New arrival 12" 30cm long temperature sensor

[Inkbird]

Hi all, We have 12" 30cm temperature sensor coming now.

Anyone ordered inkbird ITC-1000/ITC-308/ITC-306T/ITC-310T/ITC-2000, and still want longer probe sensor for brewing, this 12" probe sensor is good for you.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01AWA2PW8


Here are some pictures which will guide you to connect your device. Hope these will help you.

 

[Wardy]

A much tidier way to do that would be to use 10 cm of 3mm heat shrink tubing, cut wires and strip back outer by 3 cm. Cut 1 cm off one of the inner cables then strip back to expose 5 mm of wire. strip back to expose of the other wire then repeat the process for the connector cable. Slide the shrink tubing onto the cable, match up the cables and solder the ends of each wire together to make a pair of linked wires. Slide the heat shrink tubing over the exposed wires and use a heat gun used for stripping paint to shrink the tube and seal the cable making it waterproof to IP66. Neat tidy job that maintains the professional look. Send me one and I'll do a video for you 😉

 

[Steved53]

An even tidier way would be for Inkbird to supply the controller with either a captive or a short trailing female socket, which would accept the plug from the 12" temperature sensor!

Oh! And as an aside, it would be really useful if Inkbird would supply their PID controller:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00ADEJVXK/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

with a temperature sensor that is stainless steel. I popped the sensor into a demijohn of water in the fridge (to reduce quick fluctuations), and within days the water started being stained with rust. Decided to take it out and put it inside an insulated pouch on the side of the fermenter, which actually worked better.

 

[Wardy]

The new one is supplied with a female socket on a lead. This is a method to modify the earlier models that have a short probe.

 

[Steved53]

The new one is supplied with a female socket on a lead. This is a method to modify the earlier models that have a short probe.

I agree that it looks that way Wardy, but have you popped one of those controllers open? I did, and whilst I'm no electronics expert, I am reasonably used to using a soldering iron. I took the view that I would likely do some 'unplanned soldering or desoldering' whilst attempting to remove those two wires. Maybe I'm just a wus!

 

[Cqr]

I love the look off that censor

 

[Wardy]

I agree that it looks that way Wardy, but have you popped one of those controllers open? I did, and whilst I'm no electronics expert, I am reasonably used to using a soldering iron. I took the view that I would likely do some 'unplanned soldering or desoldering' whilst attempting to remove those two wires. Maybe I'm just a wus!

I agree. I've not got one but opening one up might invalidate the warranty. I would put a gamble on it not breaking down and solder the female jack directly to the board. I'm an engineer and did six years soldering from fine pitch quad ICs to through hole wires but regardless of my qualifications if the sensor goes faulty and sent back under guarantee it would be rejected due to opening it up not to mention changing wires on the board.

 

[Inkbird]

Hi, this sensor is a stainless one, no worry! We tested before.

An even tidier way would be for Inkbird to supply the controller with either a captive or a short trailing female socket, which would accept the plug from the 12" temperature sensor!

Oh! And as an aside, it would be really useful if Inkbird would supply their PID controller:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00ADEJVXK/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

with a temperature sensor that is stainless steel. I popped the sensor into a demijohn of water in the fridge (to reduce quick fluctuations), and within days the water started being stained with rust. Decided to take it out and put it inside an insulated pouch on the side of the fermenter, which actually worked better.

 

[Dutto]

I use the Inkird "Easy BBQ" (aka "BBQ Go") to keep an eye on my mashing temperature.

It has the advantage of sending a signal to my phone and also sound an alarm if the temperature goes outside the desired Hi-Lo temperatures. (Today they will be set at 72 and 70 degrees.)

BTW, I've modified one of my probes by sealing the collar with a dab of silicone sealant. I don't submerge the probe completely in the mash water (I trap the wire with the Mash Tun lid when the collar on the probe is just clear of the water) and the silicone prevents any condensed water getting in and ruining the probe.

The photograph is of when I was testing the probe to make sure that the silicone sealant worked. It did ... :thumb:

... but I try not to tempt fate! :whistle: