Nannydog Brewery HERMS build

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rick_huggins

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Kineton, Warwickshire
I've decided to go down the HERMS route for my 100L build.
I've also got a fair few questions which I hope someone can shed some light on?

Do I need an insulated tun if I'm using Herms, do I need to pre-heat the tun, do I actually mash then re-circ or recirc for the full mash time

I've had a shifty through the boards and have came up with the following parts from Virtual Village for the control box side of things

PID
http://www.virtualvillage.co.uk/uni...perature-controller-oven-kiln-001480-138.html
Can this be programmed as a timer i.e 90 min recirc

SSR (40A)
http://www.virtualvillage.co.uk/40a-ssr-solid-state-relay-for-ac-devices-003602-009.html
What exactly is this for and what type of heat sink is recommended?

Probe (PT100)
http://www.virtualvillage.co.uk/pt100-type-thermocouple-probe-sensor-tip-measure-003820-034.html
Do I need two of these; i.e one for HLT one for MT and can the PID take 2 inputs? I want to replace my mashmaster bi-metalic thermometers with these; what fittings are required i.e threads?

http://www.virtualvillage.co.uk/right-angle-float-switch-liquid-water-level-sensor-009700-026.html
I plan on using an under back so that I'm not sucking from the MT and the pumping process will be automated by use of a float switch to turn the pump on/off so will need some sort of a relay.

Any glaring errors so far and any help graciously received

Cheers

Rick
 
rick_huggins said:
I've decided to go down the HERMS route for my 100L build.
I've also got a fair few questions which I hope someone can shed some light on?

good on you but remember you are not allowed to make anything with pictures


rick_huggins said:
Do I need an insulated tun if I'm using Herms, do I need to pre-heat the tun, do I actually mash then re-circ or recirc for the full mash time

If it is insulated it keeps heat better and so more controllable

rick_huggins said:
I've had a shifty through the boards and have came up with the following parts from Virtual Village for the control box side of things

PID
http://www.virtualvillage.co.uk/uni...perature-controller-oven-kiln-001480-138.html
Can this be programmed as a timer i.e 90 min recirc

No it can't be used as a timer just a temperature controller

rick_huggins said:
SSR (40A)
http://www.virtualvillage.co.uk/40a-ssr-solid-state-relay-for-ac-devices-003602-009.html
What exactly is this for and what type of heat sink is recommended?

I fitted mine to an aluminium case from maplins with some AS5 thermal compound, so did not use a heat sink.


rick_huggins said:
Probe (PT100)
http://www.virtualvillage.co.uk/pt100-type-thermocouple-probe-sensor-tip-measure-003820-034.html
Do I need two of these; i.e one for HLT one for MT and can the PID take 2 inputs? I want to replace my mashmaster bi-metalic thermometers with these; what fittings are required i.e threads?

there has been mentioned these are 5mm probes so you will need to find a fitting. I used a 1/4 npt tap to make fitting for my auber pt100s

rick_huggins said:
http://www.virtualvillage.co.uk/right-angle-float-switch-liquid-water-level-sensor-009700-026.html
I plan on using an under back so that I'm not sucking from the MT and the pumping process will be automated by use of a float switch to turn the pump on/off so will need some sort of a relay.

you will need a relay for a 240v pump. and I would be a little anxious about that float switch getting grain in it and sticking off or on and your wort going everywhere. Also you will need a DC power supply for the float swich

rick_huggins said:
Any glaring errors so far and any help graciously received

Cheers

Rick

nope just remember the camera!
 
rick_huggins said:
http://www.virtualvillage.co.uk/right-angle-float-switch-liquid-water-level-sensor-009700-026.html
I plan on using an under back so that I'm not sucking from the MT and the pumping process will be automated by use of a float switch to turn the pump on/off so will need some sort of a relay.
Rick, below is a link to the thread regarding my automatic underback. I decided to use different float switches that can switch 240V as i didn't want to put an addition power supply in my control box.
http://www.thehomebrewforum.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=23&t=6574
Mark
 
I bought 4 of those probes for my build, they did not work for me in any configuration. I asked Virtual Village to supply me with a datasheet and confirm that they were PT100 probes, they could not do either. They said that they didn't think they were PT100 probes, but instead 'PT100+' probes, and couldn't give me any info about them whatsoever. I asked them to remove the item until they knew what it was, but they haven't done so. They replaced them with some K type thermocouples, which work fine.
 
Got the kegs back from the welder and started fitting the ancillaries
4709032605_885d737b63_m.jpg
 
onelegout said:
I bought 4 of those probes for my build, they did not work for me in any configuration. I asked Virtual Village to supply me with a datasheet and confirm that they were PT100 probes, they could not do either. They said that they didn't think they were PT100 probes, but instead 'PT100+' probes, and couldn't give me any info about them whatsoever. I asked them to remove the item until they knew what it was, but they haven't done so. They replaced them with some K type thermocouples, which work fine.

I have one of these and it reads the same as my auber ones. I tested them all with a multimeter before wiring to check the cables.
 
Just a quick 'sorry' regarding my earlier comment about the PT100 probes. I've since found that my PID was faulty and with a new PID the probe works fine. Did you end up using that probe? If so, which fittings did you use, 'cause I can't find any info on the thread size!
 

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