bucket, prime with a little less sugar syrup than usual to make alowances for the higher FG and in order to ensure complete clarity I would fine with a liquid gelatine like Kwik Clear and bottle straight away. Everything will drop bright in 24 hours and the yeast left will carbonate the beer. Leave for 2 weeks as has already been suggested in a warmish (18) room then put somewhere cooler for another couple of weeks. From there on :drink: Bet it's good :party:

 

[ipbr21054]

At present the temp is 22 but falls to around 18 in the evening 10pm.
I will take another reading Tomorrow & sunday this then should advise me i assume.
I just thought by putting it into a seconday would clear it up a little better but if its done & leaving in the FV for a couple of days i suppose the yeast is starting to fall allready.
The bin it is in has the tap,my secondary does not have a tap.
I will have to transfer to the secondary bin,wash the original bin then transfer it back,this way i can use my bottling stick.
I think i need to fit another tap to my secondary bin.

 

[ipbr21054]

I have shown a photo below for you to look at.
I will take 2 more readings over the weekend.

 

[orlando]

When you say clear up I'm assuming you are talking about the yeast cleaning up "off" flavours that are produced in the early stages of fermentation. Given the time this has had there is a good chance it has already done this. I don't bother with taps on FV's as I find using a bottling stick is so much easier. I also use an Autosyphon attached to it and this gives me great control over bottling and kegging without having to suck on anything and the potential to transfer bacteria, I know it can be done using 2 tubes but for me this just makes things over complicated.

As you have a bottling stick your half way there. I agree about leaving it till Sunday it won't do any harm and with the temps they way they are you should know by then if it is ready by getting the same readings over the weekend.

 

[ipbr21054]

When i mentioned clear up i mean i was thinking that it would clear a little more,yeast falling to the bottom.
My bottling stick fits onto the tap & not into the brew.

What do you think about the photo,does it tell you anything ?

 

[calumscott]

Photo? Looks good to me!

I would expect, if it has finished, to see a lot less foam on the top, particularly with the youngs kits. Mine only had tiny little patches left when it had finished.

The youngs ones do go to 1.006.

Have you calibrated your hydrometer? Pop it in room temp clean tap water and you should read 1.000.

 

[Duncs]

What do you think about the photo,does it tell you anything ?

It tells me that the white balance in your camera is way off, I'm sure it's not supposed to look pink :lol:

 

[orlando]

I agree with calumscott, there is still some yeast activity and at 1.014 as long as the hydrometer is correct (do the test he suggested) bottling it as this stage is premature. Try again Sunday.

 

[ipbr21054]

With room temperature water the hydrometer is reading 1.004 not 1.000 as mentioned.
So my previous reading of 1.014 is realy 1.010 correct ?
If so when it reaches 1.002 this should be the FG as then the true reading would be 1.006 ?
But why two readings at 1.014 ?

Sorry for all the questions but learning all the way, and Calibrating a hydrometer is another new bit of advice.

 

[alanywiseman.]

If the gravity is no longer droping then the yeast has fermented all the fermentable sugars in your brew (assuming it is not to cold or got stuck but that usually happens at around 1.020).

What calum said is helpful but you need to know what your hydrometer is calabrated to and then test it in water that temperature. some are calabrated to 20 and some to 25 degrees i think. if your water is not at the correct temperature it will give an off reading. your hydrometer should say what it is calabrated to on it then test it in water at that temperature.

Dont get to hung up though in getting your brew to 1.006 as there a million factor that can affect what FG you get, even with a kit. Did you use sugar to make it up or DME?

 

[ipbr21054]

If this dont sound to stupid,i used water straight from the tap and took a reading 1.004
I then left the hydrometer in the water in the room where the FV is and the temp in this room is 20/22
I went shopping & took a reading when i got back,still 1.004
I used standard white sugar 1kg.
I will take another reading tomorrow & sunday.
I will also take note of the amount of foam on the top of the beer.